www.iFourWinns.com

My Vista 268,year 2000, has a leaky trim tab. Has anyone tried a DIY repair?

(Rams)? If they are Bennett s, call them and get the repair kit. All it is, is two o-rings.

Thanks they are Bennet but I ordered a new cylinder as I was told at the marina that they do supply repair kits anymore due to an eye injury caused by a flying spring during take apart. I have to wait till spring as the boat has been shrink wrapped and put away for the winter. Can you take the cylinder off from outside ? or is there a hydraulic fitting inside the hull in the engine compartment that must come off first ? My concern here is that I do not think that I will have access to the trim tab top of cylinder from inside the hull.

I just received two sets of kits from them. Someone isn't giving you the straight skinny. There is a piece of 1/2 inch pvc cut in half in the kit to hold back the spring when you unscrew the end caps. In fact they will send you the kits for free.The o rings are a one size fits all
You do the complete job from out side the boat. You don't remove the cyl. Hold off on the new cyl, until you talk to Bennett

Hope this helps

Troubleshooting: Leaking Actuator - Bennett Trim Tabs
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Guide to Trim Tabs Hydraulic vs. ... Video Library Home » Troubleshooting: Leaking Actuator ... Contact Bennett at 954-427-1400 for free o-ring replacements

Thank you Thalasso ! That has been very helpfull. I will go back to my supplier again. I bent both trim tabs as they were in the down position when I yanked the boat up too far on a trailer that was new to me and too big for the boat. Both tabs were bent with only the port cylinder leaking . ( I refloated the boat and readjusted it on the trailer ) My plan in the spring is to remove the tabs, pound them out flat again and repair the port cylinder . Thanks again for your help.

I have changed the port side actuator on my 2004. Access for me is definitely easier on that side and I imagine yours is the same. My fresh water tank is on the starboard side. It is a very easy job but be sure to order the correct one. There are three ring and four ring sizes (the rings are on the outside of the actuator). There is a brass nipple that connects to the top portion of the actuator and goes through the hull. Disconnect the 90 degree fitting from the nipple from inside the boat. Unscrew the actuator from the tab and the hull and pull it off the hull. It will be stuck with whatever sealant they used so you may need to help it along by prying it with a screwdriver. Screw the brass nipple that goes through the hull into the actuator. Do not use teflon and do not over tighten the nipple as you may strip the plastic threads. There is a small o-ring in there to seal it. I put tape over the end of the nipple so I didnt get any sealant in it as I pushed it back through the hole in the hull. I don't remember what sealant I used but load up the hole and put some where the top of the actuator connects to the hull. Reconnect the inside fittings, move it up and down a few times to bleed any air and you're done. The inside fittings may require teflon, I forget now, but look at the 90 degree fitting that connects to the nipple and see if there is an o-ring in there. Piece of cake.

captain dave

Any update??