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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:58 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:47 pm
Posts: 11
I just bought a 1994 horizon se 18 se with a 5.0, and want a new prop. THe one i took off says 14 1/4 x 21. Should i get a new one? and what kind.?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:24 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:17 am
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Location: Monticello, AR
What are you trying to accomplish... better hole shot? Higher top end? The size you have now, 14 1/4 x 21 is the size that came with your boat originally according to Four Winns.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:28 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:47 pm
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Not sure pretty much use for tubing skiing and fun. Do I even need a new one?
Hard to find what prop. I think the motor is 5.0L OMC Cobra not sure about outdrive, think also cobra?


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 9:34 pm 
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Dolphin

Joined: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:42 am
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aploss wrote:
Not sure pretty much use for tubing skiing and fun. Do I even need a new one?

Go tubing/skiing with your current set up and see how it does. If you feel like you are "dragging" the skier too much to get them out of the water then you might want to improve hole shot.

To answer the question no you don't need a new prop, ALOT of boats do these activities with a factory prop. If it doesn't fit your needs or desires then modify it to better satisfy your personal needs.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 6:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:58 am
Posts: 189
Location: Central East Coast Florida
Ditto what SeeBoo said,
I had the same 3 blade aluminum prop on my Horizon 180 with the VolvoPenta 5.0 with SX outdrive and found it needed a bit more pull getting a heavier skiier (200 lb) out of the water faster.
I changed my prop to a 4 blade stainless steel on with a pitch of 20.
The idea is less pitch will increase the boats rpm and get it moving faster. The stainless steel prop is stiffer and will also help. Stainless is also more durable.
I got a Michigan Wheel prop Apollo SS 4 blade 14-1/8x20 with hub kit #105. DeepBlueYachtSupply.com Cost was $305 delivered.
Good luck Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:21 am 
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The size prop that came with your boat is the best all round performance prop for your set up....meaning you get good and good on both the top end and hole shot. As mentioned you can get better hole shot or better top end by either stepping up/down the pitch depending on what your desires are.

Personally, getting a better hole shot is typically more desired for that model boat (similar to mine) since you use it more for water sports if like me. I have no desire to fly across the lake at Mach 10. It foams up the beer.

One word of caution - you don't want to "over prop" your boat - meaning you can bump the rpm's too high and if not careful at the throttle you will spank your motor. So, if you need more hole shot don't go overboard with it. The 4 blade will give you more bite in the water - meaning more surface contact with the H20 and will make a big difference in your hole shot. I personally thought the pitch change would be greater than 1 when going from 3 blade to 4 though (maybe not).

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:27 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:47 pm
Posts: 11
So should I just go with the same 14.25 x 21 but a better metal ? Looks like turbo or stiletto? 3 blade.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:07 pm
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Location: Iowa
Just relax and drive the boat awhile with the current prop. You first need to establish a baseline before you can begin to shop for a new prop. You may find out the prop you already have is perfect for the type of boating you normally do. If not, at least then you'll know the boat's performance characteristics and can make a solid decision from there.

PS, if you do go with a new prop, go stainless. It was the best move I made in my old boat. I did sacrifice some top end speed from the move, but I never had to have the prop serviced/replaced again in over 15 years with it on. That's saying something boating on the Missississippi where you are bound to hit something solid sooner or later. With the aluminums, I'd be lucky to make it through a single season without having to put a spare on.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 6:11 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Fri May 15, 2009 7:48 am
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Location: Kingston Ontario
JDW250 wrote:
Just relax and drive the boat awhile with the current prop. You first need to establish a baseline before you can begin to shop for a new prop. You may find out the prop you already have is perfect for the type of boating you normally do. If not, at least then you'll know the boat's performance characteristics and can make a solid decision from there.

PS, if you do go with a new prop, go stainless. It was the best move I made in my old boat. I did sacrifice some top end speed from the move, but I never had to have the prop serviced/replaced again in over 15 years with it on. That's saying something boating on the Missississippi where you are bound to hit something solid sooner or later. With the aluminums, I'd be lucky to make it through a single season without having to put a spare on.

I'd rather replace an aluminum prop than damage the drive any day.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:57 am 
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I agree - you just need to run the boat as is and figure out what if any changes you may need to make. Again, that prop set up may be perfect for your us of the boat.....the stainless vs aluminum debate is an old argument that will get varied opinions....everything/everyone has a good and bad:)

Aluminum - benefits include reduced cost, but they will tend to break/bend before a stainless one will. Many see this as bad, but personally i feel this is a benefit also. Typically the aluminum prop will fail if you hit something (log, rock etc) before causing more damage to your lower unit assembly. The only draw back i see with the aluminum prop is it will tend to flex more under load meaning you will lose some performance. Most people will recognize a few more mph with the stainless prop over an aluminum one. But really this is not a big issue in my opinion - what's the difference if you are seeing 59 mph vs 62 mph at WOT. If you run at WOT all the time you will have more issues than a prop to deal with anyway.

Stainless - yes, a little better performance no doubt...more expensive though...tougher and possibly at the jeapordy of your low unit if you bang something hard.

This is coming from someone who is running a stainless prop.....I have been boating in same place for 20 years and know where not to go. I will be picking up an aluminum spare and if I hit a less familiar lake I will be swapping to the aluminum for that trip.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:43 am 
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Four Winns does alot of R&D to prop a boat correctly. The only time you need to re-prop is if you re-power. Use the years of trail and error FW offers and their R&D dept.

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