www.iFourWinns.com

Hello everyone,
My names Jerry and I live here in NC. Just recently purchased my first boat, well I had owned a sea eagle Foldcat 375fc which I traded for a Jetski after I purchased my four winn but thats another story.

I purchased a 1997 Four Winns Sundowner 225 with the 5.7l GL motor and Volvo Penta outdrive. I was looking at a few boats and this one seemed like the best deal. Purchased for about 5500 dollars cash off craigslist, the only issue with it is the interior was weathered a bit which I plan to redo over the winter and the faceplate on the sony deck no longer worked. All electronics work, boat ran fine when I purchased it.

I took it home and started it up once again it ran fine, hooked it up to the water hose.
I had to replace the blower as it didnt work which I put it a Turbo 3000. After a few days of working on it I ran the battery down a bit so I figured that was my problem. I took it out to the lake and before launching it tried the motor and it gave me nothing, all electronics worked still but the motor wouldnt even attempt to fire. Turn the ignition and the battery amps on the gauge just goes to zero. I figured the batteries just didnt have enough juice so packed it up with my tail between my legs and headed home.

Got the batteries charged up and I still have the same issue. No clicking from the starter or anything.
My uncle who is a mechanic and experienced boater was looking at it today got the batteries charged up and feels it could be the starter silenoid, neutral safety switch or something of that nature. I dont feel the engine is shot or anything just something electrical. Does anyone have any advice or ideas on what could be causing this. Yes the boat was in Neutral when attempting to start lol.

Im sort of clueless as to what to do, dont really got the funds to take it to a boat mechanic and let them tinker around so im looking at what could possible be causing my issues. Any advice would definately be appreciated. Im sure someone has had issues like this before.
The only things I personally have done since I purchased was to put in a new blower, which works great. The blower fuse kept blowing so I did replace it. While trying to figure out the radio I did pull pretty much every fuse to see if any more of them were blown. Replaced with the correct amp fuse in every slot. So as of now im unsure if I did something or what. All I know is I have an investment sitting which I havent even had a chance to put in the water yet.

Thanks for any advice as to what could be wrong with it.

Jerry

This is something I found from googling. It is in reference to a 1998 Four Winns Horizon, not sure if it would apply to the Sundowner as well.



So you hit the ignition switch so you can go home and either nothing happens, or you here a click from the engine, but the starter doesn't crank......... Now what ???
If you have a test light, you can find out in only a few minutes what the problem is. I like test lights because they are faster and easier to use than a meter. A meter will work fine for all the tests.



We will start by assuming you have a good battery, clean tight connections with good battery cables of the proper size.
So, where do you start looking for your no start condition? That depends on what you hear. If you DO NOT hear a click, we will start at the ignition switch, if you hear a click, we will head for the engine compartment.
Let's say we have no click, and the shifter is in the neutral position and we have already tried wiggling the lever to be sure it's in neutral.
Grab your test light and head for the back of the instrument panel. Hook the clip to a good ground (usually on the fuse panel).
Now, touch the light to the B terminal on the ignition switch ( big red or red/purple wire) the test light should light. Now move the test light to the S terminal with the yellow/red wire and have someone turn the key to the start position. The test light should light, if not, you need a new ignition switch.
Let's say it lit up, so the switch is good. While the problem could be the neutral safety switch, it's a real pain to get to in order to test it. So let's check to see if we have power going through the neutral safety switch.



Time to head for the engine compartment.
Now, locate the slave solenoid on the engine. Notice the 4 wires to it?



Hook up your test light again with the clip on a good ground. Now touch terminal C of the slave solenoid with your test light and have your helper turn the key to the start position again. The light should light up? If it did, touch your test light on terminal A, if it lights, hook your test light lead to it, and put the probe on terminal D (the ground) if it doesn't light, then you have a bad ground for the slave solenoid and without that ground the slave solenoid will not work.
If the test light did not light up, then the problem is 1 of 3 things either the connection at the main engine harness plug is bad, or you have a bad neutral safety switch or a bad connection between the ignition switch and the slave solenoid.
If you are at home, this isn't a problem and you can track the problem down. But if you are out on the water what can you do???? Simple. Use a test lead on the slave solenoid to jump between terminals A and B or A and C and the engine will crank. Make sure the ignition switch is in the run position and the engine will start.

Welcome, sorry to hear you have problems. The information you have should apply to any Volvo Penta engine of that year.

Also, another thing to check is the safety lanyard. On my boat it is near the throttle control. There is a button that will have a clip attached to a lanyard. Remove it and nothing will work for the engine. I've accidently pulled mine while on the water and had a scare when the boat wouldn't start.

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Terry
Current: 07 Crownline 255 CCR cuddy - 350 Mag MPI/B3 "Casi Cielo"

Previous:97 245 Sundowner 5.7GI/SX

Tow vehicle: 1986 GMC 2500 Camper Special 454/TH400

Yea the kill switch lanyard is on there. It's just frustrating lol.

Have you checked the breakers at the engine (black box with red buttons on the starboard side riser)? Also, make sure the wiring harness where it enters that box is securely pushed in ( big rubber thing with a hose clamp around it); they do come loose on a regular basis.

Graham

hELLO!
I think I had the same problem as you do. I went to start the engine 9 miles out on a lake island and the engine did not start. I went and checked the battery, wiring, all the stuff that everyone is telling you to check which is fine.
Had the boat towed back to the dock. Service folks came in and put a screwdriver across the starter and it started right up. FInd out there are two relays under a bolted cover on the left hand top side of the engine, they do not show up on any electrical schematic. One is for the fuel pump, the other is for the starter. THe only place you find them is in the Volvo Penta parts drawing for the engine electrical system online. THey are cheap. !0-15 dollars each,and there is supposidly a spare. Something to check out in your boat.
The thing that really got me tweeked was, you can get stranded out in the middle of nowhere because of the cheap relay. My cost for this, was a lost day on vacation and $380.00 dollars. Yes I was definately pissed.
Thanks Volvo Penta
Captain Zero

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CAPTAIN ZERO

Merc, OMC and Volvo use a basically similar starting system, with a solenoid on the starter (except Ford engines) and an assist solenoid (Volvo uses a relay instead of an assist solenoid) to engergize the starter solenoid. You have to start with a freshly charged battery, and then you can use this trouble shooting link from Iboats to find out where the problem is....

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=342393

It is good idea to keep a spare soleniod or relay as well as a dist cap and rotor on board...now I also have spark plugs, and points n condenser but then I REALLY like to be prepared....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II