www.iFourWinns.com

I need some help. I bought my boat in November '09 with 39 hours on it. It was a demo boat, so I'm fairly certain it was not broken in properly. I'm also uncertain whether or not the oil was ever changed, so I would like to start the season with a fresh oil change. Here are my questions:

1) Do I have to use Volvo Oil?

2) If no to #1, what would be my best alternative? I have a 5.7 liter.

Also, if I assume my engine was not broken in properly, are there any other areas I should check and/or replace fluids?

Any, and all help is appreciated.

Thanks

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

You don't need to use volvo oil. A lot of guys will vote for royal purple. That's what I used this last go round, but it is a it more expensive IMO. Check your manual to see what is called out and pick up what you would like. Also, pick up a Moeller fluid extractor to suck your oil out. Don't forget to change your oil filter while you're at it. Some other items to check off the top of my head, replace the fuel filter, impeller, lower unit oil, check bellows, etc. I'm sure some others will chime in with more that was just a few items I could think of quickly. Pick up a Seloc (or similar) manual for you boat to assist in DIY projects. You may want to check your owner's manual for what is your upcoming service for the recommended ours (or annual, monthly, etc) and perform all of those services. That will get you to a starting point for your service history going forward. I hope that helps a little.

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'99 Horizon 200

Thanks for the post.

Specifically what SAE or viscosity do you use?

Synthetic or Mineral?

I don't recall ever seeing Royal Purple sold at the typical places (Walmart, Meijer, etc) I buy oil for my cars. So where do you get it?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, but I want to get it right the first time.

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

SAE 30W synthetic

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Alec

2006 Horizon 190
VP 4.3GL/SX, Sunsport

Nothing but Volvo straight 30W synthetic for me. It's a once per year expense, I don't understand trying to save $10 on it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I have used the volvo synthetic oils on bot hof my boats. Buy a vaccum oil extractor it will make life easier for you on the oil change, unless you have a quick drain system. Not sure if volvo uses the quick drain like merc does. You might want to change the gear lube aswell. Also I use the volvo line of oil for this aswell. Boat engine tend to run harder than you typical automotive engine so IMHO synthetic is best. Good luck there is lots of infdo on the forum for maintenance inspections

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

+1

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08 H260 VP 8.1Gi DP.....Previous
2013 Crownline E6 Merc 8.2MAG BIIIX, DTS/SC

Just some advice straight from Volvo.... we recently attended the Catalyst class and we had the privelage of having one of Volvo's Geniuses give the class. Volvo has recently changed their oil recommendations.... their "red" motors were always known for using synthetic oil... however the break in oil has always been their 30w mineral oil. They used to recommend for dealers to change the oil after 50 hours of break in, and last year went to 100... this year they are saying that people aren't breaking in their engines properly and should go 150 hours before switching over to synthetic.

We have been using synthetic for years without any problems but Volvo says it has had cases of oil consumption with some motors not properly broken in.....

Just a little advice, take it for what it is.... Most importantly just enjoy your new boat!!

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Bryan Mutter

http://www.twincitymarine.com
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http://www.youtube.com/user/twincitymarine
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Since it was a demo boat, you obviously bought it from a dealer. Why not ask them about their break-in practices?

The reason they recommend mineral oil instead of synthetic for break-in has to do with how it helps the rings seat. If you talk to the dealer and are not convinced about their break-in procedure, run mineral oil for the season, then switch to the synthetic next year.

You can get Royal Purple at the local car parts store. That's what I'm switching to at the end of this season when it's time. I've read good things about its use in boats. And, I'm a hot rod guy too, and high performance junkies love that oil. There must be a reason.

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2008 Four Winns F224
5.0 Volvo Penta
Towing with Audi Q7 4.2 V8

I was recently told the same thing by my dealer...Regular oil until you hit 100 hours, then move on to the Synthetic if you want to.

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Current Boat:
2004 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer "Nauti Luvin'"

Previous Boats:
1999 298 Vista "Seas The Day"
2008 H200SS "Nauti Luv"
2006 Tahoe Q4

That's interesting. Mine (red motor) came factory filled with 30W synthetic and the manual specifies nothing else. I did break it in properly.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

Thanks for all the great advice. I asked about the oil and they said just a quality 30W this time around and I bought a "marine grade" oil filter from them. I have 40 +/- hours on it now, so I will probably follow some of you and switch to full synthetic this fall once I have exceed 100 hours.

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

Well, I attempted my first oil change today on the boat. I bought a manual vaccum pump and was only able to get out 1 gallon (4 quarts) of oil and cannot seem to get the remaining quart or so out. It just keeps pumping air. What should I do? I hate to just call it good enough and put new oil in knowing there is still at least one more quart in there. Any advice here would be appreciated.

My oil filter was completely seized on and I had to take off the bracket that held the filter and work on it from home on my work bench. Two hours later, it finally came off. What a PITA.

One other question. As I started the boat and ran it to operating temp with the muffs on, I noticed that water was coming out of my bellows right at the clamps. Is that normal? My 3.0 didn't do that. I checked and tighted the hose clamps and it didn't make any difference. I did call my dealer and they said that is normal. Is it??

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

Ah, the yearly "what type oil" thread. I used to put 30w in my motoryacht's inboards, but my tech always told me to use synthetic or 25w-40 for my IO's because of viscosity breakdown due to extreme temperatures and load. Any thoughts on 25w-40 vs 30w? Can I really get away with 30w from the local auto store and avoid having to drive to West Marine each year?

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Current Boat: 2000 Four Winns 298 Vista
Previous Boat: 2000 Carver 406MY

I'd pretty much stay with what the manufacturer recommends...but in this case you have Merc and Volvo starting out with pretty much identical GM marine engines and Merc says to use 'their' 25/40 and Volvo says use 'their' syn 30....same engines inside...for warrantee issues I'd stick with what they say because it's a once a year issue...maybe twice if you are in the South or South West and can boat all year...

Having said that...on an older engine not in warrantee I'd use straight 30 for moderate temps and straight 40 if you are in a really hot region..that's what Merc used to recommend before the 25/40 stuff came out...

And I do think there is a difference using a heavy duty diesel rated oil that is also approved for gas engines...Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella...both are good for inboards and can be bought in both multi vis and straight weights...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II