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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:04 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:59 pm
Posts: 4
Hi,
I have a 2008 FW H180 4.3 merc. Looking for more power and speed. Any upgrades besides the prop?

Thank you


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 11:08 pm 
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230 Mike
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Joined: Mon May 15, 2006 7:59 pm
Posts: 5141
Location: Kansas City, Table Rock Lake
Thru-hull exhaust.







Just kidding.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:35 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:59 pm
Posts: 4
But seriousley


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:36 am
Posts: 678
Location: Northshore Boston & 1000 Islands
How fast would you like to go? and What are you planing to use the boat for.... FW/Stable vee is not know for speed...... Unlike automobiles boat performance would not change much with minor engine modification......

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 2:02 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
yeah, seriously.

We have plently of threads on propping for your application, just take a look see or we can get another started for ya!

The 4.3 is squeazing out about as much as possible. My last boat had the 4.3; I changed over the fuel system to the Gen III, which is now outdated, but was a big boost in fuel flow to the carb. I installed a set of split-fire plugs as well which likewise improved hole-shot.

IMO....Short of swapping heads and intake and spending a REDICULOUS amount of money on something you drive once a week 4 months of the year, and WOT for about 2 min each outting, you are pretty much there.

But thru hull exhaust would be cool on a 4.3.... kinda like all those tuners I laugh at spending gobs of money to make thier new car sound like an old VW! :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Goldfish

Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:56 pm
Posts: 39
Beside swapping props - which can have a substancial effect for better or for worst - you are not going make much of a difference by adding or swapping hardware on your engine because the limiting factor here is the hull, which is designed for stability and handling over speed. The same engine in a fast hull could give you an extra 15mph, while adding another 35hp to your current boat may only give 3-4 more mph at WOT

The real meaningfull performance tweaks can be fairly boring:
- Keep your hull clean
- Keep your filters clean and your engine tuned up
- Use a GPS speedo to find the optimal trim angle that mazimizes you speed at a given RPM without porpoising
- Get rid of the bimini whenever you dont plan on using it
- Get rid of any unecessary weight, especially at the back of he boat.
- On my previous boat I could get an extra 2-3 mph top speed by keeping the bow cover on (I had twist studs at the front for safety) Thats worth a try.
- On a 18' boat weight distribution has a huge influence on hole shot, simply asking someone to sit in front can make a big difference


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:02 am
Posts: 665
Location: Tampa, Florida
Stainless Prop to me was the best mod for speed.

Weight is always going to be an issue, but like the others said, its not like a car that you put a new chip and exhaust and coil overs to lower and tighten the suspension.

"thu hull exhaust with Folger can sized tips" :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 12:02 pm
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Location: Dallas TEXAS
Being all I know is you have a 4.3 I can give you a few ideas that will cost way more then the gain will be worth, but hey its only money.

header
hotter ignition
bore it
polished intake
pop-up pistons
hotter head
re-gear the lower unit
buy a performance boat to tow it
re fiberglass the hull for a deadrise
drop a V-8 in it
re-jet carb
open exhaust
diet
sand hull

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:20 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 7:48 am
Posts: 71
Location: Kingston Ontario
Txjole2 wrote:
Being all I know is you have a 4.3 I can give you a few ideas that will cost way more then the gain will be worth, but hey its only money.

header
hotter ignition
bore it
polished intake
pop-up pistons
hotter head
re-gear the lower unit
buy a performance boat to tow it
re fiberglass the hull for a deadrise
drop a V-8 in it
re-jet carb
open exhaust
diet
sand hull


Don't forget the nitrous

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:31 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
Aquadisiac wrote:
Don't forget the nitrous


I only recommend nitrous in a boat on two occasions.....
1) really obnoxious tubers
2) difficulty getting the boat on the trailer

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Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:04 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:22 pm
Posts: 136
Location: Denver, Colorado
Quote:
My issue is with 190 hp and being new I thought I would get more than 45 mph out of the boat with me and a half tank of fuel. Is this normal? I bought the boat new at sea level and am operating it in the mountains at 3,000 feet. When I first bought it I was hitting the governer and now I am not. Is prop the best or should I have the carb or something adjusted for the elev.? If I do play with props and want top speed is their a difference with steel or stainless? I know stainless lasts much longer but very pricey! Any help on these high elevation issues would be great.


i have an 01 190 horizon with the 5.0GL, i'm in colorado so mostly boating at 5000+ feet. i have a 19in prop on her and my norm topped out with a V8 is 45ish depending on load, weight, fuel amount, etc. the fastest i've had her was at a lake in nebraska maybe 3000 feet and that was maybe 50-52 with no gear and just me. i also have a tower dragging as well.

i've only owned this boat (only boat to date) for 3 seasons and from my experience with altitude and my V8 i'd have to say your topped out and if you want more you need to sell her and get a different TYPE of boat.

45 on the water is MOVING!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5689
Location: Long Island NY
Honestly the only things that will make a substantial difference are carb and prop...if it has a 2bbl going to a 4 bbl helps because it adds close to 30 hp (my OMC would be rated at 175 with a 2bbl...my 4 bbl is rated at 205) and the prop...mine came with a 14.5x19...didn't quite reach max rpms...looking through FWs literature for this model with the V-6s...found out that it was supposed to get the 15x17...changed to this and it perked up the acceleration quite a bit and it easily reaches 4700 rpm now....

on a 2008 boat I can't see much being wrong but other things to check are basic tune up stuff...plugs...filters...make sure total ignition advance is correct...clean the flame arrestor (these do get dirty and can get clogged)...

Mine gets at tune up each spring...check point gap (ancient points n condensor ignition)....timing...idle...replace plugs (usually get fouled from fogging oil)...new fuel filter..etc...

One thing that cause a major performance issue on this boat was the anti siphon valve on the gas tank...it's a safety feature that keeps gas from siphoning into the bilge if the gas line leaks but if it corrodes and sticks the engine will idle and can rev in neutral but will not plane out the boat...replacing this valve solved my problems....back in 04....

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:21 am 
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GIDDY UP

Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:08 pm
Posts: 856
Location: Tulsa, OK
Walt wrote:
Aquadisiac wrote:
Don't forget the nitrous


I only recommend nitrous in a boat on two occasions.....
1) really obnoxious tubers
2) difficulty getting the boat on the trailer


I only recommend it if you're having trouble making the payments but your policy is strong.

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