www.iFourWinns.com

It seems my fresh water pump is cycling every 30 minutes or so, for maybe 10-15 seconds. I've checked for leaks and leaky faucets, I've cleaned the pump filter, verified there is lots of water getting to the pump. Is it possible that the pump itself is causing the issue? Maybe a valve that is letting the pressure drop in the line?

Thanks,

Steve.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Assuming there are no obvious leaks, check the o rings on the quick connect pipe-fittings that go in/out of the pump. Mine had become less pliable and allowed a small amount of air to get into the system. Caused the pump to cycle every 5 minutes.

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Current Boat:
2006 Chaparral 310 Signature

Previous:
2003 268 Vista
2004 Sea Doo GTX

Seems like this might be a good place to look. Are you referring to the black, rotating fittings that are attached to the pump? How do they come off?

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Had he same problem last weekend. Found 2 things, forgot nd the relief valve on the hot water tank leaking into the bilge and also found the pressure switch on the pump itself a little touchy. Took the switch off of the pump and excercised it and it seem to do the trick

_________________
2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

Yep, should be the fittings on the ends of the pipe that lead into and out of the pump. I also had an issue a couple years ago with the fresh water filter leaking... had a small crack in it. Ended up with a replacement from west marine.

_________________
Current Boat:
2006 Chaparral 310 Signature

Previous:
2003 268 Vista
2004 Sea Doo GTX

You most likley have a leak albeit a small one. Mine was doing something similar last year, I could not find any leak. I was down in the engine compartment one day checking fluid levels and I caught a drip comming from behind the shore water connector, dripping in the bilge. Very slow leak. Once I tightend the connection, the pump stopped cycling.

_________________
Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Are you saying that the hot water relief valve was leaking? If so, how did you fix it? This is one spot I haven't tried yet. I installed a shutoff valve immediately following the pump, and closed it - and no pump cycling. So at least I know it's not the water tank leaking or an issue with the pump. I've replaced the transom shower, which was leaking - but that hasn't fixed the issue, still cycling. I'm starting to wonder if there could be a crack in the hose running down the port side of the boat in the 'conduit'. Of course this area is impossible to get to, along with a lot of the water connections which are visible but out of reach.
Has anyone actually managed to get inside the port side of the engine compartment? Any tricks to getting in, and hopefully out? I need to get in there for sure now as my vacuum pump is acting like it needs new duck bills, and I need to inspect the long water line run.

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Post-winterizing and leaks can be a challenge to track down.

Mine was from a crack in the shower mixer valve. Dealer did a half-assed job winterizing and it developed a hairline crack. Just enough to make the pump run like yours. The time I spent debugging that nonsense convinced me to learn to do the winterizing myself from that point forward.

Most connections are within reach, just not always convenient reaches. The stuff behind the cabinets can usually be gotten to by pulling out drawers or the fridge. For areas without access they're usually run with continuous pieces of tubing.

You might want to consider fashioning a test cap of some sort. Get some tubing and a shutoff valve. Pop off existing sections and use your test piece to isolate if the leak is before or after that segment. That would've been my next step had I not noticed a tiny bit of water leaking from behind the shower mixer escutcheon plate.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Is there a deck panel above that comes out? I've never seen a 99 328 so I couldn't say, but on our 348 there's a whole section of the decking above the pump and water heater area that comes up and out. Lots of screws to remove, the seating above and then it helps to have two people to lift out the section. It basically comprises the facing upright portion of the locker under the seating and the floor of it.

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-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

I have no issue accessing the ports side as I do not have a genny there is a ton of room!! As for the relief valve you can check and see if it is dripping in to the bilge. I eventually ended up replacing mine. It is a 1/2" relief valve you can pick one up at Home Depot or pay the marina price of $40. Little cheaper if you don't get it at the marina

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2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike

I do have the gen - but surprisingly managed to wedge myself into the port side next to the engine. There is actually more room in there than I thought.
I'm pretty sure the whole back section can be lifted off - but that would be a heck of a lot of work - and thankfully not required in this case.
I found the leak! Thank you for the temp and pressure relief valve idea - that proved to be my issue as well. I installed a couple of 'shark bite' brand shut off valves at places to isolate the system. Now the pump still runs a bit - for less than 1 second every 4-5 minutes, much better than 10-15 seconds every 30 seconds. So the issue is getting smaller.
My relief valve is rated for 150PSI - I have read that some marine hot water tanks are only rated for 70PSI and so putting a 150PSI valve would be a safety issue. I can't be sure that my 150PSI valve is original so I don't want to blindly replace it with another. Does anyone know the original hot water heater model/brand? The FourWinns part site was not helpful in identifying this. If nothing else - if someone can let me know the PSI rating of their hot water tank that would also give me a good idea.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help,

Steve.

_________________
1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

Our hot water heater thermostat and relief valve was just replaced last week.

I noticed when checking our bilge after coming in from the lake that the tube from the relief valve would be draining hot water into our bilge. The heat exchanger was heating the water heater. Didn't really notice the relief valve run off before since we turn and hot water heater on around dinner time to do dishes but have the water heater off otherwise. No good reason why we use the hot water heater like this, just a habit we got into. We don't have our fresh water pump on at the dock when connected to shore power and when out on the water away from the dock we typically don't turn the fresh water pump on unless we need the water to rinse of food. Most times out we don't require having the fresh water pump on.

But I would bet that the amount our relief valve was peeing water out when our hot water heater was hot would cause the fresh water pump to cycle a good amount.

If someone does not reply about relief valve rating, I can look at ours when back at the boat this weekend.

Mike.

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Current Boat
- 2001 Four Winns 328 Vista "Hour Decision"
- 2010 310 Mercury Inflatable

Previous Boats
- 30' Doral Prestancia
- 25' Doral Citation

If it an attwood heater, here is the replacment part. its calling for a 150 psi valve

http://www.marinepartssource.com/productsmfg.asp?mfg=Atwood%20Mobile%20Products&mcat1=2&mcat2=0&mcat3=0&Category=Water%20Heater%20Replacement%20Parts

_________________
Jeff

'14 Cruisers 380 Express "Simon Sez"
Merc 8.2 Mag MPI 380
DTS B3X, (x2) Axius Premier


(SOLD)
'08 V318
Merc 350 Mag MPI 300
DTS Seacore, B3 (x2)

Thank you for the replies. I haven't had the chance to check the nameplate, but every indication is that the hot water heater is in fact an Atwood 93882 10.5G. None of the manuals directly specify a 75 or 150PSI valve, but Atwood does indicate that the capacities are calculated at 150PSI, and there are 75PSI valves available for the 220V heaters. It would seem that 150PSI is the correct valve.
I was simply concerned that the wrong valve could cause a very nice explosion, or at least cause the internals of the water heater to rupture.
Good thing about that - I can buy the replacement at HomeDepot as they carry the 150PSI valves - perfect!

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1969 Chris Craft Commander 47
1999 Four Winns 328 Vista - SOLD

My tank is an atwood hot water tank, not sure of the model if that helps you out. I'm sure they are the same

_________________
2001 328 Vista "Nauta Dream 2"
AB Inflatable 10AL "Little Dreamer"
2000 248 Vista
1997 225 Sundowner


Mike