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LouC · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 6:55 am

Good thing you caught it now, eventually you would have a lot of rust in there and have to change the gimble bearing and the u-joints. And on later model Volvos apparently the u joints are not replaceable without replacing the whole shaft (big job requires special tools). Make sure the gimble rotates smoothly and freely and the u joints do not bind and are not loose. Also make sure nothing could contact the bellows like the trim ram lines. Before you re install the drive turn the pivot housing all the way left and right and look in there with a flashlight to check. These bellows can last a very long time if installed correctly.

rem9607 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 7:58 am

Surface Interval wrote:

When you get a chance, check the entire bellows, and especially the front end of the upper bellows next to the hose clamp screw. On my 95 190 Horizon, the hose clamp's screw wore a hole in the bellows due to repeated contact when turned to the right stop. This area is visible with the outdrive turned full left while looking from the right side between the transom shield and gimbal ring. I was able to change my bellows with the outdrive off, but without removing the gimbal ring. Volvo issued a service letter on this and the fix is a new bellows and a slightly different hose clamp with instructions to locate the hose clamp screw at about the 1:30 to 2:00 o'clock position when viewed from behind the boat (or 45-60 degrees from top on the right side). While you have the outdrive off you will want to clean up excess grease, re-grease the gimbal bearing while turning it to ensure that you purge any old or contaminated grease and fill the bearing with new grease. The grease zerk is on the right side of the transom shield right next to the transom. Pay attention as you rotate the gimbal bearing and feel for roughness while the bearing rotates. Also look to see if there are grease zerks on the universal joints on the driveshaft. Check the u joint bearings for roughness and re-grease if you can.

Thank you Surface Interval

I have ordered new bellow, gimbal, u joints (with fittings), and gaskets needed. u joints did not have grease fittings, makes me think they are original u joints. Thanks for the tip on finding a cut in the bellows. The hose for the side grease fitting for the gimbal is loosely fitted with a rubber hose to grease the gimbal. Any way this could allow water in? fits that way by design

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 9:16 am

When you take the old bellows off you can stretch it out and see if there are any tears in it. It could also leak at the end where the clamp is if the bellows was not seated all the way on the opening for the gimble housing. There is a recess in the mounting area and there is a lip in the center of the bellows sealing surface thats supposed to fit in that recess (groove). Also I'd use OMC gasket sealer or similar on the bellows on that end.

I have heard that it is possible for that grease tube to leak, I have not had that problem with my old Cobra but I have heard of it. I'd do a search in the Volvo forum over at iboats and see what people have done to fix it.

When you install the drive make sure to grease the inner edge of the sealing surface of the bellows and the bearing carrier on the drive where they mate. I've been doing it this way all the years I've been R+R'ing the drive and so far so good. I think the next time I remove it I am going to replace the bellows as preventative maintenance.

rem9607 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 1:11 pm

Surface Interval wrote:

When you get a chance, check the entire bellows, and especially the front end of the upper bellows next to the hose clamp screw. On my 95 190 Horizon, the hose clamp's screw wore a hole in the bellows due to repeated contact when turned to the right stop. This area is visible with the outdrive turned full left while looking from the right side between the transom shield and gimbal ring. I was able to change my bellows with the outdrive off, but without removing the gimbal ring. Volvo issued a service letter on this and the fix is a new bellows and a slightly different hose clamp with instructions to locate the hose clamp screw at about the 1:30 to 2:00 o'clock position when viewed from behind the boat (or 45-60 degrees from top on the right side). While you have the outdrive off you will want to clean up excess grease, re-grease the gimbal bearing while turning it to ensure that you purge any old or contaminated grease and fill the bearing with new grease. The grease zerk is on the right side of the transom shield right next to the transom. Pay attention as you rotate the gimbal bearing and feel for roughness while the bearing rotates. Also look to see if there are grease zerks on the universal joints on the driveshaft. Check the u joint bearings for roughness and re-grease if you can.

Just to be sure, there is no outdrive gasket between the outdrive and the Bellow housing?? I see a drain gap on the lower side of the mounting surface, but seem very odd to not have a gasket.

LouC · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:01 pm

No gasket there, the bellows seals up against the bearing carrier surface on the upper drive unit. The OMC Cobra, which is what the Volvo SX design was derived from, did use a gasket there because the shift cable design was totally different and they wanted to keep water out of that area.
I would put some kind of grease on the mating surface just to reduce any possible corrosion around the mounting studs.

rem9607 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:38 pm

Surface Interval wrote:

When you get a chance, check the entire bellows, and especially the front end of the upper bellows next to the hose clamp screw. On my 95 190 Horizon, the hose clamp's screw wore a hole in the bellows due to repeated contact when turned to the right stop. This area is visible with the outdrive turned full left while looking from the right side between the transom shield and gimbal ring. I was able to change my bellows with the outdrive off, but without removing the gimbal ring. Volvo issued a service letter on this and the fix is a new bellows and a slightly different hose clamp with instructions to locate the hose clamp screw at about the 1:30 to 2:00 o'clock position when viewed from behind the boat (or 45-60 degrees from top on the right side). While you have the outdrive off you will want to clean up excess grease, re-grease the gimbal bearing while turning it to ensure that you purge any old or contaminated grease and fill the bearing with new grease. The grease zerk is on the right side of the transom shield right next to the transom. Pay attention as you rotate the gimbal bearing and feel for roughness while the bearing rotates. Also look to see if there are grease zerks on the universal joints on the driveshaft. Check the u joint bearings for roughness and re-grease if you can.

You got it, I had a hole around the front 2 o'clock position. Im guessing its from the clamp that is also around that same position. I usually trailer the boat with the trim up and turned all the way to the right, not sure if this caused it, but hope to prevent it next time. I don't have grease fittings on the ujoints. I checked them and took a set out, good, but original joints from 2004. Looking for after market spider for GKN 3B. I can replace these with out replacing the Yoke, but in the long run I need to be able to grease them or ill be doing this every year.

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:46 pm

If you found a hole in the bellows next to the hose clamp screw then welcome to the club. I trailer my 268 so the drive is up and it has a natural tendency to move to the right. On mine the hole in the bellows was caused by repeated contact with the hose clamp when turned all the way to the right. I had to change the bellows twice on my '95 190. The first time was at about 1000 hours, the second time at about 1600. I believe I caught it fairly soon each time and was able to clean it up and re-grease everything. I operated it on the original gimbal bearing and greaseable u-joints for another 500+ hours before I sold the boat.

The aft end of the driveshaft bellows seals against the outdrive's driveshaft bearing housing. Make sure the front end of the bellows is seated properly. The bellows package should have a hose clamp and instructions for correct positioning of the clamp to prevent wearing this hole again. I would not use any adhesive or sealant on this connection. Pay attention to the bonding/grounding cables for corrosion prevention and check your anodes. Volvo recommends using some Triple Guard grease on the bearing housing to help seal against the bellows. The only seal is the irregular shaped rubber "o-ring" around the raw water intake passage. I sometimes use some grease to help hold this "o-ring" in place during outdrive re-installation. I had not heard about the grease zerk hose as a possible problem. Since you did find a hole in the bellows, I would assume that was the problem. Have a good look at the hose, but it is probably OK. It should be full of grease which would prevent water flow through the gimbal bearing and into the bellows. There are really not that many other ways that water can get inside the bellows. Hope this helps.

NiagaraChillin · **Posted:** Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:52 am

Been away a few days, but I see LouC and Surface Interval have answered your questions. I did try to reload the images for the drive removal thread, but for some reason, IFourWinns will not let me reload images into an old(er) post. I would have to re-create the post. If you need those pictures, let me know and I will recreate the post for ya.

rem9607 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 23, 2013 1:18 pm

NiagaraChillin wrote:

Been away a few days, but I see LouC and Surface Interval have answered your questions. I did try to reload the images for the drive removal thread, but for some reason, IFourWinns will not let me reload images into an old(er) post. I would have to re-create the post. If you need those pictures, let me know and I will recreate the post for ya.

Thanks, but I'm good. If you have an pictures of the gear housing coming off in order to take the yoke off the drive that would be great. Ordered the service manual and decided to change the yoke out with the Sierra one with zerk fittings, better in the long run with annual greasing.

Surface Interval · **Posted:** Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:27 pm

REM9607, you may find this interesting. Its an online Volvo Workshop Manual. http://boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/sx_dp-s_drive.html Instructions and drawings for outdrive removal and reinstallation start on Page 227. They say to loosen the shift cable housing. I never needed to do this on the 95 SX or 2002 DP-SM drives I have worked on. Hope this helps.

strick · **Posted:** Tue Dec 24, 2013 7:35 am

I read this because of the title. I think that this has become the definition of a hijacked thread!

So, who's going to Bimini!?! LOL.

rem9607 · **Posted:** Wed Dec 25, 2013 6:42 pm

strick wrote:

I read this because of the title. I think that this has become the definition of a hijacked thread!

So, who's going to Bimini!?! LOL.

Yes off subject, but Im heading that way in May. Getting the boat ready for a 1800mile round trip trailer ride and the trip over to Bimini from Fort Lauderdale.

ric · **Posted:** Wed Dec 25, 2013 9:38 pm

Sea Tow card, VHF, and sun tan lotion is all you need. If you want an extra measure rent an EPIRB from boatus

rem9607 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:41 am

ric wrote:

Sea Tow card, VHF, and sun tan lotion is all you need. If you want an extra measure rent an EPIRB from boatus

The list is growing. Being an offshore helicopter pilot I have free access to two EPIRBs I carry on me which I'll take on the trip with me. one has VHF radio on guard built into it. Now looking into a floating back up raft in case I crack a hull, out drive falls off, etc. looking at inflatable kayaks.

LouC · **Posted:** Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:03 pm

Replacing that yoke requires setting the rolling torque if I recall and is not a typical do it your self repair, if your u joints are ok I think I'd just keep running it. Shame on Volvo for making a formerly simple repair a major production.
My '88 still has the OE joints!

www.iFourWinns.com

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