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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Mar 10, 2011 4:00 pm
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
Concur with everyone that says to run heavier wire, I had the same problem a few years ago until I ran 8 gauge wire. I believe Four Winns only ran 14 gauge wire which only allows you an 8 foot run for a 3% voltage drop. I also had to switch out the breaker, a 10 amp was installed, Novakool recommends 20 amp.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2012 12:43 pm
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Location: Tuscola, IL
noexcuses wrote:
I also had to switch out the breaker, a 10 amp was installed, Novakool recommends 20 amp.


Ditto on this as well...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 11:05 am 
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If you're not tripping the breaker going to a bigger breaker won't do anything.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 12:38 pm 
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Location: Bush River, Maryland
I'm not sure why a 20 amp circuit breaker versus a 10 amp would make that much of a difference with respect to voltage drop but the Nova Kool manual says an improperly sized breaker will shut the fridge down.

"The circuit breaker must be a 20 amp capacity on the DC side and a 5 amp capacity on the (optional) AC side. Failure to size the wire or breaker correctly (too small) may cause a premature shut down of the refrigerator by the Battery Protection Device."

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:11 pm 
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Location: Tuscola, IL
noexcuses wrote:
I'm not sure why a 20 amp circuit breaker versus a 10 amp would make that much of a difference with respect to voltage drop but the Nova Kool manual says an improperly sized breaker will shut the fridge down.

"The circuit breaker must be a 20 amp capacity on the DC side and a 5 amp capacity on the (optional) AC side. Failure to size the wire or breaker correctly (too small) may cause a premature shut down of the refrigerator by the Battery Protection Device."


Believe it's a matter of resistance/impedance... By multi-meter, I saw a definite improvement in both of my changes (wiring and breaker)... Most notable was the wiring though..

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 2:39 pm 
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I agree that there was improvement after changing out the circuit breaker, even after I ran the heavier gauge, the fridge would still shut down. That's when I called Nova Kool tech support and they told me to upsize the breaker. I haven't had problems since then which makes the wife real happy.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 4:59 pm 
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Dang....I've never experienced this on either my 268 or the 318..both have Nova Kools. I guess there is a perk to being on shorepower and always running the generator!

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 6:18 pm 
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firecadet613 wrote:
Dang....I've never experienced this on either my 268 or the 318..both have Nova Kools. I guess there is a perk to being on shorepower and always running the generator!


Yes, my issue never seemed to happen on Generator or shore power either because, then it was either running on AC/converter that is in the back of the fridge and therefore, a much shorter run from the "power source", or the battery charger/alternators provided enough extra amps to nullify the loss in the run/inadequate wiring if I didn't have the AC switch on.. Point is, at least on some years/models, and fridge model combinations, Four Winns ran inadequate wiring to operate certain fridge models how they were designed when on battery power...

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 10:30 pm 
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Keep the rated breaker. Turn on the fridge and check the voltage at the fridge. Than turn it off. What was the voltage on & off. You should not see more than a 1 volt drop. If you do, you need heaver wire and I am sure you do!


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