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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:43 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Thought of that too, do they have PVC valves or just breather hoses? If the have pvcs and they get clogged its possible to get pressure build up in the crankcase.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:22 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
Thread drift I know, I'm sorry for that, but I noticed you owned some Dorals before your Four Winns. I know Doral are now gone, but what they bult are still around. What sort of differences ( +/ -) did you find when you moved brand ? I was always very impressed by the 30 - 40 foot Dorals, as well as their 250 in boat shows around 2005 to 2006, but have never been on one when underway on the water.


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:25 pm 
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Location: Chester, UK
LouC wrote:
Thought of that too, do they have PVC valves or just breather hoses? If the have pvcs and they get clogged its possible to get pressure build up in the crankcase.


There's a PCV valve on a rocker cover, the starboard one if I remember correctly............but I'm getting old, so don't quote me ! Ye gods, compared to the myriad of inaccessible breather hoses on my transversely mounted Ford Duratec V6 car engine, it's such a simple system !


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:12 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
In the automotive application they always (well at least since 1963 or so) had a PVC, but in many older marine applications the breather hoses led right to the flame arrestor and the oil vapors were pulled (sort of) into the flame arrestor. The PVC works on vaccum, when the engine is at idle and low revs manifold vaccum is high and it pulls in the fumes from the crankcase vigorously, but at low vaccum (wide open throttle) not as much flows. The valves can get gunked up if the oil wasn't changed regularly but probably not true in this case.
Yes the small block Chev is a marvel of simplicity. There was a time when all the V-8s made here by GM, Ford and Chrysler were similar. Great simple inexpensive designs, there only flaw was weight and fuel consumption. My other favorite is the Jeep (AMC designed) 4.0 Straight Six....all cast iron, 7 main bearing crank, weighs as much if not more than some modern V-8s, service life, 200,000+ miles if maintained.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 12:48 pm 
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Posts: 762
Location: Lake St.Clair, Ontario, Canada
Graham R wrote:
Thread drift I know, I'm sorry for that, but I noticed you owned some Dorals before your Four Winns. I know Doral are now gone, but what they bult are still around. What sort of differences ( +/ -) did you find when you moved brand ? I was always very impressed by the 30 - 40 foot Dorals, as well as their 250 in boat shows around 2005 to 2006, but have never been on one when underway on the water.


We had a 1988 Doral Citation (25') and wanted to move up in size. Was happy with this Doral so we looked at a number of boats in the 30' range and really liked the 30' Doral Prestancia (also a 1988) in terms of its layout and style. We did want the twin 5.7 litre engines that was an option over the twin 4.3 litres and after some searching and negotiating we purchased the Prestancia.

After enjoying the Prestancia for about 7 years, we were expecting our first kid, so we took that oppoutunity to move up in size and years to our present 2001 328 Four Winns.

Because the 328 is 13 years newer we picked up cherry cabinets, fuel injection engines (throttle body) and volvo duoprops vs the Prestanica's counter rotating cobra drives. The 328 had a very similar layout to the Prestancia including port side lounge and "U" shaped dinette. What I really liked is although the 328 is about 50% heavier than the Prestancia the 328 has about the same on water performance with the twin 5.7's and probably even better docking characteristics as compared with the Prestancia due to the bite of the duoprops.

I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you had, otherwise, I'd better return this thread back to "engine oil". :)

Mike.

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- 2010 310 Mercury Inflatable

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- 30' Doral Prestancia
- 25' Doral Citation


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 7:07 am 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Yeah - I'm still confused by this whole thing....even after reading the chemistry lesson in the other thread

I can buy Volvo 30W Synthetic for $10/qt or I could buy Mobil 1 (or other brands) 10W40 Synthetic from Walmart for $7/qt or $25 for a 5qt jug....

Ultimately, since VP is now recommending and selling VP 10W40 Synthetic, is there an appreciable difference between their branded oil and a more easily purchased substitute?

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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:18 am 
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We're all changing our oil at such a short cycle that I think we're doing fine to use an "automotive" oil. I can't remember the last time I pulled the oil out of one of my boats and it was darker than my the oil I train out of the tow vehicle. Tell me that rust will develop inside an engine sloshed with oil regularly, no matter how little "corrosion inhibitors" there are, and I'll laugh in your face. :roll:


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 3:35 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Well it's hard to say if it matters over time but I think most of the members of this site are in freshwater areas. Salt water is a whole 'nother animal. We regularly have to change risers and manifolds at 5-7 years and the salt air gets into everything. I'm really surprised mine has lasted as long as it has.
One place you can get rust that can cause trouble is on the stems of exhaust valves. All it takes is a small leak between the riser and manifold at the gasket; the water can run down and go right into a cylinder. Also extended running at idle can allow a damp
mist to be pulled back into the cylinders and it can settle on the open exhaust valves when the engine is off.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Last edited by LouC on Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:30 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Lou - Since I boat in salt much of the time, I'm intrigued...

Is that to suggest that "marine" oil such as the VP branded oil is better for corrosion resistance?

Thanks as always!

Erik

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2003 Tahoe


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:36 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Yeah if it's NMMA rated one of the main differences is corrosion resistance

http://www.nmma.org/certification/certi ... /fc-w.aspx
Read this and make your own determination....

Its true marine engines lasted a long time even with car based oils but if you want the best you can have then you can choose to go that way.

http://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cab ... System.pdf

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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 Post subject: Re: Engine oil
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:07 pm 
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Posts: 2866
Location: Indiana
318boating wrote:
I wanted to change my oil before haul out. I have some questions. How many litres/gallons per 5.7 engine do I need to get? Can I use 10W30 car synthetic? Does using a brand like Royal Purple, Amsoil, or Mobil1 make a difference? Thanks ahead of time.

Shaun


Measure what you take out, and put that amount back in. Sucking the old oil out the dipstick tube doesn't allow you to get all the oil out.

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Previous Boats
'08 H240, '08 V318, '04 268, '04 225


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