wkearney99 wrote:
Heh, the most common way to 'test' the ignition is to wiggle it. If that affects the circuit then replace it.
But I'd lean more toward checking the grounding system.
This is one of those areas where if you make the time you can avoid paying a mechanic a lot of money to hunt everything down. It can rack up serious money on labor trying to find electrical gremlins. That and if you're willing to be methodical about it you can probably do as good a job or better. Just be sure to have the right nut driver tools handy and some emery cloth and/or sandpaper. You don't want to be using pliers or a crescent wrench on the terminal posts. You want a straight-on tool to deal with each connection individually. This to avoid pressing against the others and possibly disrupting them.
ANY TIME YOU WORK ON THE ELECTRIC YOU SHOULD ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE SYSTEM IS OFF. No shore power, no batteries turned on, nothing. You can burn the hell out of yourself if a tool slips across terminals and shorts them out while they're live. Don't skip turning everything off.
Thanks! Not sure I'd see anything wiggling the ignition as it only happens when I turn it off, but I'll give it a shot.
You know that reminds me that I removed all the battery cables and cleaned the posts and re-attached and I had no problems for quite some time(I believe). So I will try to get to every contact I can find and clean and tighten.
Wish I had the boat here to maintain it every night, I have to give up time on the lake to do maintenance items/troubleshooting, but HOA forces storage area...next house WILL have RV parking.
Been burned by electricity lot's of times even 480vDC arc from a tube television. When I got into electronics forever ago, I fixed TV's CBs, and car stereo's so I have an idea...but it's been a long time, now I only muss with computers.
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Chris and Alicia
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ALTIVA
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