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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 6:25 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:21 pm
Posts: 19
new guy here and i have some questions. i have not searched for any posts so maybe some of you forum folks can point me towards the info im looking for or just answer some questions for me.

just purchased a 99 328 vista. Boat is in great shape overall but does needs some work. its gonna be a little bit of a project, shes been neglected since 2010. my background is i can fix just about anything, im a drag racer and engine builder and pretty much a do it myself type of person. But im unfamiliar with anything inherent to the engines in this boat, and some of the systems on this thing.. So with that ill ask a few questions and tell ya about what i bought..

It has 7.4 Gi volvo pentas. starboard engine runs fine. port engine has a miss and i can hear low compression in one cylinder when cranking it over. it popped a few times through the intake so i suspect a bad intake or exhaust valve... ive heard from a few mechanics at the marina that these engines have a tendency to tulip the valves?? i dont know the history of risers and manifolds. im going to boroscope the engine next week but i guess im just asking what some of you guys may have seen??

if i can just pull a head in this thing that would be much easier than pulling the whole block for a rebuild. and neither looks easy in this friggin thing..

2nd question, who is the best supplier for new full canvas?

We'll start with that. thanks guys.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2012 4:31 pm
Posts: 876
Location: Titusville, Florida
You might start with Great Lakes Boat Top for the canvas at
http://www.greatlakesboattop.com.
They have been a canvas supplier to Four Winns for many years. Otherwise, you could try your Four Winns dealer or a local canvas shop.

You sound like more of an engine guy than I am. The parts and parts lists should be readily available on line or through a dealer. I just looked on www.iboats.com and saw a parts listing for a similar engine. Find the engine model on the engine and see what you can find on line. I know, it still doesn't make it any easier to get at the engine while its installed in the boat. Since it has been inactive for a few years, is there a chance that you can get it running and it will straighten out, seal up, and work as expected?

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Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:10 pm
Posts: 2032
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Contrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum. We look forward to pictures.

The Tuliped Valve problem is normally on the Intake valves, usually caused by being "over-propped" (too much pitch), especially on under-powered cruisers using high power at low rpm. If a cruiser does a lot of "plowing" for extended periods (not quite up on a plane), that could be a cause. And as you stated, your symptoms indicate an intake valve problem. A 328 with twin 7.4s does not sound underpowered, so hopefully you just have a sticking valve that would improve with some use. Hopefully you can tell with your borescope examination.

There is no reason that you cannot remove the head while the engine is in the boat, but it is not a horrible job to remove the whole engine either. 2 experienced people can remove an engine in 2 hours.

Your engine building experience will serve you well. For the most part, automotive parts can be used. There are only a few main differences with these marine engines:
1. Some marine parts are "ignition protected" (no open sparks) to prevent igniting possible fuel vapors in an engine compartment ("ka-boom"). These are the Starter, Alternator, and Distributor.
2. Carburetors must be marine to ensure fuel vents and overflows are directed into the intake manifold. Carbs and throttle bodies have spark arresters instead of air filters. Fuel filters must not have glass bowls. Crankcase ventilation is directed to the carb or intake.
3. Water circulating pump should be marine (brass or sst impeller), and the Thermostat should be marine (brass and SST contruction and 160deg) unless the engine is a closed cooling system with antifreeze. If one of your engines is reverse rotation, the circulating pump must be reversible (straight vane type).
4. These engine should not be built up like race engines to produce 500HP at 8000rpm, unless you are actually racing and prepared for a very short engine life. These boats require engines that can work with a heavy load at 3000-4500 rpm for extended periods, and still have long durability.
5. The water cooled exhaust manifolds and risers are a headache all their own, which you can look up lots of information about them on this forum.
6. Use corrosion protection every chance you get. Products like Boeshield T-9 or Corrosion-X for external surfaces, Permatex/Aviation form-a-gasket or Tef-Gel on threads and mating surfaces, OMC triple-guard grease on lubricated components.

http://www.volvopentastore.com is a good source for engine diagrams and part numbers, even if you are going to your local marine supplier.

Ray

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prev. boats:
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'69 Jetstar 16ft Ski Boat, 115hp Yamaha
'68 Aluminum Jon Boat, 3hp Sears
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 5:56 am
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Location: Georgian Bay, Ontario
Removing the heads will not be an issue while in the boat. You will need to remove the rear bench seat and the rear piece of the fibreglass floor behind it. I have had the heads redone on my port engine. I had a tuliped intake valve with zero compression on the #6 cylinder.
As far as canvas I would just get a local shop to redo it.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 9:43 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:36 pm
Posts: 140
Location: Middle TN
Congrats on the boat! We still get a lot of compliments on our 328 and the performance is great.
I've had valve issues on both of my engines, about 6 months apart. I've got 5.7s and was able to pull the heads without removing engines. It was not a fun project, but I didn't have to remove the aft seat to pull the heads. Not sure how much room you have with big blocks.
As far as canvas goes, like others mentioned ask some locals to recommend a canvas shop. Great Lakes didn't start supplying the 328 until 2002. I wanted our top to attach directly to the arch like the newer models, so when it came time to replace the canvas, I called Great Lakes and explained what I wanted. It took some work, but I purchased an entire top and camper enclosure for a 2003 328 and reconfigured the entire top. I had to purchase all new frame, but I think it turned out great. They run 25% off promos from time to time, so be sure to ask.
It's a great boat, look forward to hearing some stories...

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2006 378 Vista
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2012 11:17 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I can only imagine how much fun removing a BB's cast iron heads would be, while curled up in a bilge! :lol: :P
If raw water cooled, use stainless steel head gaskets.
Please take & share photos with us all on your progress! :wink:

Daz.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 3:07 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:21 pm
Posts: 19
Hey guys, thanks for all the great information! I tried that great lakes canvas company and they dont stock anything prior to 2002. i'll keep digging on that.

does anyone have more info on how that rear seat fiberglass panel comes out? its appears to only be caulked in, but before i start porking on anything, i dont want to start breaking shyt...

I sure hope its just a valve and there is no cylinder wall issues such as rust from a bad riser etc because was spitting something out of the exhaust. i ran them quickly without water because i didnt want to rewinterize and just wanted to see if we had fire in both engines. If the bottom end is good then im just pulling the heads off and doing the top end. These motors only have 320 hours on them, original engines. 80psi oil pressure and no kinds of noise at all.

rpengr, thanks for the info! im not building any race engines for this thing! keeping her all stock. ive heard this boat will do 40mph? if so, thats fine with me. its does have those duo props on it. not sure if that matters? the plowing sounds pretty plausable. i have some pics so far and i'll let you guys know and post some as soon as i get em off my phone. thanks again everyone!

ps. where is the best deal on new risers and manifolds?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:43 pm
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Location: Tuscola, IL
Oldsmoduck wrote:
I ran them quickly without water because i didnt want to rewinterize and just wanted to see if we had fire in both engines.


With this, you'll want to check your raw water pumps out, as there will likely be a good chance you'll need to replace the impellers, especially if it had been sitting very long, and/or you ran it for very long (as in not really much time at all)...

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2004 Four Winns 328 Vista
1997 Larson Cabrio 290 - sold
1988 Rinker Fiesta Vee 248 - sold


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:43 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:21 pm
Posts: 19
ya, i plan n replacing those anyhow as a preventive measure. no telling when they were done last. are they in the outdrives? or is it those pumps hung off the lower side of the engines? i read a blip of info on the manuel that those were also water pumps?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 5:55 pm 
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Location: Georgian Bay, Ontario
That boat should do more than 40mph with the 7.4. I have had mine up to 46 mph with the 5.7GXI's
As far as the rear seat goes. You need to remove the back rest there are nuts for this inside the transome locker and possibly some inside the starboard storage locker. Then you will be able to access the screws that hold that fibreglass panel in. I had mine out within an hour. I also took out the middle partition that holds the split floor up.

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 6:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:43 pm
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Location: Tuscola, IL
Oldsmoduck wrote:
ya, i plan n replacing those anyhow as a preventive measure. no telling when they were done last. are they in the outdrives? or is it those pumps hung off the lower side of the engines? i read a blip of info on the manuel that those were also water pumps?


Yea, they'll be hanging on the motor.

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