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 Post subject: Rick's H180 mods
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:54 am 
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Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
Here's a list of what I've done, things to do on my 2000 Horizon 180 3.0 VP. I purchased the boat June 1st 2011. It was completely stock except a rebuilt engine and lived under a tree.

Things I've Installed as of 5.25.12:

Polk DB651 speakers (2)
NGK iridium plugs, 8mm wires, cap, rotor
KN oil filter, rotella oil
Mobil 1 syn gear oil
impeller, belts, thermostat
New trailer
automatic bilge pump
10 micron gas/water separator (3.0 does not have one factory)
Attwood LED nav/all round lighting. LED bulbs for gauges
12v cig lighter
200w inverter
Magma propane kettle grill with flush mount base
Grant steering wheel with Four Winns logo
Kenwood KMR-350U + 1 remote
Fixed snap in covers, they are starting to get beat up
21p prop Solas Amita
Stainless Steel cup holders
Faria gauges
Real carbon fiber gauge cluster
New switch actuators with screen printed graphics
New horn button
New ignition switch
New horn with polished cover
repaired some fading vinyl in the bow
Garmin 441s with G2 Vision map


Wish list/Things to do:
-Garmin fuel consumption sensor
-Polk MM691 speakers in the rear deck
-Remove folding captain's lounger and replace with standard boat seat
-White keel guard to protect boat when beaching
-Tint windshield 5%
-23p prop
-Swap steel rims on trailer with stylish aluminum rims
-Fix power steering ram leak
-Replace alternator (it's original and since they're $80 new might as well do it before it goes)
-Replace grab handles with something not so 1990's looking
-Sell it and purchase a 2003 or newer 205 Sundowner

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


Last edited by ric on Wed Jun 27, 2012 1:26 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:28 pm 
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Villiage Idiot

Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 8:28 pm
Posts: 1405
Location: Kansas City
ric wrote:
It's the start of the week after christmas and work is dead. Here's a list of what I've done, things to do on my 2000 Horizon 180 3.0 VP. I've decided to keep it, a 195/205 Sundowner won't give me the space needed, and my lake has a 22ft and under rule.

I purchased the boat June 1st this year. It was completely stock except a recently rebuilt engine (with receipts).

Things I've Installed:
Polk DB651 speakers (2)
NGK iridium plugs, mallory 8mm wires, cap, rotor
KN oil filter, rotella oil It seems expensive to use rotella for only 40hrs use, but haven't heard anything else bad about it
Mobil 1 syn gear oil What viscocity?? 80W90?
impeller, belts, thermostat
New trailer
automatic bilge pump
10 micron gas/water separator (3.0 does not have one factory)
Attwood LED nav/all round lighting. LED bulbs for gauges
12v cig lighter Add a few around the boat. I may add one to the bow area next... See Walt's Mod's if needed.
200w inverter I recommend 400W minimum. That's 3 amps, and can run some household stuff (about 40 amps DC though)
Magma propane kettle grill with flush mount base

Wish list/Things to do:
-New steering wheel http://www.jegs.com/i/Grant/470/457-1/10002/-1?CT=999
-Remove convertible captain's seat and replace with Attwood Aergo seat and adjustable sliding base http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/aergo What price are you showing? I know Doc99 may be interested
90% of the time I'm standing next to the seat because it's too low and maybe once in 6 months has anyone sat behind me. When not moving I have to be a contortionist to sit sideways/backwards to talk to people. I'd rather have the extra room for a big cooler (that can double as the missing seat if needed) and the benefit of a swivel seat with a flip up bolster.
-White keel guard. I noticed a few extra scratches from me beaching.
-Sony Marine H910UI radio
-Faria Kronos gauges
-Fix snap in covers, they are starting to get beat up
-Tint windshield
-Find a bow fill-in cushion
-21p prop to replace my 19p
-Raw water wash down system. I'm tired of using a beer pitcher to clean the floors.
-KN air filter and get carb/ign retuned at a boat pool to get optimal power on E10
-After all this is done, find a used boat lift


All these upgrades/changes that I'm making brings my total investment including the price of the boat to around $5500. :D



Sounds like you have your hands full! B.O.A.T.!

_________________
Walt B
"Debt-Charged"
Black '07 H210SS
6.2L Bravo One turning a 21P HIFive
Wakeboard Tower with Perfect Pass Stargazer version
Missouri River; Kansas City, Mo.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:58 pm 
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Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
Rotella around here is $16 for a 5qt can. Cheaper then regular car oil. 75w90 Mobil 1 syn as per the volvo users manual.

I plan on keeping the original convertible seat in storage for a while just in case I don't like the new setup. The new seat/base will cost around $1000 installed so I won't even see that until April sometime because I want the super trick hydraulic up/down with sliding forward/back swivel locking base that costs $300 by itself.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 5:04 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Ric,

Before you buy the steering wheel, I'd check to see what type of hub you have; FW changed sometime between 1999 and 2004 from a standard taper/ keyway to a splined hub. The bolt spacing (attaching wheel to boss) is the same for both. So, if your replacemebnt wheel has a removeable boss, you can reuse the original FW boss ( usually; I bought a wheel that turned out to have 5 bolt fixing, not the usual 6 !). Most aftermarket wheels with integral bosses seem to be the taper type.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:20 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Graham R wrote:
Ric,

Before you buy the steering wheel, I'd check to see what type of hub you have; FW changed sometime between 1999 and 2004 from a standard taper/ keyway to a splined hub. The bolt spacing (attaching wheel to boss) is the same for both. So, if your replacemebnt wheel has a removeable boss, you can reuse the original FW boss ( usually; I bought a wheel that turned out to have 5 bolt fixing, not the usual 6 !). Most aftermarket wheels with integral bosses seem to be the taper type.


I took the cover off, no "boss" on the wheel that's removable. Just flat one piece deal with a bolt in the center.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 9:26 am 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Sorry, I see that now from the pictures on the FW parts website. They only started listing both spline and taper hub versions of the same wheel from the 2001 model year onwards. I remember the taper hub boss on my 1999 boat was very difficult to get off, I needed to improvise a puller. ( I needed to remove it to get rid of corrosion/ bubbling paint and to paint it properly). The taper to shaft mating surfaces had been assembled "dry" and there was some corrosion there making it very tight. Squirting it with some release fluid a few days before could have helped I guess.

Graham


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 9:08 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Okay, some progress.

New LED 360 round light is installed. Still waiting on red SMD bulbs from china for the gauges. Ordered the steering wheel so that should be here next week.

Next weeks order? Radio. This is going to be the baddest boat on the lake come spring

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:13 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5684
Location: Long Island NY
Graham,
I removed the OE wheel on my 88 about 3 years ago (it was on there for 20+ years so I was not sure I could get it off) and the way to take one off with a taper shaft, first loosen the retaining nut and unscrew it almost all the way. Then spray PB Blaster or Kano Kroil between the shaft and the wheel mount. Leave the nut on the end of the threads so when you pull off the wheel it doesn't smack you in the head. Then take a block of wood and a hammer an give the nut/shaft a good shot. Usually the shock will get it loose, you don't have to hit it hard at all. When the wheel comes off usually there is a Woodruff key (like a half moon shaped retainer) that will fall out. This you have to put back in place. I used some OMC triple guard grease to hold it in place when re-installing. Taper shafts need a shock to loosen the grip of the taper. I though mine would be hard to remove but the wheel was off in about 5 minutes.

Of course I put a good coat of grease on the shaft as well, I use this stuff on everything in a salt water environment, even on my vehicles, the only grease that stays on door hinge checks, hood latches etc for over a year.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 11:21 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Yup, that's the secret trick for tapered shafts. One sharp quick whap with a hammer on the shaft. I used to work on small engines for years as a growing boy for side money and after the 2nd flywheel trying to wrench it off with a puller and nearly killing myself, I realized that you just hit the shaft with one good hit and it falls right off.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am
Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KMR350U ... -350U.html

Hmm, I might just bite. Does everything I want and looks sexy. Just came out.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:44 pm 
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Posts: 1146
Location: San Diego, CA
I went with this one:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSXMS60/Sony-DSX-MS60.html?search=sony+marine&nvpair=FFCategory%7c%5brank215950%5dMarine+Stereos

No interest in CDs anymore and the ipod/iphone plugs right in and charges.

_________________
2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:56 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Sony doesn't have front usb on their marine radios! AHH! WTF? You gotta pay $200 to have front usb WITHOUT a CD player! That's why I want the kenwood. Has both for $120 shipped

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:46 pm
Posts: 1146
Location: San Diego, CA
Depends on your use, I suppose....I would have no need for a front USB, but I can see that it would be useful to some.
I like that I can plug in my ipod, or usb device, and tuck it away inside the unit.
Still, if you want mess with CDs anymore the unit I got isn't for you.

_________________
2002 Funship 214
VP 5.7 GX Si
2003 Tahoe


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:34 pm 
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Location: Austin, TX
Those old round things? Yeah, I still use them cause you never have to worry about it's battery being charged or going dead. I have that sony HD radio CDX thing in my car that does EVERYTHING and all it's really good at doing is making my ipod stay forever dead. Since the ipod doesn't shut off when the car does, it stays on until it dies.. so when you grab it to goto the gym, it's dead.

Ordered it. Found a $20 off coupon online so it came to $99 shipped! I'm also not going to use a flip cover thing. If the bezel doesn't fill the gaps of the current hole I'm going to fab up a piece of thin aluminum to work as a "frame" that should look good if need be.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:21 am
Posts: 5667
Location: Austin, TX
Had my first chance to use the LED nav/anchor lights tonight. Wow. Stupid bright and makes the boat look MUCH better. It's like checking out a modern car with LED and HID lighting compared to an old car. Much more modern and it gives it a "high tech" look. I highly recommend them to everyone.

_________________
1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold

Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread


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