www.iFourWinns.com

Bill,

I beleive the one Attwood makes, at least has a sealing lid (with a gasket) unlike the Rule which does not seal.

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Brett DiMichele

It was a huge amount of water (inches deep) and still am not sure where it came from. Judging by the slimyness of that sump I have to imagine that water was there for a good period of time. I can't really test my A/C since the boat sits on a trailer. Nevertheless the next time I go out I will monitor the forward bilge and take a look.



That is what I have. Its got a Sahara pump in it.

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

Thanks Brett. In comparing the sizes (from their respective websites) the smaller (#4141) one would definitely fit. I'd have to check to be sure but I think the larger 4143 might also fit in the 348. I seem to recall there being a couple inches of extra space around it.

But that still looks like it uses the same design, for the pump anyway. It's still the mechanical float kind, just one built into the pump instead of separate. But the lid having a gasket AND being designed to remove without tools is DEFINITELY an improvement. That alone might make it worthwhile.

I am not looking forward to seeing what's grown in the sump by the time the boat gets put back in the water.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I was thinking today that maybe dropping a small bromine tablet in the box would help against any growth inside. Thoughts?

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

Don't know if that'd help. The trouble is gunk collects on the screen and then grows mold. The tablets would need water to work and the pump does a pretty good job of getting it out. Provided it wasn't sudsy and overflowed, that is. That and if I'm not mistaken some of those tablets are pretty harsh on plastics. The sump box, fittings, hose and backflow preventer might have problems.

Since the lid on the Rule sump is screwed down it's not an easy 'every use' maintenance item. Thus the appeal of the Attwood sump...

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

On a 318 there is a switch in the main panel box that when turned on will make the "pumps in the box run" all the time when the cabin main is on. I found this by mistake fumbling in the dark. We don't shower in the boat so the shower pump doesn't run but the pump for the A/C condensate does get a work out.

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2008 318 Vista "Ka-wai-ola"
350 MPI/BravoIII DTS Seacore
2006 1500 Key West -70 Yamaha
Previous Boats
Key West 2300CC
Pacemaker 270 Sport Fish
290 Sea Ray

My 248 collects water there as well. The ac condensation line empties in there as well as the shower. I use the shower so it does get gunk in it. I also noticed that sometimes the door to the head leaks and the water from the floor ends up there as well. If you use the sink in the galley and the water runs to the back of the counter, water will end up in the bilge as well. All kinds of places for water to come from. I usually open it up a few times a month and clean it all out.

For those interested, here is a pic showing the surface I had to remove from the float switch to keep it from sticking in the up (on) position.
The original sump was cracked from not winterizing properly by the previous owner.

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278 Vista

I've seen several different styles of pump and switch inside the Rule-style sumps. Mine has a float that's more like a lever (sorta looks like a plastic mousetrap if you've ever seen one). It doesn't have a housing around it. The pump itself looks like the one you posted. The main bilge float does look more like that one, that is it has the housing around with switch).

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Bill,

Probably depends on the year of the boat. My 06 has the same components as your 05, I would imagine a 2000 would have different parts as ITT has probably made changes since 2K.

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Brett DiMichele

Sorry to dig up this thread, but I'm having the same problem with my shower sump pump. Looked today and found it full of water that has been there since before I owned the boat!

Not sure if the pump is bad, but one thing is for sure. The power connection is the main problem. It appears that one wire has come completely out of the plug and the other isn't too secure. This is on the connector that I think runs from the engine compartment.

I'm going to do a complete overhaul on this with a new pump but my question is how to run the new power. Does anyone know where the shower sump power connects in the engine compartment? I attempted to trace it but could figure it out. Also, any tricks on running a new set of power cables to the engine compartment from the show sump access point.

Boat is a 2000 248 Vista.



Thanks

Ok as u are aware from the thread I just replaced my pump. A replacement was 50 bucks so rather than dealing with a rebuild I just replace the pump.

If memory serves correct, there are 3 wires on the pump only two (black and black brown) need to be connected. This basically powers the pump when the float switch is in the engaged position. The third wire (brown?) is used for a manual switch which we do not have on our 248s.

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4

Thanks for the info. I plan to replace the pump, but was unsure where to wire in for power as the connector I have in the sump access area is junk after sitting in water for years.

I am also wondering if anyone has added a manual switch to control this pump. I was thinking about running a switch into the head compartment. I seem to have a space for one next to the light switch. This way when someone was taking a shower, they could just flip the switch vs. hoping the float in the pump did get stuck?

Has anyone done this? How hard is it to get from the little access panel with the light switch in the head to the sump access area?



Thanks!

It would be actually pretty easy to get the switch to the pump. Just go under the starboard half closet and then under the head.

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Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4