www.iFourWinns.com

Anyne install a fuel flow meter on a 245? I'm interested in hearing where you mounted the meter and how easy or difficult the installation process was.

thanks

Jim

I had a Navman fuel flow meter in my 225 Sundowner. My boat came with a Navman GPS unit allready installed so all I had to do was add the fuel flow transducer. I had my local mechanic put it in for me and in watching him, it was pretty simple. I believe it has to be after the fuel pump and below the water seperator. What he did was remove the metal fuel line and installed a new one that would allow for the fuel meter to sit vertically. Since the transducer was made of a hard plastic, we were unable to attach the metal fuel line directly to it, so we added a very short piece of heavy duty rubber fuel line on each end of the transducer and attached it to the metal fuel line.

After having a fuel meter, I could never go without. It really helps when cruising. It enables you to adjust your trim tabs and trim tilt to get optimum fuel economy.

I don't know if any of that made sense, but I hope it did.

Jim,

I've fitted a Navman fuel flow meter on my 2004 245. I originally wanted to fit the 2" display where the blank gauge is on the LHS of the dash, but the Navman gauge is too deep and it would have neant a lot of glassfibre cutting to fit it (I have since fitted a Xintex petrol detector gauge there, which is not as deep). I eventually fitted the Navman gauge on the LHS of the lower dash, that about the height of the stereo control unit on the RHS.
Since then I have fitted Navman Chartplotter, which can also display fuel data, so the 2" gauge is now unused. FYI, the senders for use with a plotter have a different connector plug to the sender used with the 2" gauge, but an adaptor cable is available. On an earlier 245, which would have had the same dash as my 1999 225 (VDO instrument pack), it would be necessary I guess to fit the gauge on a horizontal surface.

In the engine compartment, I disconnected the fuel hose from the inlet side of the fuel pump/ filter pack on the engine and fitted that hose to an extra fuel filter ( as recommended by Navman). Then, a hose from the extra filter to the sender (which is vertically mounted), and a hose from the sender to the fuel pump pack. I recommend the cable from the sender be well attached to the hose with cable ties very close to where it exits the sender, as it's easy to damage the cable where it comes out of the sender if you're struggling to change the impellor on a FWC engine!( the potting compound is very brittle and extends into the cable, so it can snap off!). I've attached the sender and extra filter to the horizontal surface just below the back of the battery selector switch box.

I was amazed how much trim, trim tab position and speed affect fuel consumption: to a certain point, higher speed give higher gph but greater MPG!).

Regards,

Graham

I put a Fowscan 5500 on my FW255 in the first 10 hours of operation. As stated by others above there was not enough room in the spare gage slot on the left hand side of the instrument panel. I did find a Faria clock that matches the existing instrument style to go there for about $40 and it fits perfectly. The Flowscan meter I mounted at a 45 degree angle on the flat part of the instrument panel, just to the right of the fireboy indicator. This would be just to the left of the center of the instrument panel. It was somewhat of a chore to cut an ellipsoid into the fiberglass without messing up the padding on the top surface. Be sure there is clearance below the gage. Cut, measure, cut, measure, try to fit, cut, try to fit, cut............. for about two hours.

The bottom front of the gage rests on the padded instrument panel while the top body of the Flowscan is visible and slants into the helm. I covered the exposed area with some extra headliner I found behind the storage cabinet mounted on the wall in the cuddy. The storage cabinet is easy to remove and gives access to lots of important wires. The back face of the Flowscan is under the helm and all wires are hidden. I also understand that a surface mounting bracket is available from boatfix.com.

The affect of drive trim and tabs on fuel consumption is a suprise. I am still experimenting on how to best set up the boat for most efficient fuel consumption. I first determined (on land) the drive trim setting where the propeller thrust is parallel with the keel. On the water I set the drive trim to the fastest GPS speed at a given RPM. This is often very close to the trim setting determines where the propellers are parallel with the keel. So knowing were to start saves some time. Next I use the trim tabs for either greater speed or a little smoother ride (just to the point where the bow stops bobbing). The retrim the drive for more speed. Often I find that after using the trim tabs I can trim the drive closer the point where they are parallel to the keel.

After a few changes in settings back and forth between the drive trim and tab trim, I get great mileage. In fact my 320 hp 5.7 l Volvo in my FW255 gets better mileage than my 17ft bowrider powered by a 120 hp carbureted two-cycle engine. I am still breaking in the new engine and recording a set of speed, and fuel gallons per hour at various RPM setting on each trip in the boat. This data is plotted and given a little time, I will know how get the most out of the boat under a range of water conditions. Without this information you are only guessing as to what trim settings are efficient. To me, this is part of the fun of boating - optimizing the running condition. But then again I may a little nerdy about instruments, data sets and analyses. My boat is most efficient at over 30 MPH.

Now If I could just figure out how to get the anchor locker to drain with the drain hole in the bow located a good 8 inches above the locker bottom.

_________________
2006 Sundowner 255, 5.7 GXi, 320 hp
"Simply Irresistible"

Same problem with my anchor locker, both drains at the same height and way above the bottom of the locker. I did consider casting in some epoxy/ filler to bring the bottom of the locker up to the height of the drains ( maybe even slightly higher and redrilling the same drain holes), but this would mean the nuts for the front eye would no longer be accessible ( but should never come loose as they would be compelely encapsulated). I might still do it, the anchor rope gets pretty slimy when it's in there, permanently wet!

As a matter of interest, are your trim tabs mounted symmetrically? On my 245 and on others I've seen photos of, one trim tab cylinder is mounted slightly higher on the transom than the other. I asked FW, they said the tabs are mounted using a jig, so they are all like that for a reason (maybe to compensate for the weight of the batteries and the driver always on the starboard side ? )

Regards,

Graham

Do any of you have some pictures of your installs, particularly the gauge mounting. I don't have any "vertical dash space" on my 22.5 SD, so I may have to go with a surface mount up top, maybe behind the compass off to one side.

Rod

_________________

2010 278 Vista
5.7 GXi DP

Past:
1999 225 Sundowner
5.7 GSi SX

Rod,

Sorry, I've no pictures; mine is the later dash type, so not the same as on your '99 in any case. However, I did have a '99 225; isn't the compass mounted on top of the instrument binnacle? Could be difficult to do a neat installation of a gauge next to it. From memory, there's quite a bit of space underneath the matt black strip on the dash, in front of the instrument pod, where a gauge could be fitted in a horizontal position; easier to read than my vertically mounted one. There are also some 45 degree instrument binnacles available for things like rally cars. That might be an option. Measure up and check for wires behind where you'll cut 10 times before cutting the 2" hole!

Regards,

Graham