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| Winterized https://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8554 |
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| Author: | qweedqwag [ Mon Oct 31, 2011 8:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Winterized |
Folks, Last year I paid some schmuck 240 dollars to winterize my 200 ss this year I did it all myself it was so easy I'll be doing it on my own from now on, heres what I did. 1. Lubed the top end with two stroke oil, by hooking up a small tank to the fuel filter and let it run until it started to smoke shut her down. 2. Changed plugs. 3. Pulled all the pump hoses 4. Pulled all the drain plugs (block and exhaust manifolds 5 Covered her up with the original plastic tarp with the bow and cockpit covers 6. Lowered the drive all the way, and lubed the shafts 7 Removed the batteries. Done. Saved 240 bucks and I know it's done right. Next summerizing. Mike |
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| Author: | TX H210SS [ Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Winterized |
How many pump hoses did you pull out of curiosity? Couple other issues to ponder - You didn't mention anything about filling fuel tank and treating the fuel with Stabil (Pink) - if this wasn't done then you really need to do this. The ethanol sitting up over the winter can cause you all sort of issues with your fuel system. You really want to fill the tank, treat with fuel stabilizer and then run the engine on muffs for about 10 minutes to let treated fuel flow thru the filter and FI system (or carb). My bro didn't treat his fuel last year and it cost him bunches being he had twins. If this wasn't done i don't really know a way around it other than to start over. Hopefully, you just forgot to type it in your list. The fogging oil in the fuel will not stabilize the fuel I wouldn't think. I have winterized my boats always.. Oil and filter change Low unit oil swap - grease prop shaft Impellor change Fill and stabilize fuel Run on muffs for about 10 minutes Fog engine and shut her down Drain manifolds and block (probe openings) Pull hoses from impellor housing and drain Pull water pump hose loose and drain raise and lower bow Pull kill switch (prevents firing) Spin engine couple times to evacuate water from pumps Re-connect impeller and water pump hoses and install drain plugs I leave my battery in boat, but shut off battery switch (this allows me to charge it on 3 stage charger mounted in boat. I wipe down all vinyl with 3M vinyl treatment - prop open seat cushions for venting Lower drive - cover boat - release bow and stern strap tension Mine is in storage building so i set out rat poisen along walls in the unit and spread a box of moth balls under and around boat (works great for keeping spiders and other insects away). With the engine oil and filter, fuel filter, drive oil and impeller kit - i am a little over $ 100 and that's doing it myself - but when winter is over all i have to do is hook her up and hit the water. |
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| Author: | Bobaloo [ Tue Nov 01, 2011 6:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Winterized |
I did mine in this order.. Fill and stabilize fuel Run on muffs for about 10 minutes Oil and filter change Fog engine and shut her down Drain manifolds and block (probe openings) Pull hoses from impellor housing and drain Pull water pump hose loose and drain raise and lower bow Spin engine couple times to evacuate water from pumps Re-connect impeller and water pump hoses and install drain plugs Release bow and stern strap tension Grease prop shaft Remove battery, place moth balls, shrinkwrap boat Low unit oil swap & Impellor change to be done in the Spring. |
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| Author: | LouC [ Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Winterized |
To all this, I'd add that it's best to change the engine oil, filter and drive oil in the fall, you don't want the old oil with contaminants sitting in the engine all winter, and if there is water in the drive oil, you want that out (it can freeze and crack the gearcase). In addition, it's better to get jobs like changing drive seals done over the winter since then mechanics are not rushing to get everyone's boat done in the spring. Lastly, I like to pull off the drive and check the bellows, gimble and ujoints, and fix any issues with those over the winter. Many I/O owners do not realize that the drive has to be removed to check these points and do the maintenance, if you don't you will have some really expensive repair bills. |
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| Author: | qweedqwag [ Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Winterized |
Well the fuel tank is empty and our marina doesn't use ethanol fuel and I would use the Ethanol Stabil if I did not the pink. The fogging was done with two stroke oil mixed 50:1 with a small hopper tank directly into the fuel system into the running engine. The oil being in the engine is not a big deal over the winter, I have worked for the army and we test oil that has been in engines for two years sitting and never had and issue, so Im not worried. Guess everyone had a different system. Have a good winter. Mike |
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| Author: | TX H210SS [ Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Winterized |
Good deal - no ethanol fuel is a real bonus and eliminates a lot of worries we have here. The fuel tank empty is just as good as full - always been told it's one or the other, but never store halfway. You should be set. |
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