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 Post subject: 5.7 manifolds and risers
PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:31 am 
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Joined: Fri Apr 12, 2013 3:56 pm
Posts: 305
Location: Southern ohio
Starting running a little hotter than normal last year. My vista had been in salt prior to me and never had manifolds changed. So. Here we go!

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Untitled by rick2752, on Flickr

Removing exhaust boot clamps.

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Untitled by rick2752, on Flickr

Risers came off without a hitch. Glad I decided to change them.

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Manifold by rick2752, on Flickr

As expected, the last manifold bolt broke off, Drilled the center out and soaked it overnight with penetrating oil. To be continued......

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2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 5:43 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
One of OMCs better ideas was that they used plated studs and nuts to hold the manifolds on. They don't corrode even though my boat is in a salt water environment all season long. I've had em off 3 times (2 manifold changes and once last year to replace flappers) with no problem. I'd try to add studs and nuts to any inboard I own in the future.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 6:16 am 
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Good effort. Mine were just as bad, if not worse! :roll:
I plan to buy stainless bolts to alleviate this risk on my 1 piece headers.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 6:33 am 
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With the bolt sticking out like that...I'd be tempted to try vice grips on it to slowly back it out.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:32 am 
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firecadet613 wrote:
With the bolt sticking out like that...I'd be tempted to try vice grips on it to slowly back it out.

...and before doing that, rap on the bolt with a hammer (as if driving a nail). Driving it inward helps break it loose. Of course you are already soaking with penetrating oil.

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"Knot Easy" 2000 Horizon 240 Volvo 5.7GS /SX
tow: 2017 Honda PILOT EXL-AWD
prev. boats:
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:23 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
The studs on mine appear to be cadmium plated and have no corrosion at all. I have heard that stainless bolts are not a good idea because they can be prone to galling and seizing. I have had good results coating the bolts for the thermostat housing with OMC gasket sealer.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 10:35 am 
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Location: Orange County, CA
Rick2752,


Curious as to what replacement manifolds and risers you are going with?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 11:06 am 
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Location: Southern ohio
Vicegrips. Tried that first. Hitting with hammer did that also. Hole is drilled all the way through. And soaking from inside out. If no luck I will heat it. I bought the made in the USA Barr manifolds and risers. They were around 600 for my motor from lighthouse marine.

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2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 11:33 am 
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Location: Orange County, CA
Rick,

Lighthouse is where I got my manifolds and risers last year..........they had the best price that I could find on Barr products.........good choice!


I would like to share with you one nice modification that I made.........on the back end (next to transom) of the manifold there is a 1/2 NPT threaded hole where a plug goes......for easy draining purposes, I installed a Fumoto drain valve in that hole......this allows me to drain the water out of the manifold after each use......

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 1:49 pm 
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If its the same Lighthouse Marine they are local to me (Riverhead LI, NY).
About the bolt, I'd probably try heating the area of the head around the threads to break it free.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Location: Southern ohio
Pretty sure it's the same one. They were very helpful and shipping was only 25 bucks. That's cheap for 2 manifolds and 2 risers. That bolt is finally out, but it was a bear. I wound up drilling all the way until I could see the threads starting to show, then I used a tap to clean hole out. I heated it glowing, beat on it put an easy out in and started to try to break it loose, but then I chickened out. Those damn things always break on me. So I drilled again and just cleaned the threads with tap. On to the other side and the same bolt froze up on me again. This time I put the big impact on it and it came right out. Should have them back on tomorrow. Lou I'm gonna search tomorrow but do you know torque specs on manifold bolts? Johnny I already have a similar valve on my manifolds, maybe it was so they could flush the salt?? I plan on putting them on new manifolds if I don't break them off also...lol

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2001 Four Winns Vista 248 by rick2752, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:03 am 
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Rick2752 wrote:
Lou I'm gonna search tomorrow but do you know torque specs on manifold bolts?


Looked in my OMC shop manual, 20-26 lbs, I just get em nice and snug and I'd use gasket sealer on those bolts in case you ever have to take them out again. It keeps them from corroding in the head.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 2:15 am 
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Great pictures thanks for sharing


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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:01 pm 
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Location: Southern ohio
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Untitled by rick2752, on Flickr
Got them all off.

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Untitled by rick2752, on Flickr
New ones all cleaned up

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image by rick2752, on Flickr

All done just a few loose ends to tie up.

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Untitled by rick2752, on Flickr
New thermostat also. There is an o-ring that holds it in place

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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 6:32 pm 
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Location: Long Island NY
Nice Rick, since you're in freshwater I bet you won't have to do it again.
I like seeing "Made In USA" on those manifolds....
We have to do this about every 5-7 years. That's why I like the use of studs and nuts instead of bolts. Makes the tear down a lot easier.

Today I did most of my gettin' ready stuff, tune up, checking the points, dwell and timing, new plugs, cleaning the flame arrestor, tightening the belts, etc. And here's one more thing to check. Last year when I had the little hose that goes from the transom to the P/S cooler (this is a Cobra but if you have a Volvo SX you have the same set up) pop off at the P/S cooler it caused a bad overheat as you can imagine. I'd advise anyone, to get a 5/32nds box end wrench and use it to tighten up all the hose clamps esp those. These hose clamps do loosen over time but its not something you might thing to check.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Last edited by LouC on Sun May 04, 2014 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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