2002 vista inverter install

chris268 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:06 pm

So, looking for a place to mount my 1500 watt inverter. I am looking at 1 of the 3 locations:
1-Under the steps
2-In the locker on the port side just forward of the cooler shelf
3-In or on top of the storage in the mid cabin (port side)

Here is what I came up with scouting today
1. So as I tried to find the screws for the top step to come out, I can only find one screw.... but it didn't help when I loosened it. It was at the port side, toward the bow.... how many, where were your screws located?
2. Seems like the best, a little worried about temp and how strong the plastic is to mount to. I have read on here another person mention they mounted theirs in the locker.....
3. Damn, the ac duct runs inside of the shelf (aft to forward) so I am losing a ton of room already. Any suggestions to get this cabinet out. I have read on here and seen pics of it, seems so hard with the ceiling.... did you guys reroute the duct behind the cabinet? Or did mine come different....

Open to all suggestions, there is no schedule for this, just tinkering right now

Thanks guys
Chris

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2017 8:58 pm

A few years ago I got the following advice from Bliss36 and others on this site:

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=10460&p=102366&hilit=268+inverter#p102366

This thread includes several pictures of his install in the front foot locker and the air conditioner unit in the back half.

I installed mine in the storage cabinet just behind the steps.
[img][IMG]http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c298/garybockman/IMG_20140420_175455_677_1482287401298_zpswbd5g8hc.jpg[/img][/img]

chris268 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:04 pm

Thanks Gary, I have read the first link at least 100 times

Looking at your install, I tried to pull the back panel of the storage panel that you located yours in, I couldn't get it to budge after I removed the screws.... it's all very tight!

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Fri Jan 27, 2017 10:27 pm

Yes, the back panel is very tight. I believe I used a couple wide sheetrock putty knives or thin cardboard between the panel and the surrounding surfaces to prevent damage, and a hook tool in one corner to get behind the panel and pull. Behind the back panel are two short 2 x 2 wood blocks screwed to the front and back wall.

The information I noticed in all of the inverter installation instructions included:
1. Do not install it in the engine compartment or in a flammable location.
2. Make sure the inverter has ventilation to prevent overheating. They do have a ventilation fan in them but they need to be able to breathe a little.

Personally I would not install it in the Port side storage compartment just ahead of the cooler for 2 reasons. I'm not sure it would fit, or at least go through the door. I would be concerned about adequate ventilation.

This link from "Boat-project.com" shows the top step and then the step removed on a '99 268. It appears there are 4 screws going down through the top of the step, and yes they are well hidden. Check the picture with the step removed for possible screw hole locations. You might be able to be able to get an idea whether this area is big enough for your needs, but keep in mind the 2002 might be slightly different.
http://boat-project.com/electro/proj-7a.htm

My inverter installation took 10 feet of cable for the positive and another 10 feet for the negative. I ran the cables through the sealed up hole that has all the other cables and plumbing just ahead of and slightly outboard of the batteries. It was a challenge to remove enough of the expanding foam and fish the cables forward to the storage cabinet I used. I put a high amperage fuse on the positive cable end at the battery and the battery on/off switch just below the inverter.

chris268 · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 9:23 am

Surface Interval wrote:

Yes, the back panel is very tight. I believe I used a couple wide sheetrock putty knives or thin cardboard between the panel and the surrounding surfaces to prevent damage, and a hook tool in one corner to get behind the panel and pull. Behind the back panel are two short 2 x 2 wood blocks screwed to the front and back wall.

The information I noticed in all of the inverter installation instructions included:
1. Do not install it in the engine compartment or in a flammable location.
2. Make sure the inverter has ventilation to prevent overheating. They do have a ventilation fan in them but they need to be able to breathe a little.

Personally I would not install it in the Port side storage compartment just ahead of the cooler for 2 reasons. I'm not sure it would fit, or at least go through the door. I would be concerned about adequate ventilation.

This link from "Boat-project.com" shows the top step and then the step removed on a '99 268. It appears there are 4 screws going down through the top of the step, and yes they are well hidden. Check the picture with the step removed for possible screw hole locations. You might be able to be able to get an idea whether this area is big enough for your needs, but keep in mind the 2002 might be slightly different.
http://boat-project.com/electro/proj-7a.htm

My inverter installation took 10 feet of cable for the positive and another 10 feet for the negative. I ran the cables through the sealed up hole that has all the other cables and plumbing just ahead of and slightly outboard of the batteries. It was a challenge to remove enough of the expanding foam and fish the cables forward to the storage cabinet I used. I put a high amperage fuse on the positive cable end at the battery and the battery on/off switch just below the inverter.

I remember that install that you posted the link to, but didn't notice the holes for where the screws were/ remember them, thank you!

I bought the 1500 watt inverter used off eBay for $60 so I want to use it, just don't want to lose precious storage space either (at least minimize).... it is the same brand the previous owner had installed/removed, so the remote on/off switch should work perfect.
Thanks for the tips on cardboard or some wide plastic putty knives, great info!

It will fit in the locker near the cooler, physically, but the ventilation and just the surface mounting seems to be lacking.... I do remember a couple guys mentioning they did this, and early indications were good but that was years ago, right after installation..... I went through 8 pages of post on the search engine, some great info there " vista inverter"

Any info how to get the cabinet out in the mid cabin sleeper? I see brackets mounted to the floor, but wasn't sure how the face came off. I think I want to see about rerouting the insulated duct out of the cabinet and behind it, at least for looks.... I am not in any hurry, just exploring options right now

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Sat Jan 28, 2017 10:55 am

I recall Bliss36 had his out, as shown in the previous link. I was under the assumption that the face would separate from the rest of the internal panels. I believe the cabinet is assembled with angle brackets between the panels and to the floor that can be removed. Use some sort of cardboard, plastic sheeting, or other material between the panels and the vinyl upholstery to protect the upholstery from the corners and edges of the panels. A wide sheetrock putty knife might help put the protective material in place. Work slowly and carefully. I think it would work best to move the forward end inboard far enough and slide it forward enough to tip the face panel so it is loose. Make sure that the face panel doesn't bend and break or you might get a chance to practice your cabinet making skills......

chris268 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2017 4:47 pm

Gary
I finally found the last screw, and got the step removed. I think there is just enough room to mount it under the step, on the aft wall that is back to back with the storage wall you mounted yours on....

To fit it in there, i was thinking of cutting the trash can hole (future possibly?) and covering it up for now. I do have a remote control, so i shouldn't have to access it very often... not sure i ever do the flip step, but it would still be an option....

On the foot locker in the mid cabin. I was able to find 3 screws the hold the face to the cabinet. I remove them, had a little cardboard, but didn't have the time to fully try to remove (lunch hour).... so slow progress.

what size fuse or breaker did you use to feed your inverter?

Thanks in advance
Chris

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2017 5:19 pm

Chris, I don't recall the amperage rating of the fuse, but I recall that it was rather high. It might have been around 350 amp. You may be able to google the inverter installation instructions for your inverter to get the fuse requirements. Otherwise you may be able to calculate the max amp draw on 12 volts that equates to the max amperage for 110 volt output, and add a safety margin. Factor in the max surge output. My inverter is 1800 Watt with a 3000 watt surge. 3000 watts divided by 12 volts is 250 amps. Add a safety margin and I am somewher in the 300+ amp category. I put the fuse and holder on the cable where it attaches to the house battery.

The fuse I used was like this:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea ... cordNum=36

and the fuse holder was a single fuse holder version of this:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea ... cordNum=54

chris268 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:13 pm

Great info as usual, thank you Gary.

I read on here that someone took their feed from the factory battery switch so that you could turn it off there also, and select either battery 1 or 2.... any thoughts on doing that? I know it's a little tight pulling the switch out to work on it, but once it's wired seemed like a good idea

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Wed Feb 01, 2017 8:30 pm

The 268 Vista switch panel does come out, and it helps to work with tthe wires a little to get it out far enough to be accessible. But have a look at how things will work if you make your connections there. The house appliances are powered by the house battery bank through the toggle switch. I don't believe the toggle switch is rated for that high of a possible amperage draw. The rotary switch determines which battery or batteries power the engine starter and some other accessories such as outdrive trim. Connecting to the rotary battery selector switch means that the inverter will have power any time you have the switch on, whether you are running the engine or not. These inverters typically have a cooling fan that you may not want to draw power and run when you are sleeping or at other times it isn't needed. And again, you might not want power to the inverter any time that you have either switch on. That is why I connected both leads to the house battery. If you are connecting to the rotary switch you will most likely have to set the switch to the engine battery for starting, and then switch to the house battery for running the inverter to use the (hopefully larger) house battery bank. The "both" setting on the rotary switch is usually reserved for when you have run engine and house batteries down far enough that you need to connect all batteries, cross all appendages, and hope you have enough power to start the engine so you can start to recharge. The 268 has a battery isolator mounted next to the 110V battery charger. This allows the engine alternator to charge both battery banks without switching the battery selector switch to "Both", or having one discharged battery drawing the other one down.

By the way, if you ever notice that the alternator is not charging the batteries, there is a 70 amp circuit breaker on a black box between the battery charger and the trim tab pump, and just above the battery isolator. I had this breaker pop once on my boat. I reset it and all was fine.

chris268 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2017 1:30 pm

So..... trying to pull this cabinet out is a bear.... trying to fish from the engine compartment to behind the ac unit/aft cabin locker. I can get a fish steel through, as I tried to pull a 1/4 rope through, it's too tight. Any suggestions how you got 2-1/0 cables through there? I am trying to squeez with the red and blue water lines and the water feed for the ac/unit.... me being just slightly over weight :roll:

isn't helping to access it....

chris268 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:24 pm

Gave up on the path behind the aft cabin locker. Found another route that is up high on the port side above the cooler storage and the small locker between the cabin door and the cooler storage.....

So I have a pull rope installed, it will be a few feet longer than the lower path, but I am able to get it. Time to put this thing back together.

I am going to order the fuse holder, fuse, wire, terminations and hopefully the manual transfer switch....

Getting closer. I have a new respect for the guys that removed their aft cabin foot lockers, that is a bitch!

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2017 5:17 pm

I ran two 2/0 cables down low with the water lines. This is right next to the inside surface of the port side hull fiberglass and the chine and hull bottom. It was a challenge getting through the expanding foam in the rubber grommet just ahead of the batteries. It did take some doing to fish the cables. I was able to get at the front end of this area by removing the outboard wall of the storage comp't just aft of the stairs. I went with 2/0 for the 1800 watt/3000 watt surge inverter. The directions recommended not more than 5 feet of battery cable, but boat installations usually need longer lengths so I went up a size. Speaking of size and getting at things, I am 6'3" and not skinny, and according to your profile I have maybe 18 more laps around the sun.

Best of luck on the install. Can't wait for boating season.

chris268 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 05, 2017 11:30 pm

Thanks Gary, wire is on order along with the fuse holder and fuse you recommended. I also ordered the manual transfer switch, that will allow me to select between the shore power, off, inverter and if I choose to add a separate feed in the future for the Honda in the aft locker on the swim platform, not sure if I will, but it will be available...

My inverter recommends #2 awg, I did the voltage calculation at 5% and 1/0 is plenty for 1500 watts at that distance. I will try to get the wire through that grommet/opening next time, if not, I have the other path...

What lugs did you use at the battery? Also, did you use pin terminals at the lug for the inverter terminations?

It was sunny and 55 hear today, going to be in the low 60's tomorrow and upper 60's on Tuesday. I too, am soooo ready for spring/summer

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:44 pm

The terminal ends were a crimp type, maybe from West Marine. The crimp tool, meant for use with a hammer, worked well for all cable ends. The inverter had set screw connections that worked well for the 110 volt wires.

Enjoy the weather, Minneapolis thru east central Wisconsin might see highs approaching 30 Tuesday with a wintery mix, and highs in the teens Wednesday.

www.iFourWinns.com

2002 vista inverter install

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