UPDATE ON MY 1987 GREAT BUY!

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

Got the boat back today, out drive stored up and ruined the upper seal, fluid in the bellows, bellows need to be changed gimbal driveshaft all good. Motor is still locked going to try and get a mechanic buddy to come over and rip the top end off so we can soak it. Starter needs to be replaced and bilge pump.

LouC · **Posted:** Wed Nov 12, 2014 5:56 pm

See there are used boats and used up boats. The challenge is to find one of the former not the latter.
Capt'n when I built one on the website it was 47 grand but I added a lot of stuff that I liked

...I know you can deal with them but I am just pointing out, you can't make chicken salad out of chicken sh!t lol.....

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

Marvel mystery worked and i can now turn the crank with a breaker bar and its free flowing, other than new spark plugs, starter, and battery, muffs, what else do i need to check before trying to start this bad boy? i was told to trim the outdrive all the way down before trying to start and tip the nose of the trailer down.... anythign else?

rpengr · **Posted:** Sat Nov 15, 2014 10:58 am

I would not try to start it with an unknown condition raw water pump impeller. Either replace the impeller, or at least inspect it. (If an old impeller sheds rubber pieces, they can lodge in the engine or thermostat housing or thermostat)

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

when i got the boat checked he said impeller was mint

rpengr · **Posted:** Sat Nov 15, 2014 11:39 am

You only need three things for an engine to start:
1. Compression
2. Fuel/Air mixture
3. Ignition
(and add #4 to prevent damage: cooling water)

That's all! But here's some of the details:
1. Compression: Starter works, Piston Rings and cylinder walls in sufficient condition to develop compression, Valve train working and valves seating. A compression check of each cylinder while cranking on the starter getting at least 80psi should get it started, but "good" compression would be at least 120psi. Compression should improve after the engine runs for a while, but you cannot get it started without sufficient compression. Oil (and oil pressure) to lubricate the main bearings, valves, cylinder walls, and to "inflate" the hydraulic lifters if applicable.

2. Fuel/air mixture: A source of uncontaminated fresh fuel. Fuel pump that works. Clean fuel filters. Rebuilding the carburetor is most likely necessary. A can of aerosol "starting fluid" (ether) can help get it started by providing a temporary source of highly volatile fuel to get that initial start, however, if it won't keep running without the starting fluid, then it is not getting proper fuel/air mixture. Starting fluid can also help makeup for low compression during that first start up, since it required less compression than gas/air mixture.

3. Ignition: Ignition system working and within reasonable timing limits (such as 6deg before-top-dead-center). No moisture in distributor, OK Distributor Cap and Rotor, OK spark plug wires. OK spark plugs that are not flooded with your marvel mystery oil while cranking, or fouled with carbon or rust.

Simple as 1, 2, 3 :wink:

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Nov 15, 2014 12:03 pm

If I remember right these 470 Mercs have a closed cooling system due to the Alu head. Make sure that the heat exchanger is full of a 50/50 mix of AF and water and that all the hose clamps are tight.
Make sure the drive is full of drive fluid as well because the driveshaft and lower shaft all turn when
The engine is running.

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

a bad Upper seal in the outdrive and some oil in the bellows should not affect the motor running and trying to start as long as there is fluid in the outdrive and its trimmed down correct? ALSO i have to fill the heat exchangers with 50/50? like premix 50/50 coolant and water? or actual coolant and 50% water? thought if i fill the reservoir i would be good...

NiagaraChillin · **Posted:** Sun Nov 16, 2014 1:13 pm

Yes, drive down. Shouldn't be too big a deal running with a bad drive seal, especially for a short time, AND if your going to get it repaired anyways. Also, don't forget, you still have to run "on the muffs" in order for your heat exchanger to work properly. Last but certainly not least, we all expect video of this thing running. :lol:

RotaryRacer · **Posted:** Sun Nov 16, 2014 7:12 pm

If it were me, I'd pull the drive off (to prevent damage to the water pump) and try to dry fire it before I did anything else. Also, this removes the risk of damaging the drive, u-joints or gimbal.

If you can get it to start and run for a couple of seconds, shut it down and put it back together and get the muffs on and let her run. There is a high likelyhood that the carb will need to be rebuilt, so it may not run well or at all but it is worth a shot.

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

northeast got the best of me.... winter came early... fillling the cylinders with marvel mystery and getting it covered for winter until spring. buying a motor for it incase worst case scenario...

ric · **Posted:** Mon Nov 17, 2014 6:58 pm

Can you please name your boat "Flyin Hawaiian"??

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

Decided im going to buy a new motor plug and play, already has the 4" upgraded heat exchangers and alternator upgrade, runs great with low hours.... pics to follow... MY QUESTION IS: I have a 3.7L in their now that says 180 on the top of the motor will this one fit and connect to my existing outdrive?

ric · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:56 pm

Oh sweet it's the upgraded 4bbl model

4windancer195 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:59 am **Posts:** 35

is that a yes ric? i have a 4bbl carb on my motor now, swapping my carb on

www.iFourWinns.com

UPDATE ON MY 1987 GREAT BUY!

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