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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:40 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:48 pm
Posts: 12
If anyone is looking for a bow roller that fits 1995 thru 1999 Vista 238, 258, & 278, please let me know. I am fabricating one for my boat now.
OEM part No. was 031-0358, no longer available.
thanks,
John

_________________
1996 256 Vista DLX
350-W Ford / OMC 5.8 FSI Fuel Injected
Volvo DP-S Drive


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:11 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:36 pm
Posts: 67
john, i may be interested for my 96' 238. what kind of money ae you talking? what is the install like?

allen


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:39 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:48 pm
Posts: 12
Hi Allen,
I'm hoping to keep the cost down to what they were going for new from Four Winns (about $375)... This will be from 100% 316 series stainless.
I had the proto-type already cut and I am now working on the bending fixture. I work as a tool designer so I hope to get all the bugs worked out and get the LH and RH parts to repeat. I have access to all the equipment (water jet cutting, a 20 Ton press, TIG welder, etc... and a friend of mine is a certified welder... If you commit, I will have 4 people... I can cut 5 complete units from a 24" x 48" sheet of Stainless and can keep the cost down to about $400 plus shipping... but that's a ball park figure at this time.. some where's in center field so far.
Can you shoot me a PM with your e-mail and I can send you a few photos of what I am up to..

thanks, John

_________________
1996 256 Vista DLX
350-W Ford / OMC 5.8 FSI Fuel Injected
Volvo DP-S Drive


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 10:11 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:48 pm
Posts: 12
Hi Allen... The install should be fairly simple for the Bow Roller.. I have a 1996 258 Vista.. I pulled the anchor hatch (aka chain locker lid) and took a peek in side.. There is a glassed in reinforcement piece behind the nose of the boat, above the rub rail, I'm assuming a block of wood. It looks like the same thickness as what FW uses under the cleats and bow rings. Just make sure that extra thick glassed in wood block is there.. If not, you will need to glass one in..
This roller that I'm making will install above the rub rail.. A total of (8) 5/16 stainless steel screws with Phillips heads.. on the inside, it's very plain and simple... there are (8) large thicker than normal washers, then nylock nuts.. These are the nuts that have the plastic insert that squeezes onto the threaded nut.
The boat that's in the slip next to me owns a 1997 258 Vista with the OEM bow roller so I reverse engineered it. I have photos of both inside and outside with an anchor. I also made a 3D model showing a Danforth anchor in the roller. It's good for both Danforth and Plow style anchors. Send me your e-mail and I will send all my photos that I have..
I've had my boat now for 3 seasons and I'm tired of hauling up the anchor.. The CT River here has a current and is tidal, up to 5 knots and is a chafe trying to pull up on the anchor under that speed current. I was able to pick up a new Maxwell Freedom 500 windlass from a dealer who was moving to a new location and didn't want to lug the box to the new building.. $250.00 Still in the box..
The motor hangs below deck in the chain locker, but for the 238 there are many choices for the gypsy and motor to be above deck.. I can send you pictures of a boat that has that set-up already.
You will also need to glass in a piece of 1/2" thick plywood to the underside of the anchor hatch for reinforcement... And depending on your navigation light set-up on the bow, you may need to replace them to move them out to the sides.. My boat has a one piece red/green light with the guide for the anchor rope between them... Plus you need to purchase a chain lock... they mount between the anchor and the windlass... NEVER sleep overnight using just the windlass to hold the line... ALWAYS tie off on a cleat when on hook, and ALWAYS lock your chain when underway. If the windlass ever slipped and the anchor dropped, you will have problems.. I came close to being killed while in a friends boat who's Danforth anchor dropped from the bow. Wasn't tied off properly.. The anchor acted like an air foil, came under the boat, and flew up behind the boat wrapping it self over the transom and nailing me in the back.. it hit me flat on the back 6" from the back of my skull... A few beers to shake it off but my guardian angle was watching over me that day I tell you.
John

_________________
1996 256 Vista DLX
350-W Ford / OMC 5.8 FSI Fuel Injected
Volvo DP-S Drive


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:19 pm 
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Minnow

Joined: Sat Nov 01, 2014 12:48 pm
Posts: 12
This is what I am making for my Vista 258.. FYI one doesn't need a windlass to still be able to use a bow roller. The advantage is that you don't need to lift the anchor out of the chain locker and throw it over the bow rail, then loop the line back under the rail and tie off to a cleat.. Then having to haul up the anchor and have it hit the side of the boat. This holds the anchor away from the gel coat and you don't need to drop the anchor back in the chain locker. The anchor stays out on the bow roller all the time. If interested, please let me know.

[url][URL=http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/johnny_4321/media/Anchor-RollerAsmy-2_zps08badab2.jpg.html]Image[/url][/url]

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1996 256 Vista DLX
350-W Ford / OMC 5.8 FSI Fuel Injected
Volvo DP-S Drive


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 5:05 pm 
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Tadpole

Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 4:45 pm
Posts: 1
Johnny_4321 wrote:
If anyone is looking for a bow roller that fits 1995 thru 1999 Vista 238, 258, & 278, please let me know. I am fabricating one for my boat now.
OEM part No. was 031-0358, no longer available.
thanks,
John



John,

Yes, I would be very interested in one.

Bob


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