By vented, I'm guessing you mean the fridge? There's typically just enough natural convection from a gap below the face of the cabinet, up behind the fridge, and then out around a port hole above (if there's one in the cabinet like on our 348).
Some fridges have support for a 12v fan being added to help cool the compressor. This keeps it from running as often, which uses less power and extends your battery time when at anchor. I had to add the fan myself to the back of the fridge, and I just used a simple 12v computer fan (120mm, iirc).
I think when they make most of these boats all the wiring is already installed, even if the options aren't. It's easier to put that stuff into place during manufacturing. It might be money wasted if the customer doesn't chose the options, but if they did that 'lost' money would get chewed up pretty fast retrofitting the wire.
Just be aware some models and circuits sometimes used somewhat undersized wire for their 12v side. Just be prepared to run a bit of heavier gauge wire for the DC side if it's not enough. One way to determine this is to check the voltage level when the fridge is connected and running. Compare that against a measurement directly from the batteries. If it's more than a half volt lower at the fridge then you might want to run heavier wire. This because under load the smaller wire would incur losses that a larger one wouldn't. Lower voltage means the motor in the fridge compressor works harder, using more power from the system and slightly heating up the wire in the process. Larger wire helps avoid that voltage drop and loss.
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