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| Author: | waterlogged [ Tue May 03, 2011 6:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Recommended tune up procedures |
I have a 2005 230 horizon with a Volvo 5.7l. I was wondering what everyone does for tuning up the engine and outdrive before splashing her. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 04, 2011 2:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
How many hours? What symptoms cause you to feel it needs tuned up? |
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| Author: | LouC [ Wed May 04, 2011 6:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
I usually change the spark plugs, distributer cap, rotor, points n condenser, because the fogging oil often fouls the plugs and the boat sits on a salt water mooring so electrical components get corrosion on them. I also change the fuel filter, clean out the flame arrestor and have changed all the fluids during the fall winterization. On a newer engine, ignition is electronic so you don't have to do that, but I'd still check the terminals inside the dist cap for corrosion. For the outdrive, I check the shift cable, lube up all the pivot points with OMC/Bombardier triple guard grease, install new anodes, and paint with a) anti corrosion primer (Primocon) and b) antifouling paint. When running it on the water hose with the prop off, I check the shifting system to make sure it goes into and out of gear properly and that the shift interrupt system (Volvos don't use that, but Merc Alphas and OMC Cobras do) is working right. When you shift to neutral, it will momentarily stumble the idle to allow the clutch dogs in the lower gears to release so the drive will go into neutral. |
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| Author: | waterlogged [ Wed May 04, 2011 11:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
The boat has about 300 hrs on it. I changed the shift cable last year because it snapped as I was leaving my slip. I really want to tune it up so I know it has been done and done correctly ( sometimes I don't feel I can trust marinas especially this time of year because they might rush to get it out and cut corners). I got new anodes because they were pretty beat up but there are only the two on it. The gimble and the transome. Should I put more on it and where would I put them if I need more on it. I planned on oil change in the motor and outdrive also going to check the belt. I'll grease all zerk fittings but I wasnt sure what else would need to be done. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 04, 2011 3:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
Not too surprised your shift cable broke, the originals on the '05's were really stiff. Mine hadn't broken yet, but I had it replaced with a tfXtreme cable at the end of last season. Sadly, with the weather going the way it is, I may not find out this season how it works. Your Volvo drive has two anodes and that's all it needs. If you're in fresh water only you should have magnesium, if in salt you should have zinc. There is no place to add more and you shouldn't ever need them. One thing I'd recommend is checking all hose clamps all over the engine for tightness. It's something original owners rarely do unless something breaks, and they tend to be very loose after about 50 hours. Check your power steering fluid and trim pump fluid level (they both take power steering fluid). Grease the gimbal bearing, preferably with the engine running. That's the recessed zirk on the starboard side of the transom shield - you can't see it unless you get your head back there against the transom. As you pump in grease, STOP at the first sign of resistance, otherwise you can blow out the grease seal. As long as it's running right, I wouldn't do anything to the engine other than perhaps change the plugs and maybe the cap & rotor since it's at 300 hours - but I wouldn't do those things more often than that unless I had a specific reason to. If you don't know when the impeller was last changed, I'd do that for sure, and then every 2 years thereafter. Of course this is in addition to an oil & filter change, fuel filter change, and drive fluid change. Do you have dual batteries, and if so are they still mounted on the starboard side? Many of these boats with dual batteries had a tendency to list to starboard because of a weight imbalance caused by having the weight of two batteries on that side. The fix is to move them both to port. Some of them with dual batteries didn't seem to have the problem, and to my knowledge the ones with a single battery didn't have it. |
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| Author: | waterlogged [ Wed May 04, 2011 3:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
I replaced the cable with an extreme cable and we did it in the water. Only lost one 1/4" ratchet. I bought aluminum anodes because the water I'm in is salt and brackish. The marina also recommended the aluminum. I do have two batteries and the boat does list to starboard. I will look into moving them because the fresh water tank is also on the starboard side. I also just found the trim sensor on the outdrive is broken. I ordered a new one and after $220 and a few days it should be here. I planned on the other things mentioned ie. Oil outdrive lube etc. I was just wondering what else to look for. I hope the weather turns here also. Been kinda rainy and cool here in New England. Don't know if the boat will leave the slip because of the rising astronomical gas prices but we shall see. How hard is it to get to the water pump in the outdrive? |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 04, 2011 3:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
Ah yes, for brackish, aluminum is correct but I'd keep a close eye on them. When you say "water pump" I assume you mean the raw water pump, which is not in the drive with Volvo. It's mounted on the front of the engine. The housing is held on with four brass slotted screws and retained by a big black steel flat bar with a rubber tip on the end. You have to unbolt that bar from the front of the block, then remove the four screws. On the batteries, I put one of them behind the ski locker, mounting it just like the factory had done. I mounted the other one in a battery box in the aft end of the ski locker. Of course this means you have to replace your existing battery cables with longer ones to get over to the switch. You're correct about the cause; fresh water, the captain, stereo components, sink, solid surface counter, all on one side of the boat. Add 150 pounds of batteries mounted right over the steepest part of the hull, and the list becomes a foregone conclusion. |
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| Author: | waterlogged [ Wed May 04, 2011 3:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
I meant the impeller. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 04, 2011 4:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
Now I remember, I had to go find the pics of your boat. I'm a little surprised that anyone in a salt water area had a painted trailer. If you plan to keep this boat long-term you might be thinking down the road of replacing the trailer. Not what you were asking, I know. 
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| Author: | waterlogged [ Wed May 04, 2011 4:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
I replaced the trailer last year. It snapped in half as I was pulling the boat mid season. I got an aluminum one now. |
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| Author: | 230 Mike [ Wed May 04, 2011 4:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
Wow. How fun that must've been. |
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| Author: | waterlogged [ Wed May 04, 2011 5:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Recommended tune up procedures |
Not fun at all. |
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