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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:40 am 
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Shark

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:13 pm
Posts: 104
Location: MASS
I am embarrassed to ask this question but where do you hang the fenders from on this boat. There is very little under the side walls to tie the end of the fenders to. Where do you all tie it to? thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:47 am 
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Snub Nose Commander

Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 10:15 pm
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Location: Topeka, KS
I had the same issue. I ended up going with a suction cup hangar that ties with straps to the bumper. The placement is then wherever you want it. I'm tempted to install eyelets to hang them from just don't have the desire to drill. The suction cups I bought from my dealer work pretty well, if you don't get them on perfect you turn your boat around to pick up the bumper if you forget to bring them in but what the hell they float.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:53 am 
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Shark

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:13 pm
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Location: MASS
Ok good i am glad i am not the only one challenged to find a place to hang them. You would think that Four Winns would design a hook under the walls for this. You would also think that they would place a shelf under the dashboard for additional storage like other boats. It is a good place to store the safty equipment etc. Those are my only two complaints about the boat which are minor. Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2007 9:41 pm
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Location: Waukesha, WI
I made loops in the fender ropes so I can just throw them over the rear and center cleats.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:58 pm
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Location: Winnipeg, MB
I've ended up tying off to the rear cleat, the bimini pivot point, and the loop at the windsheild where the bimini would clip to in the up position. I bought the fender locks (Perko) but haven't got the balls to drill into the side just yet... :oops:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:57 am 
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Shark

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:13 pm
Posts: 104
Location: MASS
That is an option. I would be nervous to drill any holes also. I didnt have a problem finding a place to tie the back fenders. I tied it to the wooden rail that the cables for the drive system sits. I am just having issues finding a place for the fenders more towards the front of the boat. I am going to go to home depot and see if i can find some kind of stick on hook but i am not sure if i will be able to find one strong enough. Even if it lasts only a month or two at a time it may be worth it and it would be hidden under the side walls.

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Last edited by gomes on Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:32 pm 
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Location: North Bay, Ontario Canada
We had the dealer add the hangers before we took delivery. That took all the pain out of drilling the holes.... :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:49 am
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Location: Eastern Canada
:idea: On mine there are a couple of "loops" anchored in the lower winshield frame (presumably for the bimini straps if there is no WB tower). Like the canvas snaps I expect they just have "anchors" that slide into the groove and then the loop screws to the anchors to secure it.
Surely they would be cheap and super easy to install so long as the fenders were not seeing extreme use - such as big time rafting. A little SS clip on the end of the rope and viola. They would totally blend in and could easily be removed later if so inclined.
The only issues I could forsee might be a struggle getting the cockpit canvas to snap over them or maybe the rope chafing on the hull above the rub but it maybe it wouldn't be a prob . . . :?:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Narwhal
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Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:29 am
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Location: Chicago, IL
Get to drilling! Use some 4200 on the threads and mating surfaces and you are good to go. What would you rather have a couple fender mount holes you drilled, or a big long dock scar? :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:52 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Well, be sure to relieve/bevel the edges of the holes. That will greatly reduce the chances of the gel coat cracking around them. Tape the locations with blue masking tape and drill through the tape. Make sure there's nothing behind the area! Start the drill very slowly and then increase to a moderate speed with light-moderate pressure. Yeah, 4200 all around. Drilling is daunting, but once you've done it you'll wonder why you were concerned. Before you know it, you'll be cutting entire sections of the boat's structure out without a second thought. And experimenting with all kinds of alternative paint finishes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 6:20 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
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Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
At the Baltimore Boat show I picked up a pair of these Sea Sucker suction cup mounts and they're great!
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I use them to hang a fender off the stern quarter on our 348. There's no convenient place to hang a fender from otherwise. I use one of their 'tentacles' to attach the fender to the cup:
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I had one stuck on there two weeks ago and forgot about it when coming back into the slip. The cups are strong but not when you squeeze an 8" fender between the boat and a piling while docking. Fortunately with the fender attached, it floats! A fellow slip holder motored over in his dinghy and grabbed it for me. Good thing, between the Taylor-Made fender and the cup I'd have been out a chunk of cash!

I also use them to scrub the waterline. I tie a line to each end (or one to the stern cleat) and then stick the other end to the hull. I can then pull along the rope, scrubbing the waterline. I've used a dual suction cup handle in the past and this is a big improvement. I can move along the line without having to reposition anything.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:16 pm 
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Narwhal
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Location: Chicago, IL
230 Mike wrote:
Well, be sure to relieve/bevel the edges of the holes. That will greatly reduce the chances of the gel coat cracking around them. Tape the locations with blue masking tape and drill through the tape. Make sure there's nothing behind the area! Start the drill very slowly and then increase to a moderate speed with light-moderate pressure. Yeah, 4200 all around. Drilling is daunting, but once you've done it you'll wonder why you were concerned. Before you know it, you'll be cutting entire sections of the boat's structure out without a second thought. And experimenting with all kinds of alternative paint finishes.


What he said. And don't forget the old gel coat fiberglass drilling trick of starting out with the drill in reverse. At least until you've gone all the way through the outer layer. (I've actually drilled all the way through in reverse). I can't explain it, but it makes a big difference, even with hole saws. Greatly reduces the chance of chipping or cracking.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:45 pm 
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Snub Nose Commander

Joined: Tue May 27, 2008 10:15 pm
Posts: 213
Location: Topeka, KS
And in the event you do cause cracking or problems with the gel coat, I'm with mike. I suggest painting it all black, cut the entire section with a sawzall and make it into a cup holder. You can also look at painting the bumpers black and possibly super glueing them onto the side of the boat. If all else fails, sell it as a "one of a kind" on Ebay.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 7:16 am 
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Shark

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:13 pm
Posts: 104
Location: MASS
LOL, Actually i was going to ask the dealer to paint it a flat black for me at my 20 hour servicing. I have a chain saw that will get rid of that annoying this they call the bow.

Thank you all for your help!!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 7:40 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 9:48 am
Posts: 7
Location: Moncks Corner, SC
I have a couple pair of these and they come in handy when I need a quick bumper and they fit perfect on my side windows.

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/368 ... ccessories

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