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 Post subject: Re: Rain water
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 6:46 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
rberm wrote:
I have discovered that after heavy rain I get an accumulation of water in the bilge but only on the starboard side in the area under the sea strainer. I tasted the water and it is fresh water non-salty and the strainer housing is all dry. Anyone else have this ocurring? I can't figure out how the water would get in that area. The port side is completely dry.


Check the hot water heater connections. There's a drain valve on the forward-facing starboard side. It's a LOOOONG reach to get to it. Make sure it's tightly closed. I often end up using a long screwdriver to creep the handle around. If that wasn't fully closed it'd leak fresh water. There are also hoses that connect to it. Look at them to see if there's any moisture on them (there shouldn't be). If they're leaking then it's an easy fix to simply pull the tubing tight to make a more secure connection.

Here's a suggestion, take the boat off shore water connection (if it's connected). Turn on the fresh water pump and have no sinks or shower running. Turn off the ice maker if it's equipped. Sit and listen to hear if the fresh water pump kicks in. It should not. The pump should only run when something is draining water from the system (like a sink, shower or ice maker). If you hear the pump come on for a brief interval then there's a leak.

My hot water tank developed a tiny split near the inlet connection. A small crack developed and the water leaked out. I found this by seeing a small rivulet of water running down from what "looked like" the area under the starboard seacock. I checked all the tubing and the shut-off valve, with no success. It wasn't until I poked a finger into the gap near the water heater inlet fitting and noticed the insulation was WET. I had to pull the whole heater and replace it (under warranty). I did it myself to save me from dealer incompetence. Hopefully you'll have better luck.

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 Post subject: Re: Rain water
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 5:17 pm 
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Sierra

Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:00 pm
Posts: 741
Location: East Coast
rberm wrote:
I have discovered that after heavy rain I get an accumulation of water in the bilge but only on the starboard side in the area under the sea strainer. I tasted the water and it is fresh water non-salty and the strainer housing is all dry. Anyone else have this ocurring? I can't figure out how the water would get in that area. The port side is completely dry.


I was troubleshooting the same issue today. One theory is that when water accumulates in the compartment where the transom shower is, water could potentially leak through the hole where the shower hose drops into the bilge.

I was actually down in that part of the engine compartment because I experienced my first "how could I do something so stupid" moment with the 358. After filling (only partially) the fresh water tank and turning on the fresh water pump, I heard the pump turn on for no apparent reason and continue to run after the system had primed. I killed the breaker, opened the engine compartment and saw the starboard side will a few inches of water. Stuck my head in further while a friend flipped the pump back on and there was water spraying from a coupling all the way in the back aft of the heater, just about under the transom utility compartment. Got out the manual trying to figure out what the coupling services (and I'm still not so sure) but while in the book, read something I never saw or knew before: "when filling the fresh water tank, never seal the hose to the deck plate. The tank will become pressurized and could rupture." Oops. I was so pleased that the hose sat so firmly in the deck plate not realizing that I probably put undue pressure on the system and pushed the hose out of its fitting enough to lose the seal. Fortunately, I think that's all the damage I did. I don't know much about plumbing, but I was able to reseat the hose, although now there's a small drip when the pump is turned on. I'll figure it out (and would love suggestions on properly connecting a hose to a fitting where there are no threads - just an O ring) but lesson learned.

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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Sierra

Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:00 pm
Posts: 741
Location: East Coast
Better Luck wrote:
Galvonic isolator system view in the electrical panel is not showing green when on shore power.


Steven - did you get an answer on this? I noticed the same thing this weekend and now can't remember if I ever saw them on. Anyone else?

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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 5:41 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:44 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Sydney Australia
Sierra wrote:
Better Luck wrote:
Galvonic isolator system view in the electrical panel is not showing green when on shore power.


Steven - did you get an answer on this? I noticed the same thing this weekend and now can't remember if I ever saw them on. Anyone else?


Hi Sierra, I wondered about this, when my boat is on shore power the light glows a very dull green, certainly not bright like the other lights.

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2008 V288 with twin 5 litre Seacores
http://www.galwayhouse.com.au


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 Post subject: Re: Rain water
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 6:47 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Sierra wrote:
I'll figure it out (and would love suggestions on properly connecting a hose to a fitting where there are no threads - just an O ring) but lesson learned.


The fittings are made by Whale. They operate sort of like the old Chinese handcuffs trick. It's the pulling pressure outward that tightens the seal. You push the 15mm tubing into the socket and then pull it back again WITH the tan collar. It's the pulling outward of that collar that snugs down a connection to the tubing. Likewise, to break a connection you just push the tube WITH the collar into the connector, then back out just the tube. It's rather ingenious. It's simple enough for the low pressure situations used in a boat.

I put a bypass connection around my water pump so I can refill the tank from the shore water connection. I hate dragging out the hose just to fill the tank. It means keeping an extra hose on board and ready to go. Or a much longer one on the dock (leading to coiling issues). The only downside is I have to watch the tank level carefully otherwise the tank starts swelling up. The inlet through the shore water can deliver more pressure than the overflow vent can handle. Same deal with pushing a hose into the deck fill plate. Make too tight a seal and overfill the tank and that pressure will have to go somewhere else, likely blowing a fitting.

It should be a simple matter to just reseat that tube and you'll be good to go.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista


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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 7:35 pm 
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email admin your custom rank
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 7:51 am
Posts: 253
Location: Northern Virginia
Sierra wrote:
Better Luck wrote:
Galvonic isolator system view in the electrical panel is not showing green when on shore power.


Steven - did you get an answer on this? I noticed the same thing this weekend and now can't remember if I ever saw them on. Anyone else?


No answers on that yet. I saw dim green lights last night but I think it was just stray light from the green shore power green lights. I did look on some web sites after looking at the parts list on fourwinns.net and to the best of my knowledge I think they should be steady green and as bright as the shore power a/c lights.

I think the water pressure is great. Had my first shower on board last night and it was wonderful. We do not need full pressure at the galley sink either.

My dealer added some weather stripping around the dunage box locker on the transom. We'll see if that helps keep the area drier.

Got my Sirius working though the Weather part is not coming up on my c80 plotter. Not sure what that is about.

Our Cockpit courtesy lights are still acting up. They come on dimly even when switched off, last night we had a bunch of friends on board and the lights were actually flickering. I am wondering if there is some sensor for these lights and the dim setting is automatic. Anyone notice that yet?

Our Stereo transom remote display is inop.

Anyone try playing a DVD on the cabin TV? Could not configure that to play down there at all. I was using the DVD player where the stereo head units are located. I got the DVD to play up in the cockpit but not down below. How difficult would it be to wire the DVD player sound to come through the stereo up there in the cockpit? and or the cabin for the other stereo.

I did some exploring and pulled the back cushion off of the sofa down in the cabin which is where the Kicker amp is. It looks like the amp controls both head units. There are adjustments for gain and sub-woofer output on the amp if you want to tweak your sound system.

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    2008 Four Winns V358 (T 6.2L Merc Bravo III's with DTS and SeaCore)
    2006 Sea Ray 340DA
    2006 Sea Ray 320DA
    2005 Maxum 3100 SE


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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 8:11 pm 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
I wired up our DVD player into the AUX port on the radio. I only have one radio head unit. The DVD player itself also has an AUX input. I wired up the iPod to go into the DVD player. The DVD player simply passes the AUX input through when it's not actually playing a DVD. This works nicely. I suppose you could get a splitter and drive the signal to both head units (that is if you have 2 of them). But then since I only have one radio I really can't say for sure just how yours should or shouldn't be working. All I know is that mine defaulted to sending audio and video only to the TV itself. The AUX connection I had to do myself (and it wasn't terribly difficult).

The transom remote not working often means just a loose cable. The remote itself has a short cable on it. There's a connector there that can come loose. Then there's that same sort of short cable on the back of the radio, it likewise can come loose. Check one, then the other, you've got a 50/50 shot at picking the right one, heh.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista


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 Post subject: Galvanic Isolator lights
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:23 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 108
Location: Jersey Shore
When I sea trialed my new 358 that was one of the items that the captain went over. He told me that the lights are typically very dim and hard to see.
As for my water in the bilge, I always turn off most of the breakers when I leave the boat for the week. The fresh water pump is definitely one of those that I shut down.

Does anyone turn off the battery switches in the control panel by the transom door? I was reading in the manual that these switches should be turned off when you leave the boat and have shore power connected. The batteries are continually charged as long as you leave the battery charger breaker on. I did this last week and when I got to the boat on Saturday I had full charges on batteries and she fired right up.

A question on the AC/Heat, When my unit is running on AC it is nice and quiet and air is very cold. When I switch over to heat a pump or something kicks in and is very noisy. I hear a whurring sound and a vibration sound that is very metalic like a metal cover or something rattling.

Where is all the warm weather?? feels more like fall than spring. I'm hoping for some nice weather this memorial day weekend. :D

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1999 SeaRay340 Sundancer
1989 SeaRay 260 Cuddy


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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:49 pm 
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Sierra

Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:00 pm
Posts: 741
Location: East Coast
Bill - thanks for the plumbing help. It sounds like I put it back together properly, although there is still a small drip when the fresh water pump is turned on - could I have blown out the O-ring (I really know nothing about plumbing)?

Steven - did you check your order sheet to see if you got the disco lighting option which includes the flickering blue lights :lol: (sorry, couldn't resist).
The DVD is wired to the 'Video' input on the salon TV. If you're not seeing it there, something's amiss. You should see RCA plugs going into the right side of the back of the TV when you're looking at it from the back.
My E80 is not receiving weather either. I'm fairly certain the antenna must be disconnected on the SR100 weather receiver (I checked the antenna side and it's fine). Under the diagnostic menu it gives a value of '0' for the antenna so I'm guessing that means it doesn't think it is connected to one. They're coming back to take care of a few things so I'll let them pull the E80 out to get to the SR100.
Please let us know how that weather stripping works out on the transom.

Rberm - I always turn off the engine batteries when I'm done being on the water for the day. I do leave the 'ship systems' switch on. I can't help you on the heat/AC issue as I've only used the heat and it sounds fine to me - the fan is always running and it has the sound of a compressor kicking in when it the heat cycle engages.

Beautiful weather begins Friday and lasts all summer 8)

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2008 V358/Volvo 5.7 GXi Inboards


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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:28 am 
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wkearney99

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 3:50 pm
Posts: 2444
Location: Boat in Annapolis, live in Bethesda, MD
Fortunately the plumbing fittings are relatively cheap. A local west marine had them, as did a shop at a full service marina. I've never disassembled one looking for an O-ring. Depending on which connection is involved it's either a simple slip fitting on both ends or a 1/2" threaded fitting on one side. Nothing too complex. You do want to eliminate the drip as eventually it'll end up staining the surfaces on which it leaks. That and cause the pump to run on/off all night long. Since it's mounted under the forward berth this gets old fast.

I almost never use the shut-off switches at the transom. I do use the 'Cabin Main' and 'Helm' breakers to kill DC power. That and I never leave anything but the Battery Charger breaker closed on the AC voltage side. I do leave the AC running in dehumidify mode. You press Heat, Cool and Fan buttons together (a triangle) to activate it. This serves to keep moisture levels down and to help stop things growing in the cabin. It runs about once an hour for a few minutes most days.

The refrigerator is probably the single biggest wattage drain on your boat. If you shut off shore power you'll force it to run off the ship system battery. It will drain the single battery inside of 2 days time. The answer is either leave it on shore power or turn it off. We find the inconvenience of having to lug refrigerated foodstuffs back and forth great enough to leave it on shore power instead. I added two batteries to make it non-issue for a full weekend of traveling. When we had only the one battery it was absolutely necessary to remember to use the OFF switch on the fridge to kill power to it. I'd MUCH prefer a flippable breaker on the panel instead of the pop-up style. So unless you're prepared to add batteries you'll want to get familiar with the ON/OFF switch on the fridge.

Right now we only end up using the genset for coffee in the AM, blender drinks in the afternoon and occasionally the AC when it's too hot (which wasn't very often we found). Things may change as we'll probably have to run the genset a bit more to keep it cool for the new baby we're expecting any week now.

The E- and C-series chart plotters use different weather boxes. The E-series SR100 connects via ethernet, which isn't present on a C-series unit. But fundamentally they're both the same, power to the interface, antenna and a connection to the chartplotter. The chartplotter won't show you weather options unless it sees the box. So if you get weather menus then the connection to it and it's power are likely working. That leaves the antenna. The cable connection to the box itself may be the culprit, it tends to work loose since it's not a threaded fitting (at least it wasn't on mine).

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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:37 pm 
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email admin your custom rank

Joined: Fri Sep 14, 2007 9:13 am
Posts: 313
kinkster wrote:
jrcinnh is the salon table under the forward berth cushions? just a thought as that where it is on the 288.
Good luck with the new boat, love to see some pics.


Yes, I'm sure that's where it is, I forgot to look there. Lifted up the mattress but not the base.

Here are two pictures, more to come.

Image
Image

Note the list from one tank filled.

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2008 V358 Two-tone Blue V/P Dual Prop 320 HP
Lake Winnipesaukee, NH


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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:01 pm 
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Sierra

Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:00 pm
Posts: 741
Location: East Coast
JR - She looks great! The 'Belle' of the marina, I'm sure.

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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Sting Ray

Joined: Tue Jun 20, 2006 11:54 am
Posts: 71
Location: NE Ohio , boat is on the ohio river
Those 348-358 are sure beautiful boats, good luck with them, Joe.

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 Post subject: Re: V348/V358 Thread
PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 6:45 am 
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Shark

Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:44 pm
Posts: 110
Location: Sydney Australia
jrcinnh wrote:
kinkster wrote:
jrcinnh is the salon table under the forward berth cushions? just a thought as that where it is on the 288.
Good luck with the new boat, love to see some pics.


Yes, I'm sure that's where it is, I forgot to look there. Lifted up the mattress but not the base.


Note the list from one tank filled.

Jrcinnh,
Hi nice boat!
and yes I can see the list. Hope the weather is kind to you this weekend.
Its starting to cool down here, although its probably not what you guys would call cool compared to your winter's.

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2008 V288 with twin 5 litre Seacores
http://www.galwayhouse.com.au


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 Post subject: Re: galvanic isolators
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 11:27 pm 
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Shark

Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:31 am
Posts: 108
Location: Jersey Shore
I just discovered that the galvanic isolator indicator lights are conected to the panel lights. If the panel lights switch is off the galvanic isolator lights go off. Turn the panel lights on and voalla the galvanic isolator lights come on.

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1999 SeaRay340 Sundancer
1989 SeaRay 260 Cuddy


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