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 Post subject: Re: Toilet priming woes
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:58 am 
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Seahorse

Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:24 pm
Posts: 23
Location: Atlanta GA
swap out is easy, 4 screws and a couple hose clamps. Takes about 30 mins and the good news, it isn't too messy

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2000 248 Vista


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 Post subject: Re: Toilet priming woes
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:49 am 
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email admin your custom rank

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 12:59 pm
Posts: 307
Location: Flower Mound, TX
captwalt wrote:
Cool! How much work was the swap out?


15 minutes to relocate the pump arm assembly (it comes for right hand use). 10 minutes to remove the old toilet and clean the floor. 10 minutes to bolt the new one in and hook it up.

30 minutes to pump 1/2 tank of anti-freeze out of the #$%& toilet fresh water tank!

Which brought up another potential issue. I had pumped out the black water tank a few days ago. Flushed it with fresh water 3 times and re-pumped. It should have been completely empty. The black water tank and the gray water tanks (which is my fresh toilet water tank) are 16 gallons each according to the manual. I pumped the anti-freeze out of the fresh water toilet tank into the black water tank. Just when I was getting to the end of the toilet water tank ... I hear the black water vent valve spewing.

I'm guessing I have sludge in the bottom of the black water tank? Can I get that loosened up with chemicals or am I going to have to replace the black water tank?

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP


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 Post subject: Re: Toilet priming woes
PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:57 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
mcraigchr wrote:
I'm guessing I have sludge in the bottom of the black water tank? Can I get that loosened up with chemicals or am I going to have to replace the black water tank?

One common trick is to put about a cup of laundry detergent down the toilet and then hot water and then run the boat around vigorously for a while. The detergent helps break down and bind the solids.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista


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 Post subject: Re: Toilet priming woes
PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:06 am 
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Whatever
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:39 am
Posts: 996
Location: Salt Lake, Utah
mcraigchr wrote:
There is a "Toilet" electric switch on the vanity next the "Light" switch. I flip it on/off ... doesn't seem to make a difference. What is this switch for?

Craig C.

sniper222 wrote:
The 248 head has 2 switches standard. 1 for the lights and the other is intended for a macerator/overboard discharge which is generally not installed or active when setup for freshwater use, therefore it is a dummy switch and does nothing.


the 2nd switch is pre-wired for a macerator. Plug for macerator is in the blige. Take a test light or multi meter and test end of plug, after installing fuse in fuse panel.

I installed a Y-valve and macerator on our boat, as we are trailer boaters and dont always want to wait at the marina pump out, we can choose to pump out at an RV dump on the way home if we want.

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mcraigchr wrote:
I'm guessing I have sludge in the bottom of the black water tank? Can I get that loosened up with chemicals or am I going to have to replace the black water tank?

RVs have the same issue, one trick along with chemicals and some water, put a bag of ice in tank while sloshing around to help dislodge solids.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
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