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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2020 10:50 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:57 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Twin Lake, MI
I just bought my 2004 245 Sundowner two weeks ago. It's been mostly great so far but there are a few issues here and there that I'd love to be able to chat with other owners about.

For instance, I've had a couple times where when I turn off the boat after using it for a little while (like to pick up a tuber/skier), it doesn't want to start up at all. It doesn't even want to try to turn over. There is absolutely nothing. I'm getting plenty of battery power to crank it and all of the electronics are working well, but there isn't even clicking. One battery is brand new and the other checks out as good and I have made sure it's charged. After we sit for about 20 minutes, and about the time we've called for a tow, it starts right up. This has happened on a couple occasions in the last week. I'm lost. Every time it's worked well after that initial hiccup.

If it help, it's got the 5.7 Gxi Volvo Penta.

I picked up a new ignition switch that I'm going to start with, but I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I plan on picking up a solenoid tomorrow also, but need to get the engine serial number off it.

Any thoughts?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2020 9:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5661
Location: Long Island NY
Do you have wing nuts securing your battery cables?
If so get rid of them and use lock nuts; I have automotive style but marine grade clamps bolted onto the cables.
I would:
Get a wiring diagram for your model and check all the check all the connections you
can get to:
Connections on the starter solenoid, assist solenoid and ignition switch. Lastly make sure that the battery negative cables where they bolt to the bell housing (behind the exhaust hoses) are clean and tight. If you see green corrosion traveling up the wire of the cable replace them.
Years back I had a similar problem; water dripped from a drain on the starboard exhaust manifold right on the starter solenoid terminals which led to an intermittent no crank condition. I removed the starter replaced the solenoid and had to re terminate all the wiring for the starter (all corroded).
As an example if the assist solenoid is in a place where water can leak on the terminals and there you go...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 8:24 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:57 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Thank you so much for the tips!! I can't tell you how much I appreciate you reading and responding with help.

I started with replacing the ignition switch. I would have replaced the solenoid also, but I couldn't easily get one without running into Grand Rapids on Friday, so I took the chance of just replacing the ignition switch. The old one was beat up a bit, but didn't seem in terrible condition. But I started with only that, I also tightened a few of the other connections along the way to the starter. The wire going into the solenoid was a tiny bit loose, but not bad. But I don't think tightening it would be a bad thing at all.

The boat stopped and started back up like a champ all day on Saturday. I'm hoping I fixed the problem.

If anyone else has had this similar problem and found different fixes, I'd still love to hear about them, just in case...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2020 8:16 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
I’ve owned this boat 18 years and it’s 32 years old..and it’s sits on a salt water mooring all season...so I’ve become well acquainted with electrical issues and corrosion. Just remember DC electricity has to travel from the battery positive back to the battery negative for anything to work. Corrosion causes excess resistance which disrupts the circuit. Over the years I’ve replaced all the battery cables, installed a dual battery system, cleaned nearly all the major connections etc. Get an electrical schematic for your model and remember it’s all color coded to make it easier. A test light and multimeter are good tools to have.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Last edited by LouC on Mon Aug 10, 2020 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2020 8:13 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:57 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Twin Lake, MI
Ok - so it happened to us again yesterday. Looks like it wasn't the ignition switch...

Time to replace the solenoid unless anyone else has any other ideas.

Now, it sure looks like the solenoid is part of the starter, but I know I can buy both of them separately. Any advice from anyone? I'm sure taking it out will reveal a different story.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2020 10:14 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Keep the in mind there are usually 2 solenoids, one on the starter and one in the engine harness that is installed to prevent voltage drop on the long wiring run from the ignition key to the starter. If either one is getting old or the connections are corroded you will get a no crank condition. I would want to find that assist solenoid in the harness first. I’d want to verify I’m getting close to battery voltage at the terminal with the yelllow red wire when the key is turned to start and you should feel that solenoid click when someone turns the key to start. If so then onto the starter. Yes you can replace the solenoid separately but getting the starter out can be a trial. It all depends on what access you have. I’d probably install a new starter just not to have to go thru that struggle again and test and replace the solenoid on the old one and keep it as a spare. As far as starters I’m pretty sure you most likely have the newer style permanent magnet gear reduction starter; these are smaller and lighter than the old style Delco direct drive starters. I recently replaced my old direct drive unit with an Arco pmgr starter. If you get a new starter make sure to use the right bolts. As you can imagine I have a lot of spare parts: starter, alternator, carb, fuel pump, distributor etc.
always test for voltage at the terminals before buying parts! often it is corrosion on terminals that causes resistance to current flow, and as long as you are patient you can easily remedy that.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 8:51 am 
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I had a 5.7gi that had a bad solenoid, which was part of the starter, not separate. So you have to buy the whole starter/solenoid. Same thing, no click or anything. It was only a 4 year old boat. Occasionally it would not turn over but if you kept turning the key it would eventually work. That was my sign and I replaced the starter/solenoid. It was relatively cheap, I think like $120, just make sure its a marine starter and not an automotive starter so it's ignition protected.
You can try tapping the solenoid with the wood handle of a hammer or something like that when it doesn't start to see if it frees it up.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 12:42 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Depending on which starter you have you can replace the solenoid separately, I put a new solenoid on my old direct drive starter and used it another 7 years. The solenoids for the newer style PMGR starters are different from the old style DD starters.
For instance I have an ARCO PMGR on it now and you can buy solenoids for these, just like you can for the DD units.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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