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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 10:05 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 9:47 am
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Wow. Engine compartment is so tight we can barely see the bilge pump way back & between engines and see no way to access it to replace... or even to get to the wires and hose to move site for a new one. Tech guy says even if we remove BOTH manifolds, power steering, altenator (sp) and hatch lift mechanism it will still be a problem. Four Winns cust svc has not yet responded to my query. Has anyone replaced twin engine 288 bilge? How???? (This can't be the first one to fail.) Thanks!!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 1:03 pm 
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Location: Lower Niagara/Lake Ontario USA
Probably have better luck finding where the wiring to the existing bilge pump goes, cut and splice new wiring in, and then install a new (bigger is always better) pump in a accessible spot. Unless you wanna spend $500-800 removing an engine to replace a $60 pump.

Oh, and welcome to the forum! Where ya boat at? Tell us about yer boat, what year, color, etc? Lets see some pics too!

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 5:00 am 
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Shark

Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:25 am
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Location: Midlothian, VA
Yeah, best of luck trying to access that pump... I have actually had both center manifolds off of a 288 Vista that I was replacing manifolds and risers for a friend, and that center engine hatch lift post makes it a bear to get them in and out, much less try to squeeze in between there to get to the bilge pump...I dropped a wrench down in that part of the bilge while working and had a hell of a time just fishing that out. I think the idea of relocating that bilge pump to a more accessible place is a good one, but the problem is that any rainwater or bilge water that accumulates will always run to the stern, as those boats are stern-heavy anyway. Placing the pump farther forward ahead of the engines will allow quite a bit to accumulate before it kicks on. You will still have the benefit of having a bilge pump in the event of an emergency of some kind, but you will need to keep an eye on the bilge and maybe suck out the water with a shop vac periodically to rid that low area of water from washing, rain, etc. They do make bilge pumps that have a remote pickup or sump that can be used in areas where the lowest point isn't easily accessible, but you may have to do some checking around to see if you can find one that will work for your specific application.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Guppy

Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2014 9:47 am
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Thanks for the thoughtful input! I've also now heard from FourWinns support and a dealer. They say get a small guy with long arms and/or long screwdriver. But it appears that will still work ONLY after several structural/costly obstacles are removed -- and then trying after each is removed, one at a time -- until even a small human can finally sueeze to reach it (eg: hatch lift mechanism, water tank, power steering, alternator, and twin manifolds). Wires, etc. are too short to simply grab & pull loose and attach it elsewhere more forward. Even then, you are right, a 288 sits so low in stern that water will just pool back there. Outrageous that a critical, fungible component is installed where it cannot be accessed without a $1K++ hit. I can't be the first one to have this issue, but very surprised the only references to 288 bilge replacement issues posted on Internet have to do with the aft bilge, instead, which is easy to access. ??? :-/


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:17 pm 
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Location: Ontario
Are you 100% sure it's the pump?

Would hate to hear you got it out just to realize there was an issue elsewhere.

Also, is there room to mount a new pump to a board or something that could be slid to the back of the bilge and secured? Just thinking out loud...

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 8:27 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
That's what I was thinking, you could get a piece of flat stock aluminum and bend it at right angle. The pump n float n wiring could be attached to the far end and the angled end could be attached to a bulkhead. This way if it ever fails again, you simply remove the screws holding the vertical section of the bracket and lift the whole works out. Why could the rocket scientists in Cadillac, Michigan not think of this? I see crappy details on new boats like this and it makes me just keep the old one. I already have it the way I want, why start over and have to correct all their stupid mistakes?

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:24 pm 
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LouC wrote:
That's what I was thinking, you could get a piece of flat stock aluminum and bend it at right angle. The pump n float n wiring could be attached to the far end and the angled end could be attached to a bulkhead.

The only problem I see with that setup is you still have to get at the output hose from the existing pump to the thru hull. Unless you installed a new hose, but that would mean a new hole in the hull.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 2:17 pm 
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True, true. Now if you can get at the thru hull here's how I would do it:
Install the bilge hose on the pump. Put a hose clamp on the outlet end of the hose. Tie a string around this clamp. Get a helper to hold the string up as you slide the pump/switch assembly into the nether regions of the bilge. Then grab the outlet end of the hose to install it on the thru hull. If not just pull the engine that's in the middle of your way LOL (I'm speechless). I would take one look at the engine compartment on one of these, close it up and walk away. Lay over the engines to change batteries? Really? I see a ton of wasted space in the forward end of this style of boats, on all the nice cabin fittings, etc. Some of that space needs to be added to the area around the things that makes it go, you know..the ENGINES.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
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Location: Chester, UK
LouC wrote:
True, true. Now if you can get at the thru hull here's how I would do it:
Install the bilge hose on the pump. Put a hose clamp on the outlet end of the hose. Tie a string around this clamp. Get a helper to hold the string up as you slide the pump/switch assembly into the nether regions of the bilge. Then grab the outlet end of the hose to install it on the thru hull. If not just pull the engine that's in the middle of your way LOL (I'm speechless). I would take one look at the engine compartment on one of these, close it up and walk away. Lay over the engines to change batteries? Really? I see a ton of wasted space in the forward end of this style of boats, on all the nice cabin fittings, etc. Some of that space needs to be added to the area around the things that makes it go, you know..the ENGINES.....


These bilge pumps are pretty poor really, even the bigger ones that OEMS never fit because they can save a few dollars by fitting an inappropriate, inadequate one. Surely a remote diaphragm pump, with just the inlet in the inaccessible bilge would be better ? I have an Attwoood 1100 gph pump bought in Walmart in 2001. I never fitted as it has a strange 1-1/8" outlet ( suitable hoses etc unavailable here in the UK !). The pump clips into the base, but requires access to unclip it of course.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:26 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
After I had my little incident with the raw water intake hose popping off the P/S cooler on the rear of the engine and the Cobra impeller filling the bilge with salt water in no time, I got an emergency back up 2,000 gph Rule that I keep as an emergency pump. I have alligator clips on the wiring and a bilge hose already hooked up. If I ever had another incident like that I can drop it in the bilge, hook up the clips to one of the batts and hang the bilge hose over the gunnel.....Even on a boat with several pumps its nice to have one of these...provided that....you can reach the damn batteries....hint hint pay attention Four Winns engineers.....

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:59 pm 
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LouC wrote:
After I had my little incident with the raw water intake hose popping off the P/S cooler on the rear of the engine and the Cobra impeller filling the bilge with salt water in no time, I got an emergency back up 2,000 gph Rule that I keep as an emergency pump. I have alligator clips on the wiring and a bilge hose already hooked up. If I ever had another incident like that I can drop it in the bilge, hook up the clips to one of the batts and hang the bilge hose over the gunnel.....Even on a boat with several pumps its nice to have one of these...provided that....you can reach the damn batteries....hint hint pay attention Four Winns engineers.....


Lou, unfortunately I expect FW engineers don't know this forum exists


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 7:35 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
One can always hope lol...

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2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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