www.iFourWinns.com

I had these two questions burried in the Oil Change topic and didn't get any opinions, so I'm starting a new string to hopefully get some good feedback. Thanks

I attempted my first oil change today on the boat. I bought a cheap manual vaccum pump and was only able to get out 1 gallon (4 quarts) of oil and cannot seem to get the remaining quart or so out. It just keeps pumping air. What should I do? I hate to just call it good enough and put new oil in knowing there is still at least one more quart in there. However, I only have 45 hours on the boat and it appears the oil was changed at least once, given there was a orange Fram oil filter installed. So the last quart of oil probably has only 25 hours or so. Any advice here would be appreciated.

One other question. As I started the boat and ran it to operating temp with the muffs on, I noticed that water was coming out of my bellows right at the clamps. Is that normal? My 3.0 didn't do that. I checked and tighted the hose clamps and it didn't make any difference. I did call my dealer and they said that is normal. Is it??

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

I don't have a Volvo but did you consider the amount of oil in the oil filter? I always go by the dipstick when refilling with oil because the manuals are not always exact on the amount. Plus I believe the boat must be in the water (at rest) to get the correct reading on the dip stick. Just a few thoughts!

You need to put the smallest hose on your vaccuum pump and shove it way down deep into the oil sump (through the dipstick casing). I get about 8 of the 9 quarts out of my big block. I assume that the motor was hot? You may also need to park the boat on a slant to have all the oil collected by the dipstick tube.

I have no experience with the bellows.

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Marc, Kathlin & Nathalie


'89 Chaparral Laser 32

'93 Vista 245, 5.8L w/ King Cobra

Former Boats
'01 H260, 7.4 VP Duoprop
'98 H200, 5.0 GL w/VP SX drive

Yes, I used the small tube and had the entire hose down the dip stick housing. I even sealed it up with electrical tape which initially worked ok. I didn't try parking on a slant though. But now my oil is cold and I cannot warm it back up. I think I might be stuck with a 80% oil change...

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http://youtu.be/-4ckF7u1iNk
2003 PowerQuest 260 Legend SX
2014 Lund WC 14

2007 H210 Volvo 5.7 Gi/SX (sold in 2012)
2007 H180 Volvo 3.0 (sold in 2009)

You could always change it again after an outing or two.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

haven't heard good things on fram oil filters. used to use them all the time but then met some people who wre really into cars and they say not to use them. isn't there about a quart in a filter?

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sundowner 235

Yes because you have a volvo drive it is normal for the water to come out right under the exhaust bellows on the out side of the boat right by the transom assembly at idle, Then if you rev the engine up a little bit you should see some water come out of the center of the prop area, Then the water will go right back to flowing under the bellows area again, Also you will notice the water temp under the bellows is warmer then the water garden hose while running on the muffs hooked up to the drive.


You will never be able to get all of the oil out of the engine oil pan, But the only thing you can do to get most of it out is to use the trailer jack to raise and lower the bow of the boat so you can try to get as much of the oil as you can within the area of where the oil dip stick goes through the oil pan, Normally you need the Engine about as level as you can get it though

I've always heard this, too, but have used Fram for several years now (I think I've bought maybe 3 or 4 non-Fram oil filters over the years) and have never had a problem. Has anyone ever actually produced some documented proof that their engine blew or didn't last as long because they used Fram instead of Wix, Napa, etc.?

Tim, I'm not picking on you here. I'm just asking if anyone has ever seen anything to actually back up this theory on Fram?

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Paul
2007 Four Winns Horizon 220
Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI w/ Bravo III Drive
2004 Ford Explorer Limited (V8-AWD)
Pomme de Terre Lake (Southwest Missouri)

If you are keeping your boat or any boat for some time buy a good pump. Cheap pumps only cause more problems then needed.

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Good point Paul. Several years ago, I actually cut some used oil filters open. I can say the Wix filter had more folds than the AC Delco one. Not too sure that makes it much "better" if you change them regularly but, I can see how it would filter longer without clogging.

Admittedly, I run Wix on everything I can.

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H210SS 6.2
F150 Platinum

IMO the whole oil filter argument is silly. People have cut open Frams and compared their construction with all the others, and they can point out better materials, workmanship, corners cut, etc. between some and some others. Now, whether anyone has ever had an engine problem because of those differences, I'd have to see the evidence to believe it.

Having said that, I'm a Mobil1 & Motorcraft filter guy myself, except for the boat. And people will make the same arguments about synthetic oil being a waste of money, and for many it probably is.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

no I havn't seen any dcumentation on the fram, I also used them for years. the car friends I met are picky about their cars, i am totally the opposite. A car to me is just a vehicle to get from point A to point B. They swear not to use them though. I'll have to ask themk to put up some proof. Seems like fram is a popular brand. on the other hand, friends are also mechanics.

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sundowner 235