www.iFourWinns.com

I think you're right Alex. .circuit breaker. I checked all of them first. So that's not it. Just went through and checked from the ignition switch to the ignition relay. I have power all the way through. So going to get a relay in the morning and see if that's it. I was told that these are no different than automotive so I should be able to get one at an auto parts store. It's a Hella 4RD 960 388-31 1688314C1 o Reillys has one r3177 ignition relay for a 1995 ford 5.8l..could this work? I'm probably going to try it in the morning.

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Chris and Alicia
Las Vegas, NV
ALTIVA
1996 Four Winns 238 Vista Dlx 5.8Fi

Well replaced the relay...I can hear it click now (update, that is not the relay clicking...it was the hour meter). But still don't hear the fuel pump prime (and yes I always heard it before) and she still won't start. Now to figure out what powers the fuel pump. Mechanic seems to be MIA.

Update: found an engine schematic and traced the circuit. I now realize there is NO power going to my 12.5 amp circuit breaker, so the likely (and really only) culprit according to this schematic is a 50 AMP fuse it's the only thing between the battery and the circuit breaker...problem is...I have no idea where it is...I have checked all the fuse blocks, tried to trace the wire (electrical taped into the wiring harness) and even removed the battery selector switch to see if it might be behind that...no luck. HArd to believe there is a hidden 50 AMP fuse somewhere! Any idea where this could be? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

That would be #14

I assume you looked at the battery, within the first foot or two.

Yep, might very well be a large yellow waterproof fuse holder.

As alex said, should be within 2 feet of battery.

Getting closer to cracking this case

Doug

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2003 Four Winns 170 Freedom Cincinnati, Ohio / Cape Coral, Florida

Chris, look at the wires from the battery to the engine. Often they put an inline fuse in a smaller wire to power engine electrical systems. My 95 190 Horizon with a Ford 5.0 EFI had a bad fuse in this wire. It was a larger glass tube fuse. The end caps came un-soldered inside the fuse. Even the dealer had fun finding that one! They spliced in a new fuse holder and fuse and it worked normally. Not sure if this is it, but its worth checking. I'm not sure of the exact location on your boat but look for a power wire to the engine in the maybe 4 to 8 gauge size, probably in the engine compartment. This is in addition to the circuit breakers. Hope this helps.

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Did you locate #42 on this parts breakdown? Looks like what need to find.

http://www.volvopentashop.com/JHL/en-GB ... 797240_018

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2004 - 288 Vista
Twin - 5.0 Volvo Penta GXi DP

The in line fuse that failed for me was for the ECM ( engine's electronic control module or computer). On mine the fuse was within 2 feet of the + battery terminal. If you have separate engine and house batteries this fuse or cb might be between the battery selector switch and the engine's ECM. Mine looked great. It wasn't until we pulled lightly on the fuse's end caps that it came apart and showed that the solder had failed. The engine cranked but would not fire.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Sorry for the duplicate post.

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Thanks for all the feedback. So I just spent 6 hours trying to fix this. There is no fuse I am certain it's a 50 amp circuit breaker. I have power on both sides of the 50 amp. But none at the 12.5 amp either side. The battery wires (3 batteries) have only large battery wires running to the the battery switch. From the switch only to the starter and the circuit breaker panel and somehow to the key. ..

If I knew a little more about vehicle s...I think I would just run a new wire straight from the battery to the 12.5 amp breaker?

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Chris and Alicia
Las Vegas, NV
ALTIVA
1996 Four Winns 238 Vista Dlx 5.8Fi

In your wiring diagram, #14 appears to be a fuse holder for a 50 amp fuse feeding that circuit breaker. On my older style OMC, there are 2 50 amp fuses and a 20 amp fuse for the trim system. All of this wiring is snaked over the rear of the engine, and the fuse holders have metal brackets (called retainers in the parts diagram below) that keep them from getting loose. Look for something like that on the rear, or top of the engine near the bracket that supports the shift linkage....
Since yours is a joint venture Volvo/OMC model, its possible that Volvo just adopted OMC wiring conventions when they sold these models....

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-ev ... mdl=R7XD2F

Im not sure of your model # but this is the engine harness for the 5.8 EFI 1996 OMC version of the joint venture models and I bet if the model # is right its the same as yours. # 67 I think is the circuit breaker.
Take a look at your engine number, you might have an OMC # or a Volvo #....if it starts with a 58**** its OMC.
Look for a retainer like part # 97, this is what OMC used to keep the large fuse holders from coming apart.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

On my 190 the fuse holder was about 3/4" diameter in the red power wire going to the ECM. This "weather proof" rubber fuse holder had a wire clip to hold it together and the 50 amp glass tube fuse was approximately the diameter of a pencil. There was not any kind of label saying what it was. Mine was on the right side of the engine down low toward the back, but it could be anywhere in the power wire to the ECM. The wiring diagram shows #14 which is the fuse. The diagram does not show a battery switch for engine and house batteries so I am not sure where this wire connects to power. On my 190 it connected directly to the battery. On yours it might come from the battery switch. I know this is not directly related to changing the throttle/shifter, but it might be worth a look.

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

My lord Lou...you are the God King of Four Winns in my eyes. I never would have guessed I could find a picture of the wiring harness. As soon as I can get back on the boat I will be going through this and report back. Thank you so much!

Thank you as well SI. I am starting to think that maybe a cable hit the battery while it was being run through the hull, and perhaps blew this fuse.

If you look on the Volvo Penta store website link above and look at the engine harness for your model you will see that the engine harness pic is most likely identical to the OMC one I linked above which is what I suspected. So try to figure out where that #14 fuse holder is. Good Luck with it hope it's something simple like that... Maybe it got shorted when they disconnected the trim or nss wiring to install the new control. Here we are in a damp climate and salt air and those glass fuses can get oxidized enough to cause a dead circuit even if the fuse has continuity.

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

I am back in business! First Thank you so much to Lou, Si, Alex, and everyone else. Let me explain what Happened....

So last week when my mechanic came by to fix the stuck in reverse problem, he came across the broken controller within 15 minutes of getting there. So me figuring I was paying for an hour anyway I asked him if he would look at something else since he was there. My dash switch for my bilge pump is always hot, even with the batteries turned off. I don't mean the float, of course that's always hot. But the physical switch on my dash. So he checked a few things then pulled out my perko switch, removed a few wires and put them on different posts, couldn't see why it was that way and said he didn't know. Mind you my mechanic is very good, been doing this for a long time. I said ok and I would order a new control box to fix the reverse problem and would continue to be careful with the bilge switch.

Box came in last week, and he came by to install, new box, new cables, but no start...I think you see where this is going...

I have been troubleshooting, posting, digging through manuals all weekend. This morning I was certain it had to be this 50 amp fuse, but I could not locate it anywhere. I had removed the Perko switch at least 10 times, traced the wires and probed everything. Finally today I got a hold of a facebook group friend (if you aren't a member of Las Vegas Family Boaters you should join) whom I had never met, and he read my posts and decided this was something he'd come by and help me troubleshoot. Thank goodness another set of eyes. About 40 minutes of probing and checking he agreed that we needed to find this 50 amp fuse but neither of us could see where it might be. I mentioned that I had removed the Perko switch many times and that maybe we should look there again. THIS time when I removed it I noticed that there was not one but two separate pieces of wood that ran down the gunwall. in between them was about six inches of space I could not see. Then we looked at the switch...1,2,3,4,5,6 wires...wait the schematic shows 7 for an EFI ....that would be the wire that the fuse should be on....where is it????

He reaches his hand in between those two pieces of plywood and guess what????



It seems my mechanic dropped a wire when he was moving wires on the Perko. And of course it's the wire we've been looking for and right there is that fuse...fuse is fine the wire was not connected.

Screams of Joy and fist pumps all around! She is running again!

Again thank you all for your help we could not have done it without you!

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Chris and Alicia
Las Vegas, NV
ALTIVA
1996 Four Winns 238 Vista Dlx 5.8Fi

Bam!
I hope you shouted your buddy a few beers?!

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2011 Four Winns H180 SS.
Aussie built Mustang 2800.
SOLD - 1997 Four Winns Horizon RS