www.iFourWinns.com

I have a 200ss with the upgraded stereo option. The Sony speakers sound pretty good, the Kicker amp is great....the sub...not so good. This is mostly due to the box/holder or whatever you want to call it, that comes from the factory. The 10" MTX marine sub basically did nothing. I went to Bestbuy and bought a 10" sealed box for $50, Bassworx SW10B -- http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/proddetai ... atid=20121

It fits perfectly into the factory sub location and sounds much better. Well worth the $50..............

good deal, just make sure that box is nowhere where any water can possibly get on it,,,cause if so, it will ruin your sound the minute that thing gets wet,,,i got a box but its not fabric on the outside, its sprayed with something so it wont get ruined at all if any water gets on it

Pics or description of the stock sub location please. I was going to build myself a box, but might go this route.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Nice looking enclosure. Looks like it was sprayed with gatorhyde. What's the mounting orientation for that enclosure, does the sub face forward and slightly up?

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

The one I had installed is cut then sprayed with Rhino liner inside and out. Mounted face down, and space about 2" off the deck with seaboard.

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I was thinking of doing the exact same thing, does the box need to be ported at all or just totally sealed?

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08 210 SS Sunset Orange 300 Horse MPI Bravo1
98 Dodge Ram 12 valve Cummins 425 RWHP

That all depends on the subwoofer. Many require a sealed enclosure, and the manufacturers recommend a specific volume, for example Polk Audio recommends a volume of .66 cubic feet for their 10" Momo sub (like the one txjole2 has). Smaller than ideal sealed enclosures can be stuffed to mimic a larger enclosure. Infinite baffle subwoofers are different, their design allows for installation in ported enclosures, or possibly unenclosed areas. As I understand the concept, there still has to be isolation betwee airspace at the front of the sub and the back, but the spring action created by a sealed enclosure is far less critical. I think Kicker makes a 10" infinite baffle sub. I've read that if you want a deep bass drum 'thump' with a lot of punch, you want to go with sealed enclosures.

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2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

I like how a sealed box sounds but different people like different things. Crutchfield has a pretty good write up of the difference.

Sealed box — A sealed box is an airtight enclosure housing your subwoofer. A sealed box is best for any music that demands tight, accurate bass. Expect flat response, deep bass extension, and excellent power handling. Since a sealed enclosure tends to require more power than a ported box, use an amplifier with ample wattage for optimum performance.

Ported box — A ported box uses a vent (called a port) which allows movement of air in and out of the enclosure chamber. This additional air movement reinforces low bass response. You get more output from a ported box than you would from a sealed box at any given level of amplifier output. Some people simply prefer the sound of ported boxes for rap, techno, or any hard-driving music because they play louder than comparable sealed boxes.

Bandpass box — A bandpass box is a special type of ported box designed for maximum slam. The woofer is mounted inside a dual-chambered box; the woofer fires from the sealed chamber into the ported chamber, and sound waves emerge from the ported side. Because the sound that comes out of the port is extra loud within a narrow frequency range, bandpass boxes are considered super efficient. Their aggressive sound is popular with many hip-hop, techno, and metal fans.

Free-air subwoofers — A free-air system consists of woofers mounted to a board attached to the rear deck or placed in the trunk against the rear seat. The trunk acts as the enclosure housing the subwoofer. Free-air systems save space and have flat frequency response. The woofer must be specifically designed for free-air use, and the trunk must be airtight for best results.

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2006 Four Winns horizon 200

Sealed = easy & great sound

ported = very complicated and requires exact tuning to sound better than a sealed.

free= super easy, less thump

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

the problem I'm having with mine (sony/kicker/mtx) factory upgrade system is the sub vibrates the living hell out of the back seat and sounds terrible when I turn it up. Some of it may be due to the crappy box, but most of it is probably location. I've tried seperating the seat bench from the seat box with a thin piece of soft plastic to dampen the vibration between the two, which helped some but still not working good enough for me. I'm going to next try moving my sub into the front of the ski locker. I have friend that did this on his crownline and it sounds unbeliveable in that location. I think it resonates throughout the boat very well in that location and no vibration from the ski locker door as long as you have the little rubber thingy's on the lip of the door.

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2008 H210SS VP 5.7 Gi/SX
2011 Ford F150 FX4 EB

I am hoping that one of you are the total guru on the sub topic. You seem to have much more inside info into the best practices for installation. So here is the issue with me . . .
I copied a couple members kits and got the 6 channel JL amp, 4@ 7.7" coaxial speakers (which by the way will fit in a H210 nicely - but only just, they couldn't be any bigger) now the sub issue has me hung up.
The 10" JL is an infinite baffle but is recommended to have a sealed enclosure (min 1.25 cu.ft. / optimum 2.0 cu.ft.) so here is my issue.
This thing weighs 12 lbs - I'm ed, so the idea of mounting in the kick area on the passenger side front seat turns me off - unsealed and I fear the 'glass is too thin to take the weight and thumpin.
I want to build a box under the rear bench in one of the side cubbies similar to factory (non destructive & no new holes) only the space in the left or right cubby (cooler in the middle) is 17"W x 15"D x 11"H so even if I build a box that just fits I will get 1.5 cu.ft. minus the volume from the material of the box and the sub itself. Thus it would be barely bigger than min. rec. with a bit of stuffing I think it would be close enough.
Problem is the sub would either face the inside front kicker panel of the bench (or forward) - the floor (like TXs noted above) or the factory seat cubby box walls (with not much more than an 1" clearance). Is this an issue?
Or perhaps could I cut an 8" hole in the starboard cubby walls (left or right not fore or aft) and fire it through the hole towards the void space between the side of the bench and the wall inside of the boat (where the side cubbies shelves are).
I just want to build the box and be done with it but the stereo gurus around here seem to agree that the enclosue is key. It will make or break a subs effect. Any Ideas? Love the ski locker spot but I don't think it will fit and I don't want to give up that storage anyway.

Impulse, I would bet if you look up the specs on the factory sub you would find you need a bigger box. I have seen pics of the factory sub and it doesn't look like it has any volume to it. The seat vibration could probably be fixed with a couple of those bungie loops they use on the canvas at the swim platform . . .

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Here is a pic of the factory sub I believe. I can't take credit for the pic I found it on another thread (here I believe) and kept it for brainstorming.
So, in this pic the box would fill the same cubby and the sub would fire through a hole cut in the side and pointed to the left? Can't fire it to the right and fill the bench because the middle cubby is where the cooler goes and thumpin on it would be soooo uncool.
Would this be a bad plan or does all the thump come from the cabinet - explains why volume is so important?

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2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

I don't have a 210 but I think you need to re-think putting that sub in the cockpit like others have. My 10 inch JL sub went where the factory puts them in the 260's which is to say its mounted on that "thin glass". But don't be fooled, that's some seriously strong stuff. If you pre-drill the holes and counter sink them its as sturdy as anything mounted in my boat. I run some serious amps it thumps like you would not believe without any unwanted vibration etc. It sounds perfect. I was told NOT to use any dynomat or anything to seal up the space. Let it be free air in that spot and you will not be disappointed. If you're still unsure of the durability mounting it there you could always cut a few small pieces of plywood, paint them and glue them behind where you will tape the screws threw. I didn't bother with that but would if a screw were to come loose.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1708

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Former owner of:
1996 Four Winns Horizon 200 5.8L VP
2006 Four Winns Horizon 260 8.1L VP
2007 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer

Current boat
2004 Sea Ray 290 Sun Sport Twin 350 Mags

Mine is an 8" thought it was a 10" then I got to looking and remember we couldnt fit the 10 and my stereo shop convinced me to go with the 8 so I could keep it all stealth, that was very important to me being I leave my boat on the water. I would go with 2 8's under the seat down firing. I have my stereo guy working on how to put 2 Wetsounds can in my boat without a tower. I love to challenge him.

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Oh and mine is vented out the front.


remember it is well established that direction of bass is not detected by the ear, you just need a vent so the rush of air wont "push" the seat up and rattle.

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