99' sundowner Wont even try to start?

ProfitOfDoom · **Joined:** Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm **Posts:** 55

The other day I changed my oil and after that I started it up,rechecked and topped off,and that was the last time I started it up,That was Friday. Then I removed the raw water pump,checked and replaced the impeller and today "Monday" I just bolted it back in,tightened water hoses and hooked up the garden hose as I was going to start it and run it to check for leaks and Nothing...

Battery is full,everything works,from lights,radio,trim drive etc. Its just like its dead and wont even try to crank. The kill switch still has the latch on it and pressed in,the throttle is still in neutral,well it looks like it is anyway. Im unfamiliar with this boat,but I know on my old boat it had a bravo 3 and I was told you dont move the shift lever if the boat isnt on,Hows this duo prop can you shift it when its off,I didnt want to try to force it?

Please let me know if you think of anything to check,Thanks!

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon May 16, 2016 1:03 pm

Does it make clicking sounds or anything?

rpengr · **Posted:** Mon May 16, 2016 1:13 pm

Well I would certainly try moving the shift lever to make sure it's in nuetral. It won't hurt anything to shift without the engine running. Next check the 50amp breaker (red button) on the engine.

Graham R · **Posted:** Mon May 16, 2016 4:25 pm

After doing the impeller etc, you might well have disturbed the big multi pin wiring connector on the box containing the breakers on the starboard riser; a bad connection there is quite well known issue.

signalstan · **Posted:** Mon May 16, 2016 6:13 pm

two weeks ago I had to tow my friends 1999 searay 270da 15 miles because it would not crank .it was a 90 amp fuse on the starter solenoid it killed all power to the engine before it got to the circut breaker on top of the motor

GottWhat · **Posted:** Mon May 16, 2016 7:47 pm

signalstan wrote:

two weeks ago I had to tow my friends 1999 searay 270da 15 miles because it would not crank .it was a 90 amp fuse on the starter solenoid it killed all power to the engine before it got to the circut breaker on top of the motor

That same fuse blew on my Cobalt last year (my fault). If I remember correctly, I had no power to anything when the fuse was blown. Might be how my boat is wired though. It sure was a PITA to get to.

In my H180, I had power to some things but no power to the starter. It ended up being a wire on the back of the kill switch fell off.

ProfitOfDoom · **Joined:** Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm **Posts:** 55

I checked the starter wire,Thought maybe when I pulled off the water hose I might have pressed down and loosened it or something but it felt like it was on there good. I tried to crank it after and nothing,then I just twisted the key in the ignition back and forth real quick and it fired up. So maybe a bad connection in my ignition switch? Right after that I tried starting it up about 5 or 6 times real slow and it worked everytime. Its been sitting a few days now since then,after I install my fishfinder im going to see how its acting,Anything to check in there,or is this something that just has to be replaced? Thanks!

GottWhat · **Posted:** Thu May 19, 2016 12:31 pm

It could be your ignition switch. Luckily, they are cheap <$20.

LouC · **Posted:** Thu May 19, 2016 5:34 pm

Someone on this or another board reported an intermittent problem were the engine was cutting out and it turned out to be nothing more than a loose connection on the back of the ignition switch...so check that; and they are cheap & easy to replace....

joet · **Posted:** Fri May 20, 2016 4:49 am

I had a similar problem on my 98 5.7Gsi and it was the starter relay. Mine was also intermittent, it would usually start first turn when cold but would have nothing sometimes when trying to start after running for a while. Turn the key several times and it would usually start. First thing I did was check all connections then replaced the ignition key. Finally had a Volvo mechanic from the dealer where the original owner bought it look at it after getting towed it but he could not duplicate the problem. I had the mechanic at my small marina look at it and he replaced the starter relay and I have not had a problem since and that was 4 years ago.

ProfitOfDoom · **Joined:** Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm **Posts:** 55

I tried starting multiple times since the problem and it started each and every time. Finally put it in at my dock and was fine took it out the next day on the maiden voyage all was good,so we stopped and hung around on the water for about a hour,tried to start it her up to head in and Nothing! Played around looking for problems and kept trying to start it and it finally kicked over.

It was doing the same thing,Turn the key get power to everything but just not to crank it,No clicking or anything,Just Nothing.

I guess it could be the ignition switch "but I dont think so" but next time it does it,,is there a way to test the switch?

Where is this starter relay located? Usually if a starter or solenoid is bad you hear clicking or grinding or something,this is just dead silence.
Also notice on start up I been hearing a squeal,not real loud and only last for a half second,but Im pretty sure its not a belt. The mechanic replaced all bellows,and checked "not replaced the gimbal bearing" but he said it was good. Any idea what that might be while were at it? Thanks!

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:10 pm

To test the switch, you have to remove it from the dashboard and push it in and then go under the dashboard. It will have either 3 or 4 connections on it, the fourth is usually an Accessory position that you can use to run the radio, etc without having the ignition on. The other terminals are B=battery, I=ignition and S=Start. So to check you need a test light or a volt meter. Put the red terminal from the volt meter on the B terminal and the other should be grounded on a good ground and the meter should show 12V so you know that power it getting to the switch. Then put the red terminal from your voltmeter on the IG terminal, black on a ground and turn the switch to the next position from off, you should see 12V there. This position powers the ignition system and the gauges on most boats. Last try the same thing with the S terminal, hook up the voltmeter to the S terminal, black to ground and turn the switch to start, again you should see 12V. If not then its the switch. Other way to test it is to test for continuity, there should be continuity between the B and I terminals when you turn the switch to Ig, and between the B terminal and the S terminal when you turn it to start. You can test a new switch this way to make sure its good. Just set your ohmmeter on continuity.
I don't know where the starter relay is on this model but you should really get an engine wiring schematic to trace this problem. Often its corrosion or bad slave solenoids/relays.

Start at the battery and eliminate under charged batt, bad cables, loose or corroded terminals (get rid of wing nuts, use real battery clamps). Be sure to trace the ground cable from the battery back to the engine bell housing and make sure the terminal there is good and not corroded.
Next look at the terminals on the starter solenoid. Corrosion there is common because these parts are really not corrosion resistant and sometimes the water drain for the exhaust manifold leaks a bit and can leak right on those terminals which will rust them up over time.
Last check the relay (can substitute a standard Bosch style relay probably) or assist solenoid if there is one.

ProfitOfDoom · **Joined:** Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm **Posts:** 55

I pulled the ignition switch and it turns out I have a Cole Hersee brand switch,This switch does not have the 4 terminals. It has 6 pins and a plug. I ordered a replacement because it was cheap and easy to replace,Figure even if its not bad,I could just keep it on board for the future if I ever need one.
It was raining for the most part of the day,so I was unable to really go at it,but I did make it down there and tried removing the starter wires as I took a pic and seen they did in fact look pretty corroded....
Its extremely hard to get to,but I managed to pull the large positive off and wire brush it some,then it got dark on me. So tomorrow Im gonna head down there again and go for that switch wire which looks the worse,pull it clean it up and get some new lock washers and nuts to put on there. Stainless steal should be ok right?

Im also pretty sure I found the relays... I pulled the cover on the fuse box that is on top of the engine with the push button fuses and seen two relays in there. One had 4 wires plugged into it from underneath and the other looked like it just plugged in,So I'll have to some investigative work to see what is what. But hopefully I can put a end to this soon

LouC · **Posted:** Sun Jun 05, 2016 9:41 pm

Sounds good. Just make sure not to mix up the smaller wires on the starter solenoid. Of the smaller ones, the yellow/red wire is the start wire (that's fed power from the S terminal on the ignition switch) and that one goes on the S terminal on the starter solenoid.

ProfitOfDoom · **Joined:** Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm **Posts:** 55

Well I went up there and pulled the power cable and starter wire and wire brushed them up as well as the battery terminals and connectors the best I could and bought new nuts and lock washers to put back on,And it started everytime. I tried switching the ignition fast,real slow,normal,around 10 times within 10 mins and it cranked each time. Think that was my problem,just corrosion?
I also found where the starter relay lives,and took a picture of it. It says Hella 12v 4RD 960 388-31 Im thinking of getting one just to be on the safe side,does anyone know if this is a common part most marine stores will carry or even a napa or autozone etc.?

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99' sundowner Wont even try to start?

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