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What is the best thing to do for a slow drain? The galley sink is slow and I believe it's backing up into the A/C condensing unit tray under the seat in the cabin, I don't know how.
I know not to use any harsh clog cleaners. Plunger? If that doesnt work would a snake do any damage??

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Michael Bova


"Swept Aweigh"
2003 Four Winns 328 Vista

Previous Boat
2003 Crownline 230CCR

I believe that most drain plumbing is vinyl tubing, I bet there is a kink somewhere.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

They drain into the same sump box. Make sure that sump box is clean and that the pump in it is working effectively. It's a common problem (on all boats) that the shower sump float switch can get gummed up and not work properly. It's less likely, but still possible, that the exit hose from the sump box to the overboard through hull has gotten clogged. There's often a one-way valve inside the hose and it can get clogged too.

When using the galley sink you really have to be careful to avoid letting too much gunk get down the drain. It's not like your home kitchen sink. Anything you let get down there will collect in the sump box. Where it will shortly start to grow nasty mold on it. I hate sump boxes but they're a necessary evil.

Some folks bypass the sump box and dump their galley sink right overboard. This has it's own issues but at least avoids the problem of foodstuffs getting into the sump box and growing moldy hair.

Regular maintenance of the shower sump box is important. It's a pain in the ass to perform, but it's important nonetheless.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

There is another scenario. The OP needs to confirm that his sink(s) drain into the sump. Mine do not (much to my surprise). Mine drain directly overboard. FW confirmed that my boat (and some others) were ordered/built to operate this way. The *only* thing that drains into my sump is the shower. Since we don't use the shower ... sump problems are avoided.

OP, when you run water in the sink, do you notice a steady stream, equivalent to the amount spilling into the sink, draining to the outside? The water would come out of a different through-hull drain than the sump if your configuration is like mine. If so, you have a clogged hose/drain (or crimped).

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP

Thanks for the insight guys. When I run water in the galley sink, no water is coming from the through-hull. So I'm guessing the galley sink drains into the shower sump That's the one I need to check? Does anyone know if this is shown in the owners manual?
I checked when we got back and the A/C drain pan was empty, carpet was dry surrounding the unit.



Does this mean its a nasty job or difficult to get to?

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Michael Bova


"Swept Aweigh"
2003 Four Winns 328 Vista

Previous Boat
2003 Crownline 230CCR

easy job, can be nasty, depending on what has been put into it and what has grown in the sump.

The owners manual is fairly generic, may or may not show all options/possibilities. Pull covers and see how yours is plumbed and check and clean/maintain annually.

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2000 248 5.7L DP
'92, '94 SXI 750, '08 STX 15F, '12 Ultra LX 300
Videos

Not if you have AC. The condensate tray under the AC unit drains into the same sump.

It's still one of those places you want to check now and then to make sure mold isn't growing in it.

The 'pain in the ass' part is having to use a screwdriver to remove the lid, which has a poor seal anyway. Regularly opening/closing that lid is going to eventually wear out the plastic threads in the sump box. Which would give me a good excuse to replace it with the other brand (can't recall attwood or rule) that has quick release clips instead of screws. But since mine is working (at being a mold farm) there's no rush to make more work for myself.

When the galley sink is involved I'm hesitant to blame a kinked hose. It's not like an otherwise working hose is suddenly going to develop a kink. There's greatly likelihood it's due to gunk from the sink (like tomato chunks from salsa). The drain right at the sink is a tight 90 turn, then the hose has a slight ribbing along it's length, finally there's the round screen cylinder inside the sump itself. Plenty of places for an obstruction to stick. Not sure how I'd go about clearing it though. I would not use drain chemicals as all the plumbing is plastic and not likely to be compatible. Maybe a hose forcing a bit of water back up the hose from inside the sump might help break things loose. Not too much pressure though as you don't want to blow off a hose and have water get everywhere. That and perhaps plugging the hose at the sump and washing a bleach mixture down the line would help give it a bit of a cleaning. Leave it sit in there for at least 8 but absolutely no more than 24 hours, or so I've read.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I thought that too. It drains directly into the bilge. Only my shower drains into the sump. I do believe that this "feature" was added after delivery from FW. The tubing that goes from the condensate tray to the bilge is clear, whereas all of the other tubing in the boat is black.

Craig C.

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2003 Vista 248, VP 5.0 GXi-C, DP

Odd, I would not have the condensate line draining to the bilge. It has the potential to supply a fair bit of water. I would rather have the sump box pump handle it first, and then only depend on the bilge pump(s) as secondary backup. You need the bilge pump for more important reasons that AC. Most shower sump boxes have some sort of manifold on them that allows attaching extra hoses. If there wasn't a free port on the box I'd add one or replace the box. It's easy to drill a fresh hole into the box and attach a through-hull. I wouldn't tee into one of the other lines as I wouldn't want to raise the risk of either one backing up. I don't know if the manifold leading into the box has any sort of one-way valves or not. I would tend to doubt it. I do know there's a one-way valve after the pump leading to the overboard through-hull.

The hoses leading to my sump box are all white so I wouldn't put much credence into the color of the hoses, as opposed to their construction. Heavy consumption loads like the engines and genset will use hard sidewall hose. That so it won't collapse as it pulls a LOT of water through it. Drain and vent lines typically don't have much in the way of pressure so they can use the lighter type of hose.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Thanks for the insight. I used a plunger and was able to free it up, Now it drains great!

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Michael Bova


"Swept Aweigh"
2003 Four Winns 328 Vista

Previous Boat
2003 Crownline 230CCR