www.iFourWinns.com

Putting in non heated storage previous owner pumped anti freeze into engine with muffs and drill pump Mechanic says not necessary Boat is raw water cooled What do you guys think live in British Columbia might see a couple degrees below freezing for a week or so

shuman

If your mechanic will replace anything that breaks from freeze damage free of charge, then you'll be fine. Otherwise protect your investment and get a new mechanic

John

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07 Azure AZ200,
Previous boat,
95 278 Vista,
And a lot of others.

Ontario, Canada

I would drain the blocks and then put some antifreeze in there. You could get. Away with just draining but then you are more prone to having some rust in there.
Or just go with Winter's plan above, that will also work if your mechanic will sign off on it

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

Yep!

The minute air meets previously wet iron, rust/corrosion starts. Seen the Titanic lately? Thats what the inside of your block will look like...

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1996 205 Sundowner DLX
5.0FL Volvo SX Cobra
Tow Veh: 2012 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X

It's not clear how exactly they are getting the AF in the engine, any method that does not involve draining all the raw water out first is risky. If you read real shop manuals from Merc, OMC or Volvo, they all say drain manually and then back fill with AF if you want additional corrosion protection. Sucking AF up the drive, is risky because if the thermo does not open, you will have manifolds full of AF, a block mostly full of raw water and a cracked engine in the spring. Either just drain, or drain and back fill.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Lou is right. Like you need me!! Thats one reason I like having a closed system. Air will never get in and the block will never freeze under normal conditions. The e. manifolds and some hoses can if not done right.

I want to convert my raw water fed engine to a closed system since I am a salty. Looking into systems that might fit the bill. Your engine must look brand new and your risers and manifolds also right.

How long have you run it in salt? I'd contact the makers of closed systems like SanJuan Engineering and ask, because once the internal rusting starts, that rust will clog the heat exchanger. I have heard that if its more than 100 hrs it's too much corrosion, but I'd look at the Thermo housing and see if there is flaking rust there. When I re power my boat, it will be with a new crate engine with closed cooling.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I have clocked 200.9 today after I ran her after I changed the oil. I looked inside the oil fill and everything looks brand new in there. I know the O-ring is missing I put it on after I took the picture. I am at a loss where the brand new sparkplug wires I purchased from you have escaped to in my house they are missing in action. I know I just recently changed the oil but when I drained it the oil seemed very dirty so I opted for some new oil it can't hurt. So I guess I will keep running her with the raw water setup since it's a waste of money to change it now. I haven't pulled the risers off yet even though my friend told me it was simple to do, it seems a bit daunting to me. Crikey! Sorry for hijacking the thread shuman. How did it go putting her in storage.