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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 2:14 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 1:46 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Erie, PA
Hey guys. I just recently acquired a 1989 FW 205 Sundowner from a buddy I work with. Its all in pretty good condition and ran great last year. I started it up in the driveway with the muffs on obviously and it started and ran great.

I took it out for the first time this past Saturday. It started at the launch without issues and I was able to get to the open water without issues but when I would get to half throttle, the engine would bog down and stall out. I was gradually increasing the speed being that I am still getting use to everything. It stalled out every time I got to half throttle. I figured it just needed some time in the water and to run to get old fuel from the winter out of it's system so I just chugged along. I got to where I wanted to be and fished for a bit.

When I went to go leave, I started the boat without any issues and let it warm up. When I would bring the choke down to put it into neutral, obviously the RPM's lowered but then the boat stalled out before I could even get into neutral. I tried 5-6 times and the same thing happened every time. I ended up having to get towed in.

I finally got home and backed into the driveway. I jumped in the boat and the first thing I checked was the fuel/water separator. It is still good and it was not overtaken by water so I know that gas is not the issue there. I started up the boat again in the driveway, with the muffs on of course, and it started without issues but when I would bring the RPM's down, the same thing happened. It bogged down and stalled out. I have not done anything to the engine. The only thing I have done so far mechanical wise, was put in a new blower and change the sending unit in the gas tank cause it was bad.

It was un-winterized correctly before I bought it. It seems like it is a fuel issue but I'm not 100% sure. It starts up just fine so I obviously know that it is getting gas but it seems that it is not getting enough when under load and put into gear. The thing that is confusing me is that it stalls when the RPM's are lowered so it shouldn't need more fuel to idle. This is my first boat and I am mechanically inclined but I am hesitant to dive on in being that boat engines are way different than car engines.

If you have any trouble shooting advice, tips, or tricks, please share. If I left any crucial information out, ask and I can give the best answer that I can.

Thanks!!

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~Zack


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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
Engine? Drive system?
When was it last tuned up? Your symptoms sound like a dirty carb, or a bit of water in the gas. Was the gas in the fuel filter really clear and clean? Also on old boats, you can have problems with the gas tank vent not venting, or the anti siphon valve on the tank sticking and restricting fuel flow. I usually like to go through the ignition system first (points, condenser, cap, rotor plugs, wires etc) then check the fuel system.

If this is an OMC Cobra system, a sticky or mal-adjusted shift cable can cause the ESA system to engage when it should not and cause stalling, etc. The ESA should lower the idle when you shift from in-gear (FWD, REV) to neutral ONLY. Never in gear. It will lower the idle from about 600 to 450....this is to take pressure off the siding dog clutch and allow the gearcase to shift to neutral.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 10:41 am 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 1:46 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Erie, PA
Lou -

I'm not sure when a tune up was last done. Probably 2-3 years ago and that is on my list to do. Just now money is tight so I keep pushing it off.

I know the carb was rebuilt twice. From other people I have been talking to, they said it seems like a clogged jet.

The gas was clean the tank vent is clear and the anti siphon valve is good.

Everything seems to narrow it down to a fuel flow issue.

The shift cable should be alright as it ran great last year without issues.

Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to replace the fuel filter just because it wouldn't hurt and then see about someone looking at the carb. I've never messed with big carbs like this so I am iffy on doing it myself.

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PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2017 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
2 bbl or 4 bbl
GM v-6 v-8 or Ford v-8?

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 1:46 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Erie, PA
Lou -

I believe it is a 4 BBL and it is a GM V-6.

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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
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Location: Long Island NY
If its a GM 4.3 V6 4bbl, (Quadrajet) there is a small inlet filter that is inside the carb inlet, where the fuel line screws in, that people forget to change. Might be worth a look. The Q-Jet is not an easy carb to rebuild, it is one of the most complex ones but works well when properly set up.
OMC Cobra or Merc Alpha system?

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 3:16 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 1:46 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Erie, PA
My friend and I rebuilt the carb last night and put it back on. It was a Quadrajet. The inlet filter was pretty gummy. The kit I got was a Sierra kit from http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/pa ... num=983864. It had everything in it that I needed.

I ordered it this past Thursday and I had it in my hands on Saturday. Their customer service was awesome.

We are going to get back at it here in the next couple hours and all that we should have to do now is adjust the pins.

The left pin was out 3 1/2 turns and the right pin was out 4 turns. Stock settings are supposed to be 2 full turns each.

So hopefully once the carb is properly set, I should be good to go.

I'll let you know what the outcome is tomorrow.

Thanks again Lou!

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~Zack


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 4:49 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
Sounds good! those pins as you refer to them are the idle mixture screws. The way to adjust them is to warm the engine up and set your slow idle to about 600 rpm. Then slowly screw one in, till the idle starts to drop. Next unscrew it till it speeds up again, and then drops again. You want to set it to get the highest idle speed. After you adjust both screws go back and double check the slow idle and get it to about 550-600. The lowest smooth idle speed you can get helps with the outdrive shifting into and out of gear.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Profile  
 
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