Jim_R wrote:
The bigger job will be running 10 gauge wires for amp power and ground back to the battery - don't forget to fuse the power lead as close to the battery as possible, and use ignition protected fusing.
On the 230/240 250/260 this is a really easy run especially if your batteries are on the starboard side. There is plenty of room and no unreachable places along the gunwhale to run the big cables. Plus, being heavy gauge they are more easily pushed through. The one spot that it make get a little trickier, but not much, is right at the helm IF you don't have the subwoofer already cut out or a deck plate there to help feed them into the storage area.
The harder part is running the wire from the head unit into the bow area on the port side past the head (toilet room). I recall there being a lot of insulation in there and I had to fight getting the wires though. But above the cupholders in the bow you should be able to feed them the rest of the way to the anchor locker and so on. Bottom line, if the wires aren't there, you can buy a roll of good speaker wire and run new stuff. Leave the old stuff in place and zip tie the new ones to the old so they will be neatly secured to existing mounting screws.
Also, depending on your amp I would use atleast a 4 gauge power and ground cable if not bigger. I would also consider wiring the power to the battery switch if you have two batteries rather than directly to one battery. This way you're not always having to use the same one.
Jim_R wrote:
Gotta warn you, going down this path will eventually lead to speaker upgrades, addition of a sub, a second battery & switch (and possibly combiner), and probably LEDS. Been there, done that.
I very much agree with this statement!
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Former owner of:
1996 Four Winns Horizon 200 5.8L VP
2006 Four Winns Horizon 260 8.1L VP
2007 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer
Current boat
2004 Sea Ray 290 Sun Sport Twin 350 Mags
