www.iFourWinns.com

K, sorry gents - I know this topic has been discussed but I have never come across it specifically related to the Volvo drive. I want to make the move to add a transom tilt switch but with the limited access in the 210 with the 5.7 and Captains Call I am not so inclined to drape myself over backwards and upside down with the engine in my spine pulling apart wiring looms to source out wires for the same.
Has anyone added one of these remote switches on a 210 with an SX drive that can confirm the wiring harness has a plug dangling in the engine room somewhere for this switch for an '08 or older? In other words can I just make a hole and plug it in as some Merc owners seem to have done?
I am fairly confident the FW engine bay wiring Harnesses are different from Merc to Volvo (or aren't they?)

_________________
2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

The Merc switch will work fine on your Volvo, I added it to mine. Get the one with the round plugs.

Here it is...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QUICKSIL ... enameZWD1V

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

That would be kind of handy to have - if you do it post up some pictures

My '07 200 harness does have wires with a plug end hanging off for a tilt/trim remote. Before you go contort yourself looking for it, I suggest you visit the wiring diagrams in the back of your owners manual to identify the color codes of the wires. Mine was tied off to the engine compartment 'roof' in back of the engine towards the port side. This is on my list for upgrades this season, so post pics, and good luck!

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

I am about done polishing my boat, I will take some up close pics here in a few and post them. VERY easy mod, and well worth it.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Pics as promised....

Here's the outside view from standing on the swim platform.


Looking up from the engine at the inside of the switch.


Close up of the connections, nice plug and play.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

Thanks much all. FC - really appreciate the effort thank-you. For the sake of clarification in the second pic I see the 3 bullet connections off the switch ( PWR , Trim Up & Trim Down I expect) - So these are from the switch to a jumper cable that is included with the switch? The jumper has the OMC (?) round connection on the other end and this simply plugs into the FW harness (the third and fouth photos)?
I'm just going to go ahead and order one, although I certainly do not have the access that you do in that monster (jealous). I'll let you all know how I make out with a pic or two in the 210 for those that are also planning to go ahead with it . . . if I don't get stuck in there.

_________________
2008 Four Winns 210 5.7 GI/SX
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Crew
1966 Fed-Up Wife

Correct. The switch comes with this....



The switch only has a 6", if that, of wiring attached to it. The cable it includes has three bullet connectors at one end, that plug into the back of the switch. The other end is the two round connectors. You just trace the wires from your trim pump, and unplug the connectors, and plug in the switch to both sides. Piece of cake.

FYI---Head to Lowe's and buy some SS hardware. It comes with screws, but it isn't that hard to through bolt it. I used 2"
10-24 SS bolts, washers, and locknuts.

When I drilled through the gelcoat, I first marked all the holes, and then taped it off with the blue painters tape. Start drilling backwards with the hole saw, to avoid cracking the gel. I a big plastic bag down in the engine compartment to catch any shavings or dust that went down there. With the last boat I had my wife holding the bag...you don't want that stuff to get inside your bilge pump.

Now if only I didn't have to take my cover off and get into my boat to turn on my battery switch for this to work, I'd use it all the time and store it with my drive down.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

I thought the whole idea was so that you could operate your drive from the ground? What good is it that you have to get into your boat to turn on the battery? I think I would be looking for a way to use a direct bettery lead and then through the switch to pwer the pump relay. I will have to pull out my schematics and see if I can come out with something. this is something i would like to do to my currrent boat or any future ones.

_________________
Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

It is. I put it on my boat before we found out that the CO detector drains the battery down.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

FC, sounds like you need to re-think how your co2 detector is wired up. Maybe wire it so it's only on when the ignition is on? Or, if you are worried about other potential sources of co2, stove maybe, or gen set? Maybe wire it so it's on when the key is on or in the accy position.

_________________
2007 Horizon 200
4.3L GXi/ SX 225 HP

Chuck the 12V CO detector away and fit one with it's own 9V battery; The batteries last at least 12 months continuous use. No false alarms in the middle of the night, no warm up period.

Graham

Not a bad idea Graham. Would it fit in the same mounting area as the 12V one?

Not sure I'm willing to go through all that work Jim...we aren't keeping this boat for more than a year or two more at most.

_________________
2007 358 T-5.7GXi IB
Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225

They tend to ba a litle bit bigger and round, depends on the make, but still fit in the same area as the original.

Graham