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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2008 11:07 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sun Jun 24, 2007 10:44 pm
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Location: Chicago, IL
Question #1
This past weekend was the first time I've dropped the hook on my new boat. I noticed there is only 10' of chain and the rest of the rode is rope. I'd prefer a longer chain to ease the anchoring process.

After some research it looks like my Maxwell 500RC windlass uses 1/4" chain and 1/2' rope. The current rode has the rope spliced onto the last link of chain. How hard of a job is it to remove the existing chain and splice a longer section on?

Model RC500
Maximum Pull 227kg/500 lbs
Chain Short Link 6mm/7mm or 1/4"
Rope Size (Nylon) (8 plait recommended) 12mm
(3 strand or 8 plait) 1/2"

Would moving from 10' to say 30' chain make any difference in normal conditions with my 30' boat?

Question #2
Does anyone know the bulb type/wattage of the navigation lights? The parts catalog is down and my starboard nav light it out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 7:24 am 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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No offense is intended, but you will not be able to do a tapered eye splice in 8 plait rope as a first timer. Old salts have a rough time with that one. It may pay to actually pay someone to do the splice for you. More chain is better... I have 20' of G4 and 200' of 8 plait 1/2" and I've never had any problems with anchor drag in normal conditions and I anchor in current.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:13 am 
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First of all more chain is almost always better. With my 26' boat we had 6 feet of chain (no windlass) and anchoring was always a challenge. I seldom felt that we were securly set. My 30' boat had 25' of chain as does my new V358. We drop the anchor, set it and forget it. It always sets great the first time.

Splicing 8 plait looks real hard. I've spliced three strand onto chain and it's very easy. It's a little scary because you can't see the splice while it's working.

Have you considered getting more chain and splicing the new chain between the exisitng chain and the anchor? The anchor to chain connection should be a shackle or swivel, so that's an easy change. You can get one of those splice chain links to connect the two chains together. I don't how easy it is to find a link that will go through your windlass.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:04 am 
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Shark

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Location: Chicago, IL
No offense at all, I figured it wasn't a project I would want to attack. I would love to splice new chain on but I don't think a shackle exists that can pass through a windlass. I would have to cut a link, insert new section, and weld.

I might hit ebay as I hear there are good deals to be had on rode packages. I'm pretty new to windlasses can you tell me exactly what type of chain/rope I need for my windlass. I would like 30' chain and 150' of rope.

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Last edited by ChicagoTC on Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:08 am 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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1/4" G4 Chain and 1/2" 8 Plait Nylon should do it. Make sure the rope to chain splice is tapered or listed for use on boats with a windlass.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:12 pm 
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Shark

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Location: Chicago, IL
Something like this??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEWMAR-ANCHOR-RODE-30-1-4-G4-200-1-2-8-PLAIT-LINE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ26446QQihZ023QQitemZ360061584929QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Ideally I just need to find 30' chain and 150' rope. I never anchor any deeper then 20ft so 180ft would allow a 9:1 scope.

That was easy...

http://www.boatersland.com/lewhm10ht150px.html

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:05 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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That looks like it would do the trick. Before you purchase any package, check Maxwell's site check the specs make sure they have it listed calling for G4 and not something metric.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:46 am 
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Dolphin

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I too have a Vista 298 and recently purchased a Delta 22lb anchor - no more anchor drag. I agree that additional chain would help.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:35 am 
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If you ever get caught off guard and need to get out of an entanglment, chain does not cut as easily as rope does. Not a sermon, just a thought!

We have seen this many times and it is good to have rope, better to loose an anchor than sustain thousands of dollars worth of fiberglass repairs if you need to get out of a raft up quickly.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:38 pm 
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The Real Dr.Evil
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You should never leave a raft up so quickly that damage would ensue. And beyond that.. I have 20' of chain and I can run up to the bow and cut the rope (since the chain is under water). Now if you had an all chain rode that would be a different story. But I generally don't see many (any) pleasure boats with 200+ foot of chain.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:19 pm 
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This is a way to splice on new chain.

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2. ... duct=S0460

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:56 am 
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268 Vista

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Brett248Vista wrote:
But I generally don't see many (any) pleasure boats with 200+ foot of chain.


That is pretty common around here, mostly boats over 30 feet. My BIL's 356 Carver has 250 feet of all chain. I would imagine it is not too common with river boaters in smaller boats.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 3:39 pm 
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Shark

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jrcinnh wrote:
This is a way to splice on new chain.

http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2. ... duct=S0460

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Are you aware of any issues with this passing through a windlass? This is by far the easiest solution. I did get a custom quote for around $280 for a 30' 1/4" and 200' rope rode.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:34 pm 
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I guess it depends on the windlass, some are more forgiving. Follow the link to the website selling the splice. They have dimensions, if they match up it should work. I can't give any warantees :mrgreen:

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