www.iFourWinns.com

Some trucks come from the OEM that way! My 04 Hemi Rumblebee has external vents for the rear end housings, they are fairly high up. But I don't put my back tires in the water.

My 248 is a pain to load because it requires getting the trailer in very deep to get it back on the trailer. The front bunk boards are hard to get wet at my ramp and thus the scratching gelcoat issue. Honestly a roller trailer would solve that issue (but probably create ten more).

As for towing, I tow my 248 with a 1500 Hemi Ram Rumble Bee, it's rated for 5500Lbs per axle, total tow capacity is 9200 Lbs and my rough calculations put my vista just a tick under 9K when fully loaded with fuel, water, suppies (that's including the trailer weight of 1600Lbs). It tows it ok... A 2500 Diesel would be a much better choice though.

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Brett DiMichele

You guys are great. I appreciate all of the input. I know we got a little off track. If there are any other retrieval ideas, I will take them, other wise I have a few pointers I am going to use, and I think next time will go much smoother, thanks again, KS.

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"Changes in Attitude"
2003 268 Vista 5.7 Volvo DP

OK, much better this time. Backed the trailer in farther, and put PAM spray on the bunks. Thanks guys. Trailered 4 hours each way over the holiday weekend, no problems, WOOHOO!! KS

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"Changes in Attitude"
2003 268 Vista 5.7 Volvo DP

I load and retrieve at least 2 times a week. When retrieving, I back in to get my bunks wet then pull back out. Granted every ramp is different, but I typically just get my fenders underwater, then start winching like a MOFO!!! Please note we are a no power loading state!

I too have had my lower roller moved down 12". I never have issues anymore. The key is to find the right balance of bow weight on the bunks vs. transom float per each ramp you use!

On a side note, I too am pushing the limits, but then again it is a FORD!!!!

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Boating is not an expense, it's a lifestyle!!

Well.... since this has been revived .....

Same issues with the bow rollers vs the boat's bow eye.

If we do not have the boat floating a bit once it's winched up into the rollers (with the eye way up close to the top roller), it will invariably be one or two inches from the rollers after pulling out .... and .... the boat will likely not be centered on the rear bunks, which puts the low side chine REAL close to the fender ... or even on it. Of course, you CAN'T winch it up this high if the rear is actually sitting on the bunks, after powering on. Unless the boat is more-or-less floating .... ain't no winching going to be happening.

Setting the trailer deeper, so that not so much power is required to get up on the trailer, will typically mean that the bow eye will push up under the lower roller. Of course, launch ramp angle makes a difference. We have been to only one ramp (Great Bay Marina that we use when going out on the Ocean) that allowed us to fully float the rear (so that I can make sure it's centered as we pull out), get the eye between the rollers ... AND .... since it's floating a bit, be able to winch the bow eye up close to the top roller and have the bow actually stay up-against the rollers after pulling out (this is an issue regardless of how tight it's winched in, while in the water).

I too, had thought about either lowering the lower roller or rebuilding into a single stationary roller.

More testing and, likely, a mod .... will be in order. We had similar issues with the 245 Sundowner, to a lesser degree.

3/4 ton 'burby does fine.......

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

I have a 1998 258 Vista and I experienced the same problem with the bow eye ending up below the bottom roller of the bow stop. It didn't seem to matter if the ramp was steep, shallow gradient, etc. My wife and I spent the better part of an hour at a vacant ramp trying all sorts of combinations of winch strap placement, etc. and nothing worked.

I fixed the problem by removing the stop, then re-installing the 'banana' shaped frame using the bottom hole (where one of the two rollers went previously) and installing a brace from the center hole of the banana frame (the hole that used to be the pivot point for the stop assembly) to the winch platform. I used a 1 inch by 3/16 inch strap (I will have to check those dimensions to confirm). Now the boat comes to a stop against the single roller above the bow eye on the boat.

This worked for me.

Happy fireworks.

That sounds easy enough, Steve. I understand your description. Got any photos as well, with boat on it?

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Gordon Arnold
New Hampshire

2003 268 Vista ..................................................................Prior: 97 245 Sundowner

Yes- that is some good thinking!

We had a 245 sundowner that came thro our shop, the owner took the top roller off, rotated the assembly to the location of the cross arm holding it, then drilled and thru bolted from this area, thus using the bottom roller as the bow stop!

You can kinda see my bow roller support here,
Also this is the ramp close to home I use





As for winching, I know it can be a pain, but I always do it and never have issues with the boat not being right at the eye after pulling out of the ramp. Once ya get the system down, again right balance for your ramp situation, it just gets easier as time goes on!

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Boating is not an expense, it's a lifestyle!!