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 Post subject: Aluminum VS Magnesium
PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:20 am 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:04 pm
Posts: 130
Location: Shanty Bay, ON, Canada
I know I could likely search this, as I'm sure it's been on here before, but I guess I'm just lazy!

I run in 100% freshwater. I am no-where near salt. My dealer is telling me that my boat (all new boats) came with Aluminum Anodes on the drive, and that they are fine, but that Magnesium may be preferable in fresh water if I don't mind frequent replacement. I asked the question about 2 weeks ago after seeing a post on here about excess corrosion. I don't want that. I have none now, but want to take every measure to prevent it. I rarely leave the boat in the water for more than 3 days at a time, but I want to make sure I have it right.

So, aluminum or magnesium in fresh water?

Lastly, what do they cost, and are they simply just "bolt-ons"?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 11:51 am 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:22 pm
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Location: Stouffville Ontario
Don't leave the aluminum on fresh water requires magnesium. When the boats /stern drives are built the manufactures put on aluminum for brackish water to I think cover a large amount of the boat buyers usage. If you do a search of the for Drive corrosion you will find some interesting info. I spoke to my dealer about the same thing and they said a bulletin from VP has just come out. It outlines the issue of wrong anodes. My dealer is changing my to Magnesium and documenting the corrosion that is starting on my drive. I think the dealers are required to change the anodes for the area water type when the boat is PDI. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 10:41 am
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Location: Appleton, WI
Do you have the bulletin number? Is your dealer covering it under warranty? I already changed mine to Magnesium as I was getting some corrison on my outdrive. I think it cost me around $70.00 for both and yes they are a simple bolt-on item. Takes about ten minutes to swap both. My neighbor has a 2008 H180 and I am sure if they are under warrany he should get his changed.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:17 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:04 pm
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Location: Shanty Bay, ON, Canada
That's exactly what I thought. I live about 45 minutes north of "Burdette", and there isn't salt water for 1000 miles in any direction! Why would they not change them as a PDI, or why aren't they an option from factory? I know the factory has some ratio options to compensate for altitude, and yet they don't make every attempt to prevent corrosion? Seems really dumb to me.

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:26 pm 
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Location: Appleton, WI
jjker wrote:
That's exactly what I thought. I live about 45 minutes north of "Burdette", and there isn't salt water for 1000 miles in any direction! Why would they not change them as a PDI, or why aren't they an option from factory? I know the factory has some ratio options to compensate for altitude, and yet they don't make every attempt to prevent corrosion? Seems really dumb to me.

Thanks.

I'm not sure how far away the ocean is from me, but at least 1000 miles as well. The original amulinum anodes on my baot were badly corrded and I have some corrison on my lower unit. I think I cought it in time before it got to bad and I was able to clean up most of it. Still have some spots though which irratates me that they were not changed when the boat was new to prevent a stupid problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:39 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:04 pm
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Location: Shanty Bay, ON, Canada
Exactly. Or at least they could have mentioned it to us. For $50 or whatever, who wouldn't do it? I have no corrosion, I think because I take it out of the water a lot, but I would be snapping if I did. It won't go in the water this year without magnesium.

I plan on kicking the dealer in the shins over this one...

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 12:54 pm 
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Location: Appleton, WI
I think the reason mine got so bad is the previous owner left it in the water all season.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:17 pm 
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230 Mike
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Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Fresh=Mag
Salt=Zinc
Aluminum=just fine for the dealers who can't be bothered to educate their buyers as to the importance of using the right ones.

IMNSHO.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:30 pm 
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All Night Long
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Location: Lake Washington, Seattle, WA
I moored our H240 in freshwater all season long (pulled it out twice during the summer to clean the hull). Early April to late October.

My 5.7 GXI duprop had aluminum anodes. I did not have one spec of corrosion on the drive. The aluminum anodes showed very little sign of activity as well.

I would say - it depends greatly on the water conditions in which you boat.

In Seattle, aluminum is fine for freshwater. That may not be the case in other parts of North America.

Ask your fellow boaters and local shops where you boat.

No - they would not be covered under warranty. No - there will never be a recall.

Volvo ships aluminum as it is considered the 'all around' solution. Good for salt. Good for fresh. *Note - not GREAT for either.

On the 318, however, I have aluminum and will probably stay with aluminum since I boat in Fresh, salt, and brackish (mouth of rivers, locks, etc).

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:41 pm 
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Go with a set of Magnesium...cheap insurance. They are very easy to swap out.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 1:49 pm 
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268 Vista

Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 9:49 am
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Location: West Michigan
07H200SS wrote:
I think the reason mine got so bad is the previous owner left it in the water all season.


Mag on our 268. Boat only in fresh water. Boat is in the water for 6 months per year. Still in good shape, now starting season #9. I repainted the Outdrive last season, no corrosion to speak of, just paint needed.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:56 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:22 pm
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Location: Stouffville Ontario
I do not have a bulletin number, I know that I can get one either. When I spoke to my dealer they had no problems changing as warranty or good will (not sure). I will be taking the boat in for a few things in the next couple of weeks so time will tell. The corrosion on my drive is minimal but I want it document for future. Even if the boat was in the water for a few months I don’t think it should have any corrosion being an 2007.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:03 pm 
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Andrew...if you slipped your boat was it in a marina with a lot of sailboats? I know that can be an issue around the Great Lakes. Sailboats are horrible on powerboats outdrives if they are not protected properly. I can't remember the exact reason...but they put out a lot of current that goes right to your drive.

A few summers ago we were in a marina with a lot of them. I had one on each side of me actually. I had a new set of Magnesium anodes eaten up in one summer. But my drive still looked perfect so they did their job.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:19 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:22 pm
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Location: Stouffville Ontario
I bought the boat with very low hours last Aug. The first owner I believe docked it at his cottage all summer.I am sure it was in the water for the hole season. He opted out on the factory trailer and had his local marina winterize and store the boat. When I bought the boat I didn't have a trailer for about a month and the boat was in the water. Where I dock there is no hydro. I have heard about the stray currents I had not heard about sailboats. Most of the boats in our park are similar size to mine or small fishing boats.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
I think FW should ship boats with no anodes, with an enormous sign stuck to the windscreen for the dealer saying that they should fit appropriate anodes before handing the boat over to the customer, or else the dealer is responsible for any warrranty corrosion claims ! With another enormous label attached to the kill cord for the customer.

Graham


Last edited by Graham R on Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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