www.iFourWinns.com

Now that I am the proud owner of a Four winns, 2004 H230 VP5.7GI/SX, can you experienced owners give me a few tips on the must do maintenance tips?

Specifically the engine and drive? I am already planning to change the impeller but what else?

Can you lube the gimble bearing?, Are the U-joints greasable? How about the pivots on the drive?

Thanks
Chris

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2004 230 Horizon
5.7GI/SX
Towed by a 2000 Expedition

The one tip I tell every new boat owner I know, dont even turn the key over unless you have it in the water. Its no about over heating, its about no lube for the impeller. Oh and have fun with the boat, dont make getting on the water turn into a battle with wife and kids.

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Your u-joints are "permanently sealed" (meaning they'll eventually just fail and have to be replaced ). The gimbal bearing should be greased, you'll find the nipple on the starboard side of the transom shield, in a recess. Best to lube while the engine is running (the drive shafts/ujoints are turning anytime the engine is running, doesn't have to be in gear). Give it a few pumps, if you encounter resistance, STOP as you don't want to blow out the grease seal.

Engine oil change if it hasn't been done, drive lube change if it hasn't been done. Find your drive's dipstick and check the fluid level and condition, make sure it's not milky (evidence of water intrusion).

I'll give a big +1 to TX on keeping this fun for the family, as soon as you get stressed enough for it to turn into a battle you'll lose! But I'll disagree and say that to do any real maintenance you need to be able to put the boat on a set of muffs and run it in your driveway. Get GOOD muffs and have LOTS of water pressure running to them. Good muffs deliver water to both sides, not just one, and have big enough water passages to not restrict the flow to the drive.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Man, this is so true. Be smart and methodical, and not in a hurry. You will develop a routine that will speed you along as you go.

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Current Boat:
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer "Nauti Luvin'"

Previous Boats:
1999 298 Vista "Seas The Day"
2008 H200SS "Nauti Luv"
2006 Tahoe Q4

The std VP fresh water flush attachment on a 2004 engine ( on the stbd side) allows plenty of water through at idle (it also effectively backflushes the outdrive with any excess water the engine's raw water pump is not calling for.)

The U/Js cannot be not lubricated via zerks, or the UK name "grease nipples" (unlike earlier ones). If they fail, VP will only sell you a complete drive shaft (a lot moe expensive and involved to fit than just the U/Js as you might imagine). The U/js are not actualy staked in like on automotive propshafts, so if you can find the right type, they are actually replaceable. They are NOT the same as the earlier ones with the zerks, being retained by internal circlips in the yokes not external ones on the bearing cases. After 5 years use, I wonder if it's worth removing mine and manually regreasing/ reassembling them, but it runs the risk of cracking a bearing housing!

Graham

Thanks guys. Drive lube was changed last fall and is still clear and full. The engine oil looks perfectly clean. I will probably change the oil anyway since I don't know what is in there.

It's actually been the wife who has been pushing for a bigger boat for the past few years. I was actually happy with having no payments on the old boat. I am pretty excited about this one though. Plenty of room for my 2 and 5 year old to move around. It's definitly a family activity here...

Launching and loading in no prblem for us either. It's very low stress. I don't know why there is so much drama at the boat ramps but it does not come from me. Boating is a relaxing activity for us not a stressfull one

Should I have the hose on before or after I start the engine when connected directly to the engine mounted flusher? I know My seadoo engine will fill with water unless it is running first...

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2004 230 Horizon
5.7GI/SX
Towed by a 2000 Expedition

I missed one thing; I remove and lubricate the pivots ( for up / down ) every year, but it's not in the manuals's maintenance schedule. The pivots for steering left/ right were done last year, because the drive was very squeaky when turned from side to side ; very obvious and embarrassing in the marina at low speeds! It turned out ther were too many shims used on the lower pivot and it was too tight. I probally wont have to do those again.

Graham

Have water on FULL, BEFORE starting the engine!

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

The best advice I have ever read on this site.

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Jeff
2006 H240 6.2 MX 320HP B3
La Habra, California

+1 to that Jeff...

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

If you go over to the I/O forum at iboats.com I think you can download a Volvo maintenance manual (probably you can even from the Volvo website) that will list all the things that have to be done. If you follow that you can't go far wrong, but it's important to know when you might be over your head and need a pro to help out. I have followed the OMC maintenance schedule for the 7 years we have this boat and it's worked out well, I have not had that many troubles with it in view of its age, and salt water use. I do all the winterizing tasks in the fall and then in the spring, I go back and check everything, re-mount the drive, do a tune up and then it's ready to go.
I/Os are a lot of work relative to outboards but on the other hand the engines are simpler than any modern outboard, so if there is a problem most marine mechanics can work on them. Modern outboards need the manufacturers' software in order to trouble shoot and shops that are not authorized dealers may not have access to this information.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Don't trust just looking at the clarity of the oil on the dipstick on the Volvo 5.7L --- The dipstick does not go into the pan/block/crankcase as you would normally expect -- Look at where it goes --- it goes into the side of the oil drain plug.
No oil flows there so the oil may look brand new -- but is not ---

I did this for a season until I discovered the issue - I could not understand why the oil still looked brand new -- When I changed the oil -- which you have to Vaccuum out through the dipstick -- I discover how dark and dirty the oil really was -

Good luck with your purchase and may you have as many years of great boating as we have had.

PS -- grease the trailer bearings also -- if the boat is on a trailer --- that should be a fairly high priority too

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DaleG -- West Palm Beach FL
2003 240Horizon -- 5.7Gi -Duoprop