www.iFourWinns.com

Took my new 2006 200 horizon 5.0 volvo out this weekend. I noticed a pretty good virbaration at low speed with the trim up. It also seemed to be making a a weird hum when we fiurst put her on the water at moderate speeds. It went away later in the day..but the shake at low speeds witht the trim up is still there...anybody have any ideas?? I looked at the prop and outdrive and they look fine...we did not hit anything. Is this normal, am I being paranoid??

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2006 four winns horizon 200
Ted C Ballinger

What do you mean by trim up? If you have the outdrive at any higher than a 30 degree bend you are harming your universals. You should not operate the engine over 1000 rpms in any high trimmed situations such as trimming up to go through a canal

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

Okay...I am not sure what a universal is...I was going into a cove with a depth of about three feet. I had the trim just past the mid point and going at a slow speed. It just seems to shake a lot more trimmed up like that. The propeller is still underwater...and I am not going fast.

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2006 four winns horizon 200
Ted C Ballinger

Number 13 is the whole drive shaft. 16, 17, and 18 are the universal joints. These allow the drive shaft to bend a bit and spin still. When you have the drive up that far you are placing a lot of bend into the shaft at the universals and it's real hard on them. That's the reason Volvo give the 30 degree limit and the limited rpms

Also, you are placing a lot of stress on the gimbal bearing (part# 40) which is pressed into the transom shiels. The drive shaft goes thru the gimbal to the inside of the boat. The gimbal will make some noise bgeerally when you to a lock to lock turn at speed and went the drive is trimmed excessively. It also get noisy when dry. There is a zerk fitting on the right side of the transom shield that you should grease at least twice a year.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

By the way, since the shift clutch is down-line from the universal, the universal will be stressed as John describes whether or not the drive is in gear.

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1999 Vista 268

So what am I supposed to do in low water? I guess I am unsure is to what is okay as far as trim level. When I am goig at high speed I keep it right below the first mark from the bottom on the trim level. When I am going thru shallows at low speed (5mph or less) I have it trimmed almost three quarters from the bottom....Is there a spot that I should never go past no matter what...not trying to be stupid I just do not understand

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2006 four winns horizon 200
Ted C Ballinger

Now I am worried that I just screwed up my brand new boat!!!!!

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2006 four winns horizon 200
Ted C Ballinger

my trim level gauge has 3 marks on it to show Up, Down, and 30 degree trim levels

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2005 Funship 214 5.0GXi/DP | 2006 Yamaha FJR1300

That is the same gauge I have...when I am going at high speed I keep it right below the first mark. When I am in the shallows I am right above the third mark...that is when it virbarates. It goes away when i drop below that mark

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2006 four winns horizon 200
Ted C Ballinger

so thats a gimbal bearing

The trim gauge IS NOT a calibrated instrument. They are easy to adjust by loosening the set screw and moivng them. Trim by ear and feel because the sender on the right side of the tramsom shield can change. Use the gauge as only a guide, not an absolute.

When properly trimmed, you will feel the engine smooth out (under less strain) and you will see a slight increase in rpms. DPs require little trim. The best way to trim is by giving the trim a second or two and them waiting a second or so to see the affects. Your boat does not react instantaneously like a car. Ditto with trim tabs.

Too much trim and you are loosing efficiency. If you really want to trim the boat to the best it can be you will need to invest a touch of $ but they will soon save you much more than you spent. That way is....

Install a fuel management system. For a single engine boat, a new Lowrance LMF-200 with a EP-10 fuel transducer can be had for about $150. If you have twins, another EP-10 can be had for about $50. By adjusting your speed and using the flow meter to adjust your trim you will save fuel. It's easy to reduce you fuel burn by a 1 -2 gph by reducing your rpm by as little as 200 rpms nad tweeking your trim to the most efficient position.

Do the math... average northern usage = 50 hrs /season (???) at a savings of 1 gph = 50 gals * $3.40/gal (marina price) = $175, unit paid for. If you use the boat more than 50 hrs, it's all gravy.

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Jvalich
http://www.badcock.com

'04 FW 288 Vista "Mental Floss"

As long as you are going SLOW in shallow water, and the outdrive is low enough for the prop to be pushing water, you are fine.

Be sure to mention the vibration & noise when you take your boat in for the 20 hour service. Or even earlier. The dealer is much easier to work with if you bring problems to their attention earlier than later, when all heck breaks loose.

My 04 VP SX started making the classic U-Joint/Gimbal Bearing sounds at about 5 hours. The dealer did not believe me. When I took it in for a 20 hour service they warranteed the U-joint and Gimbal bearing. Now she is quiet and smooth as new.

If there are problems. Get them fixed before they become huge.

D

Ok,

Got another question for you. My husband and I went out on our first outing last weekend too. We bought a new Four Winns as well.

Whenever you are trying to get the boat onto the trailer, wouldn't you normally have your trim up, so you don't scrape the bottom, and if so, then, if I'm reading this thread right, you shouldn't be revving the engine to get the boat up to the roller to clip it in... correct? If this is the case, how do you guys normally get the boat up on the trailer? The dealer actually showed us this.

Forgive my ignorance here....

Nothing stupid or ignorant about asking a question, especially about a component that can be damaged.

Referring to the trim gauge shown above (and most trim gauges are similar) - under normal circumstances (and assuming your gauge & sender are adjusted correctly) you should have the trim at or near the bottom mark. Trim should be used *very* conservatively - a tiny "bump" up at a time while under way, assessing the effect on speed and ride attitude after each bump. The trim should never be above the 2nd mark while running, and with the DP you probably would never get anywhere close to that high. If the water is too shallow to keep your drive down in that range while running, you shouldn't be in that water.

As to whether you've done any damage, I doubt it, if the noise goes away while you're trimmed normally. But I don't know how long you ran with it that high.

As to trailering - it's ok to trim up very slightly if you feel you need to, but you shouldn't have to. If your ramp is such that you can't approach the trailer with the drive down, I'd look for a new ramp. And, that's really a separate issue from whether it's necessary to power load. I consider power loading an evil practice, but in a year of using our boat I have not figured out a way to avoid doing it.

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Mike
2005 Four Winns 230/240
VP 5.7GXi/DP
1998 F-150 XLT
Boat Pic

I don't know about that, Mike. My boat's outdrive will hit bottom on level ground. FWIW my trailer winch just doesn't cut it for manual loading, either. My little 170 loads best under power, & based on experience I trim the drive. I toasted a prop once when the drive was fully down during loading. Live & (hopefully) learn