www.iFourWinns.com

Hey all,
I thought i'd throw this out there to see if anyone has had any of the same issues. During our recent trip i noticed my port battery go low, after shutting down and switching to parralel, started it back up and it was fine. Then the starboard battery started to go down. We made it into TC and the mechanic came out checked all batteries as good (just replaced them all a month ago) Checked the port alternator and it wasn't putting out any juice. Unplugged some wires and after plugging them back in it was putting out juice.
At this point everything checked out except for finding the cause. He indicated it could be the isolator, which is a 35 dollar part and can be easity replaced. Cheapest I can find it is about 140, which is sizable chunk of cash to spend on a hunch.

They drained on the way back across as well.

Any thougts before I call someone to take a look?

_________________
Michael Bova


"Swept Aweigh"
2003 Four Winns 328 Vista

Previous Boat
2003 Crownline 230CCR

I don't know your setup, but can you bypass the isolator. Use it as a basic dual or tri battery system?? If the problem goes away, than you know.

bndfishing posted a link a while back on testing the isolator, it is real easy. You will need a multimeter if I remember correctly.

9BALL

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2005 V268

I have had the same type of problem on my 2004 298, I have had a mechanic check and he also tells me my alternators are putting out 14+ volts. I believe my problem might be the isolator as well, testing looks easy with a DMM. However, accessing it is not so easy. The troubleshooting instructions and link for my Guest Isolator 2503 are below. The 2503 is for a two alternator, three battery setup. I would also check to make sure your alternator ground is not loose or corroded.

http://www.marinco.com/product/70-amp-battery-isolator

Battery Isolator Testing
1. Remove all wire connections from the isolator.
2. Setup a digital multi-meter (DMM) in the diode test mode.
3. Connect the red probe from the DMM to the alternator input (A) and the black probe from the DMM to the battery output terminal to be tested. A good isolator connection will show a reading of 0.4 to 0.6VDC.
4. Connect the DMM black probe to the alternator input (A) and the red probe to the battery output terminal to be tested. A good isolator connection will show a reading of OL.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other battery output terminals with respect to each alternator input.

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2004 Vista 298
Twin 5.7L Volvo Penta GXi-E

Good to know, I did not know that there was a test. I use two combiner to charge up my 3 batterys. A lot cheaper, but not as good.

if you need a new isolator don't get it from a marine store. You can get the isolator from RV stores, amazon, and a lot of other places. When I replaced mine I installed a larger isolator for less money just because the one Four Winns used was a special number to them.

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2000 268 Vista "Reely Nauti"
http://www.facebook.com/#!/rivercruiser

here is the post on checking the isolator

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4474&start=15

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2000 268 Vista "Reely Nauti"
http://www.facebook.com/#!/rivercruiser

Thanks all!
Looks like i need to pick up a DMM this weekend and do some testing before making the purchase.

_________________
Michael Bova


"Swept Aweigh"
2003 Four Winns 328 Vista

Previous Boat
2003 Crownline 230CCR