www.iFourWinns.com

I hear ya..... Been doing a ton of home remodeling. Boating is my top priority once the weather breaks. Hmmm....Now where did I put those keyes .....LOL.Thanks, Ray

_________________
Ray & Paula
2006 Four Winns 244 Funship

Ohh, I hear ya there. This past winter I started a business and am in the process of a couple of other ventures that are threatening to creep into boating time. Luckily most of the business opportunities around here have to do with boats, so I may end up actually getting PAID to be on the water

One question/comment I do have is when you winterized the last time, you used anti-freeze, correct? Or did you just drain and let the block/manifolds/hoses/pump sit dry for the couple of years with no summarization/winterization?

The reason I ask, is that anti-freeze also stops corrosion (previous wet metal+air=rust). Not trying to be negative, just wouldn't want ya to get any "surprises" when ya hit the water.

Oh also, where ya located at? Geography/weather can play into things to look for.

_________________

1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

Please promise us that you are not going to use that winterizing tank idea on a raw water cooled marine engine, because it is really not the proper way to do it. If the thermostat does not open all the way, it can leave water in the engine which means you can have freezing.
The right way, as I have tried to get people to do on this site, is to drain everything, the drains and hoses and poke all the holes to make sure all the water is out. Then if you want to use AF you can back fill it through the hoses. I use -100 A F with corrosion inhibitors. My way is what both Merc and OMC have in their manuals, they never advised using that tank, that was a hair brained short cut idea that is only appropriate if you have closed cooling (heat exchanger).

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

My engine is a 5.7 GXi Volvo Penta with dual prop. I perform all my winterizing of the engine as I stated earlier. I believe that the thermostat is at least partially open due to running the engine during the steps. One thing I probably do that most people don't, is pull the hoses off the engine along with drain plugs after running the antifreeze through. Why? Expansion, just in case there is water trapped and or not a good antifreeze flush. This could have either positive or negative results, depending on your point of view. This was recommended when I originally purchased the boat and has worked for me. I would have to partially agree that now that the boat has been in storage and not ran since the spring of 2012, pulling the hoses off wasn't the best thing to do. Reason being that the system would have been sealed. With that being said, as you know, hindsight is always better than foresight. I didn't plan on my boat being in storage all this time. Being stored dry and in my polebarn, I still feel that all will be ok without a condensation issue. I live in Michigan. Thanks, Ray

_________________
Ray & Paula
2006 Four Winns 244 Funship

It does not make sense to use AF if you are draining it. In fact in all the Merc manuals I have seen, they say to drain to prevent freeze damage, you add AF to reduce corrosion. And the only way to do that safely is to drain manually and back fill with AF manually. In a freshwater area corrosion is not such a big issue. Here in salt water it is so that's why I add AF.
I think everyone here would be a lot better off if they read and followed what the maker of the engine systems has in their manuals.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Well, that's a new one for me. I mean, you're probably gonna be ok when you get her ready this season, but I wouldn't do it that way again. Not trying to wizz in your Wheaties or anything, but condensation and corrosion can creep in, even in the driest of storage.

Oh, check all the openings on your engine for wasp and mud dobber nests. Those SOB's can get into anything. Let us know how it works out.

_________________

1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

If you have metal drain plugs like Volvos and OMCs it helps to put a gasket sealer like OMCs on the threads which is the same as Permatex Aviation Sealer. It prevents corrosion and keeps the plugs from seizing in the drains. I use it on all threaded fittings on the outdrive that sits 6 months/year in salt water. The bolts always come out...

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Thanks for the replies......I know I'm wasting AF, but never had an issue and has worked for me. I do believe I would do things differently if I had to deal with salt water. Everyone has there own way of doing things. I'm not saying that your method is wrong, it's just different than what I do. Six of one and a half a dozen of another. So far nothings broke, therefore I'm not going to fix it. If I find a problem while summerizing then I will make some changes. Thanks for your thoughts and input. Ray

_________________
Ray & Paula
2006 Four Winns 244 Funship

Hi, It's been a super busy summer for me, but I did manage to siphon out all the gas through my fuel gauge sending unit opening as LouC stated in my first reply. Changed the gas filter along with fresh gas and performed all my summarizing maintenance. I'm pleased to tell you, the engine started right up with no hiccups. Only problem, it's late August and I haven't had a chance to take it to the lake. I will be within the next week or two..... I thank all of you for your help. Ray

_________________
Ray & Paula
2006 Four Winns 244 Funship

Good luck on the lake.

Ray

_________________

"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
'87 Chaparral 198CXL 4.3 OMC Cobra
'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
'64 Water Wings

I bought an electric 12 volt fuel pump for $40 and then dropped another $60 at Cabela's for a 12-foot Attwood universal fuel line with a primer bulb. I wanted to be able to prime the electric pump without sucking on the hose. I pulled the fuel line off the engine and plugged it into the fuel pump. I made darn sure the electrical connections on the fuel pump were covered and the 12-volt line was switched at distance from the fuel pump and the containers that the fuel was being pumped into. And a large fire extinguisher was at my side. With all of these precautions I was able to pump my boat tank with absolutely no problems. I have 65 gallons of fuel in the boat to remove that cost me over $250. So with just one use of this equipment, the pump and hose will pay for themselves in the recovery of the 1-year old fuel. The fuel was properly stabilized at the end of last year and smells like new. I will burn it in my wife's car.

_________________
2006 Sundowner 255, 5.7 GXi, 320 hp
"Simply Irresistible"

see we're all learning that's how it should be...
I just did my winterization this weekend. I used to wait longer but I realized I never really used the boat much in October anyway and I prefer to do that job on a nice 70 degree fall day rather than on a 45 degree day in November lol. Anyway still filling up the engine, manifolds and raw water intake hose with -100 Marine Antifreeze.
I have 2 thermostat housings, the one that was original, that I took off in 2002 because of flaking corrosion and the one I installed then. The next time I have the newer one off to change the 'stat, I will take pix so you can see the difference. That one has no flaking rust inside. Because the engine being filled all the way up with AF has no air inside, corrosion is considerably reduced.
Think about it, you paint cast iron, why, because it rusts fast even just exposed to the moisture in the air. You spray (or you should) spray your engine especially the oil pan with a corrosion inhibitor like T-9 Boeshield or Corrosion X, why, to prevent corrosion. So why leave bare cast iron exposed to air inside the engine all winter?
My neighbor and I have galvanized trailers. Mine is a 1994 but it was completely rebuilt between 2004-2008. The only OE parts that remain are the frame rails, crossmembers and the winch post. It has been washed off after each dunk in salt water and sprayed with corrosion inhibitor at least 2x a season. My neighbor's is a 2005, with a 2005 Key West 2020 Dual Console. I don't think she ever maintained this trailer, all the ubolts are really rusted and the springs are shot. I coated my springs with OMC triple guard grease and they get sprayed too. Mine looks like new still. So this stuff works. Just costs lil cash and takes a lil time....

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II