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I'm having issues with the engine stalling when put in Neutral. It starts/runs okay when over 1000 RPM Problem is when I put the control in neutral to get it in gear the rpms drop around 500 and it dies. Just replaced the distributor cap and rotor and no change. Could it be the cables/control handle or carburator?

2006 H180 3.0

Thanks
Dave

Maybe the IAC? If so, it is an easy fix. Start with this thread which includes links to other threads discussing replacing the IAC: http://www.smwebhead.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9596

The same thing is happening to me with my 4.3 VP. I haven't gotten it into the shop yet (still under warranty), but the said it sounds like idle adjustment, as my minimum idle is supposed to be around 650-700 RPM. I hope this is the simple solution, but I would love to hear any replies for other causes as well.
Thanks!

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2011 H190 4.3VP

Former 3.0 owner here...

There is no external fuel filter, you unscrew the bowl off the bottom of the pump. I would get that filter at a stealership and replace that, and install an external water seperator/fuel filter. They are not expensive and easy to do. I bolted mine to the wood that held in the gas tank under the inspection panel in front of the motor.

Rebuild the carb with a holley carb rebuild kit. If you run E10/Pump gas, go 1 jet size bigger in the main jet. Check the timing with a timing light, after you go up a jet size make sure it's at factory spec and then advance a degree or 3 on the distributor.

You can also just try verifying the float level and reset the idle scerws back to stock holley spec. You can download a manual on their site. Incorrect float levels will mess bad with idle.

Sounds like the boat sat for a while with fuel in the bowl, the idle passages are the smallest and get gummed up with fuel jelly first. Rebuild kit time The 3.0 LOOOOVVVESSSSS E10, I gained nearly 400rpm over stock by jetting and advancing the ignition, I was able to go a pitch higher on the prop and get more speed (broke into the low 40s). Something not possible with zero ethanol marine gas.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

Idle Air Control valve (IAC). Piece of cake and you can do it yourself for under $100 bucks. Make sure you clean out the area of all carbon befor you install the new one. Granted, it could be other things, but I'd bet on that. It's probably stuck in one setting which is proper at higher RPM's but not lower ones.

3.0 is carb. No IAC. Rebuild carb.

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1981 Columbia 8.7
2015 Yamaha FZR - 87mph - sold
2006 Yamaha GP1300R - sold
2003 Chaparral 215 SSI - sold
2009 Stingray 195CS - sold
2000 Four Winns H180 - sold
1976 O'day Daysailer II - sold
Rick's Four Winns H180 Mods/Upgrade Thread

1000 RPM is off the charts for that motor, I run motors in excess of .700 lift with barely over 100 degrees of lobe seperation that will idle at 650 (lobe surging, extremely rough idle though), Ric has some valid points, drop a float bowl first and look for white residue, if you see some than rebuild the carb... it is alcohol gummed, if so after rebuilding use Star*Tron in you fuel from now on, but also check all vacuum sources, and spray all gasket surfaces (carb, intake)while running with either WD-40, carb cleaner etc and if the RPM picks up you have a vacuum leak and deal with that first, as a vacuum leak will cause a otherwise good running engine to misbehave and stall...just like a dirty filter, don't forget the little cintered one by the carb they are synonomus for clogs.

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2000 H190 5.0GL