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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:03 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
Hi Guys,

So I have an '89 Sundowner 205 with a dual battery system. I removed one of the batteries about a week ago to charge it because it was dead - I think. This battery also has the heavier gauge wire attached to it that runs to the battery switch. The other battery was pretty dead I thought because I left the battery switch on for a few days and then it wouldn't crank over - just clicked, but all of the electrical equipment still worked; i.e. the bilge, blower, radio, etc. I removed this battery as well to charge it, brought it back today, installed it - and now the only thing that works is the auto-bilge pump. It wont turn-over, won't even "click", and no other electrical device works. HELP.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:07 pm 
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both of your batteries may be done. how old are they? just b/c some of the items work doesn't mean you have enough juice to turn your starter. You can take your batteries to autozone and they will tell you if they are still good or not.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:03 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
one of the batteries is new, the other i'm not sure of...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:38 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
after doing some research, i'm starting to think that my 1.5 amp charger may have overcharged the batteries?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 7:32 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
MORE PROBLEMS....in my boggled mind-set I managed to connect one of the battery's cables backwards - battery switch was in the off position, both batteries sparked a little - but surprisingly no wires burnt, couldn't find any blown fuses - yet...is there a circuit breaker on the 5.7 Cobra?...Is the battery fried? Going to Autozone tomorrow to have the battery checked...PLEASE HELP!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:12 pm 
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Location: Miami, FL
I would start to troubleshoot as follows...

Verify u didn't mess up the new battery
Remove the other older battery out of the equation
Get a wiring diagram
Connect the new battery (if good, if not get another)
Try and start it then.

Report what happens then

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:31 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
I have the factory owner's manual for the boat...not much help...checked the fuses behind the helm - couldn't really see much it was getting dark...will try what you suggested in the morning and report back...thanx!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:04 pm 
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Right now all you need is the wiring diagram for your battery switch to make sure nothing gets wired backwards again...

Let us know what happens tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:28 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
Well, got the new battery out - had it tested and it was OK, but tested at 1.5 amps!...so I'm assuming that''s why nothing was working when I reinstalled it after the charge...time for a new charger I suppose. Also, I found one of the large 60amp fuses coming from the main harness had blown, so I need to replace that as well...going to look for the fuses tomorrow and re-install the battery...[fingers crossed]


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:35 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
You might want to get a battery with the caps on it, that you can check with a hydrometer the old fashioned way, the only easy way to check the rate of charge on a maintenance free battery (no removable caps) is to use a digital voltmeter. There are some big fuses in the engine harness connectors that are over the rear of the engine, check both. Then, what I do when I buy a new battery is: paint a big red PLUS sign under the pos terminal on the batt, this will help in not connecting them the wrong way in a dark engine compartment. It's good to have the dual batt system, I put one in my old 88 Horizon, but you also want to check the cables, and the areas where they ground to the engine block, to make sure there is no corrosion and the cables are tight. Finally you might need to check the switch itself to make sure it has continuity in each switch position except OFF, you can use an Ohmmeter for that. Good idea to have a volt-ohm meter as part of the boat tools. Finally, it's common for the starter connections to get rusted, because on the exhaust manifolds there is a drain, that if it's not tight, will leak water onto these connetions. If it's a raw water cooled boat in salt water, those connections can rust really badly in no time. So check that out as well, if the starter is old and rusty I'd probably replace it. Make sure you use a marine starter if you do have to replace it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:01 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:24 am
Posts: 14
Location: North Shore, Long Island, NY
LouC wrote:
You might want to get a battery with the caps on it, that you can check with a hydrometer the old fashioned way, the only easy way to check the rate of charge on a maintenance free battery (no removable caps) is to use a digital voltmeter. There are some big fuses in the engine harness connectors that are over the rear of the engine, check both. Then, what I do when I buy a new battery is: paint a big red PLUS sign under the pos terminal on the batt, this will help in not connecting them the wrong way in a dark engine compartment. It's good to have the dual batt system, I put one in my old 88 Horizon, but you also want to check the cables, and the areas where they ground to the engine block, to make sure there is no corrosion and the cables are tight. Finally you might need to check the switch itself to make sure it has continuity in each switch position except OFF, you can use an Ohmmeter for that. Good idea to have a volt-ohm meter as part of the boat tools. Finally, it's common for the starter connections to get rusted, because on the exhaust manifolds there is a drain, that if it's not tight, will leak water onto these connetions. If it's a raw water cooled boat in salt water, those connections can rust really badly in no time. So check that out as well, if the starter is old and rusty I'd probably replace it. Make sure you use a marine starter if you do have to replace it.


Thanx, LouC...like I said in a previous post, and to reinforce what you said - one of the big 60 amps did blow; going to replace that one tomorrow. The starter is about a year old, and has a nice rubber boot over the connections. I checked them yesterday and they look practically new. I removed the battery switch as well which is pretty new, and all the connections are clean and tight - the cables are like new and a good heavy gauge, however I will still check the continuity as you suggested. And the batteries will be tattooed with "+" signs tomorrow as well. :mrgreen:

I just hope no other damage occurred as a result of the reversed polarity...

BTW thanks to everyone for their responses and help - I really do appreciate it....hopefully a good charge and the new fuse gets me back underway!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:27 pm 
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Location: Miami, FL
Sounds like your gonna be alright. let us know how it turns out. Good Luck!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:10 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:59 pm
Posts: 5
Currently having some issues with my 1996 205 sundowner. Just recently replaced my battery with a blue top optima marina battery. When I turn the key into the "on" position all the dials become active on the instrument panel however when I go to turn the key to the start position I get absolutely nothing. It is almost like the battery is not even connected, no clicking like a dead battery or any noise what so ever. So, this afternoon I first load tested the battery, it checked out ok. Then I checked to see if I had 12v at the starter which I did. Next, I tested to see if the ignition switch was bad, by measuring 12v in the on position and the start position, which it did. My dad and I believe that it is the starter relay or starter switch (not sure of the proper terminology). Does this seem plausible and if so how can you test or bypass the relay/switch to narrow in on the problem? Is there anyone else with problems like this? Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:30 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:59 pm
Posts: 5
Do any of you use any type of battery terminal prottectant on the battery terminals and where the red wire connects to the starter, as I have noticed that my cable ends are pretty corroded. What is the best way to clean them? Thanks for your input.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:00 pm 
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Location: Miami, FL
I use terminal cleaner. If it is really bad sand paper or emory(sp?) cloth will help out. Then make sure to put some dielectric grease to help reduce future corrosion

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