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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:16 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
Posts: 55
I took my boat out the other day and was running it harder than normal,but not for a long time. But as I came in off the lake and slowed down,I looked down at my temp gauge and it was just a bit past the center. Which I never seen it over the center,So it wasnt in the red or even 3/4 of the way over,But just made me panic a bit. I put in a new impeller in at the beginning of last season,but I guess it could have gotten tore up a bit? Or maybe this is just all normal temp wise and im worrying for nothing?
But in any case I'd like to inspect it,but not sure if this can be done while docked? I think it's only 4 or 5 screws that hold on the cap on the impeller housing,If I remove this cap would water start gushing in?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:45 pm 
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Volvo engine? You can do this if its a Volvo or Merc Bravo power package because the pump is mounted on the engine and not in the drive like the Alpha. However, keep in mind that the pump & hose are below the water line so you should get something to securely plug the raw water intake hose. I've done the same thing with my OMC Cobra to replace the thermostat with the boat on the mooring. I've done full tune ups, oil changes, etc all with the boat on the mooring. I would try to do it on a day that is not windy though. So plug that hose, put a clamp on it and lift it up above the water line.

this would be way too soon for an impeller to go bad, unless you got in very shallow water and sucked up sand.
when was the last time you inspected the exhaust risers?

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 2:11 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
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Yes this is a volvo 5.7 gsi.
I never inspected the exhaust risers,This is my 2nd season with this boat. Possible to have blockage in there of some sort?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Yes corrosion and rust flakes in the riser water passages can cause the engine to run hotter. Usually the risers will be obviously hotter than usual. It's a good idea to pick up an IR temp gun and leave it on the boat to take resdings. A sticky engine thermostat can cause the same problem.
Now mines an OMC but normal readings with everything working right were 155 right under the thermo housing on the intake manifold (I found this area seems to correlate most closely to the temp gauge);
At idle the risers run at about 90-110. After running on plane they would go up to about 135 but cool off after running at low speed for a few minutes .
Normal engine temps were 160-175.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 7:49 pm 
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If it's a Merc i wouldn't do it in the water.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 28, 2017 8:30 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:36 pm
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Location: Middle TN
Volvo 5.7gsi; no problem changing the impeller in the water. Once you pull the impeller housing away from the hb, just keep the housing pulled up as high as you can. I bungee cord will help a lot. You'll see where the water line is and how high the housing needs to be.
Be careful when you tighten the 4 small bolts on the housing. Mine were brass and will twist off with a small amount of torque.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:54 am 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
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Well I thought it might be the impeller,But I bought a new one and pulled the current one out and it was 100% looking great. So thats not my problem.
I do in fact have a ir temp gun,,I will take a few tests and see what it says.
Think it could be the thermostat? I never put one in,,or know when the current one has been changed last. I guess it would be a good idea to change it out anyway,as a cheap an easy diy fix.

I see there is a water pump on there,Im assuming if it was bad,,there would be belts squealing or breaking and maybe the water pump itself growling from a bad bearing or something,,there is no sound coming from it,and seems to be fine. So I assume its not my water pump?

So apart from the risers,,nothing left in a cooling system. So if I replace the stat. and still see irregular temps,,more than likely its my blocked up risers huh? "I will pay more attention by feel and ir temp gun to see how they are on next run"

Again it's not over heating just seem's to run hotter than usual,Like when idling at the dock and it runs 5-10 mins the temp from just sitting there reaches close to the middle of the gauge. It also seem to cool a bit as I pick up speed on the lake,,like if I sit there and idle in the lake and let it reach the middle of the gauge and then take off,,the temp will get cooler then after awhile reach back up to around the middle of the temp gauge "maybe a tad past" but not close to 3/4 mark or in the red danger zone on the gauge.

So I can eliminate the impeller, I'll check the temps of risers and probably replace the stat. after all that I guess it's time to check the risers,,If it is the risers,Can they be cleaned out,,or is it just time to replace them?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:37 pm 
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Starfish

Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:53 pm
Posts: 55
I replaced the stat and still the same problem. Idling at dock for about ten minutes brings the temp gauge to the middle and doesnt really move from there. Took a ir temp reading at the dock and the risers were about 95-99 degrees,the port side riser always seems a few degrees hotter. As I go down the river temp doesnt come down at all,pretty much stays about at the middle. Hit the lake and took a lil ride at around 3,300rpm and held it there and the gauge read a bit hotter,like a needle or two widths past the middle. After about 5 mins of that ride I slowed down and popped the hatch and took another reading now the risers were reading between 135-139 degrees and the intake manifold was around 105-110 degrees. Think this sounds ok,,or think I need to pull the risers and take a peek?

Just do it like the stat and impeller in the water,,Clamp the hose and pull the risers?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:35 pm 
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This may not be your issue and I don't know that it may matter when your Drive is in the water.

At the end of the season last year as I was winterizing my boat I had it running on the muffs and noticed it was getting hotter than normal so I shut it down and realized I wasn't sucking up water.
Fast forward to the beginning of the season I changed my impeller with no change.
So now focused my attention on an obstruction in the drive but found nothing. At this point I removed the Drive and separated the upper and lower halves. Between those two halves is a copper tube that has a rubber seal on each end both of which were cracked and split. I purchased a seal kit and reinstalled the Drive and now I have full flow to the impeller pump and all is well.

If you run your boat on muffs and see water coming out between the two halves it is time to change the seals.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2017 4:29 am 
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Location: Ohio
If the boat still has the original VDO dash in it that could also be the problem, these have many known problems. Mine started out as erratic oil pressure readings which were confirmed false with a mechanical gauge. My temp gauge would also read very high when I plugged a air pump into 12v socket to blow up a tube. I replace the whole dash but I don't think they are available any longer.

There are many threads about them on here.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 11, 2017 4:43 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 3:57 pm
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Could definitely be the risers or exhaust manifolds, but before you spend the $$$, it might be worth mentioning, when you replaced the last impeller, if it was missing any of the arms, it's very important to locate the pieces of rubber. They have a tendancy to get caught in the 90-degree fitting at the front of each manifold and will create enough of a blockage where you might not overheat, but notice the difference in temp.

If it is the riser/mainfold, don't wait on getting it taken care of... cold seawater/lakewater leaking back into your heads after shutting off the engine is really not good. I kept getting hydrolocked and couldn't figure out how water was getting in the engine. I swapped the manifolds and risers from port to starboard (and vice-versa) and found that the water ended up in cylinders on the opposite side. Replaced the manifolds and risers and all was great again.

Good luck and happy boating.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:50 am 
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I think you had a thread on the Hull Truth site that I replied to, and basically if you take IR temp gun readings like I described:
intake manifold right under thermo housing (normal, 145-155 or so with a 160* stat)
risers, usually will be 90-100*F at idle, they will come up to approx. 135* after coming off plane

Then you are not overheating, you need to check the sending unit in the intake manifold, wiring and dash gauge.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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