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Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7164 |
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Author: | SeriousRob [ Tue Mar 15, 2011 2:19 pm ] |
Post subject: | Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
Hi all, It is starting to get warmer here in Sunny Florida and I need to get my boat ready for the water. I have a 2002 Horizon 180 with Inboard/Outboard Volvo Penta 5.0 liter V8. Last year I did the following: 1) replaced fuel filter 2) engine oil and oil filter 3) impeller and water pump seals 4) replaced outdrive gear oil 5) new alternator (bearings were squealing) 6) plugs 7) new SS prop I plan on doing all the fluids and filters again this year but is there anything else I need to check and if so how do I go about it. I have heard about the gimbal bearing but thought the 2002 had a sealed bearing that was not serviceable. I have not had any leaking issues with the boat. The only issue I have had lately is the drive tends to stick trying to go from neutral to first or reverse the first time I try it. Once it engages it works fine from then on. Thanks for any suggestions and ideas on how to do the work. Thanks Rob |
Author: | Paul I. [ Wed Mar 16, 2011 10:48 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
Hi What about the zincs & the trailer?? I was out this weekend doing yard work & noticed that the brake pad were shot. Giving it a closer look, I found that the calipers were frozen too. |
Author: | SeriousRob [ Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
I put in a call to a local mobile marine repair place. I would like to watch someone else replace the bellows, grease U-joint, ionspect gimbal and check the alignment since I have never done it. Any ideas on the estimated cost to do just this? Yes, I need to actually get a set of freshwater anodes (magnesium?) and zinc anodes for saltwater. This is because in the summer I trailer the boat to Maine where it is freshwater and the rest of the year it is in brackish/saltwater in Florida. In Maine it is in the water for 3 weeks straight but in Florida it is only 4-5 day trips then back the garage. I think the boat has zinc anodes now as the outboard seems to look worse after the 3 weeks in freshwater in Maine than when used in salt in Florida. Rob |
Author: | Paul I. [ Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:52 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
I was going to mention about greasing the joints, but I never owned a Volvo until now. I pick up the new boat in a few weeks. For years I owned a Bravo 3. There is a place that I deal with for zincs. http://www.boatzincs.com/?gclid=CLTJqOT ... KgodDH9g8Q |
Author: | Cap'n Morgan [ Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:56 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
SeriousRob wrote: I put in a call to a local mobile marine repair place. I would like to watch someone else replace the bellows, grease U-joint, ionspect gimbal and check the alignment since I have never done it. Any ideas on the estimated cost to do just this? Yes, I need to actually get a set of freshwater anodes (magnesium?) and zinc anodes for saltwater. This is because in the summer I trailer the boat to Maine where it is freshwater and the rest of the year it is in brackish/saltwater in Florida. In Maine it is in the water for 3 weeks straight but in Florida it is only 4-5 day trips then back the garage. I think the boat has zinc anodes now as the outboard seems to look worse after the 3 weeks in freshwater in Maine than when used in salt in Florida. Rob This is from the "Zinc's Bible" I have had for years. Folow it and you will be fine. Quote: » Saltwater: Zinc or aluminum alloy anodes
» Brackish water or for boats that migrate between fresh and salt water: Aluminum alloy anodes only. » Fresh water: Magnesium alloy anodes. Never use magnesium in salt or brackish water! The reason for the above recommendations is that the relative conductivity of the various waters is different. The protection potential (actually measured in volts) is progressively stronger for the zinc, aluminum and magnesium alloys. Magnesium is the highest and used in the water with the least conductivity, fresh water. Once anodes are physically depleted by about 50% of their original mass, they should be replaced. |
Author: | PDACPA [ Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Getting ready for spring H180 what to do? |
Rob - where in FL? v8 in the 180? Damn. I have the v-6. My gimball bearing had to be replaced and I was set to do it myself but it had gotten so rusted that I finally took it to the mechanic as my buddy and I could not get the stern drive off. I spent about $1,000 but did some other little things while in there including getting the SS prop reconditioned and stuff. I am sure I could do it myself now that the gimball bearing is not frozen on the shaft from saltwater in there. Just need a way to hold the stern drive while you do it. There are tons of info on this site and google. The issue on my 180 is that the zerk fitting was in a position that you could not get the gun on it. I had them put a angled one on so I can access it. I would imagine the PO never greased it. |
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