www.iFourWinns.com

Dedicated to Current and Future Owners
It is currently Thu May 01, 2025 7:05 pm

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 12:07 pm 
Offline
Minnow

Joined: Wed May 27, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 17
Bought this boat last year as somewhat of a project. Removed engine and I am taking it to the garage to have the new one put in. All new engine, exhaust, everything. The outdrive is still the original because from what I can tell it is still in good shape. The boat had sat for about 2 yrs outside with just the canvas cover. It originated from Maryland so it was used in salt water. What sort of things other than the engine should I check or replace? I posted some pictures below of the boat, if any one has any advice on what needs fixing that would be great. I know I need to replace the thru hull "fittings" but I am confused as to what all of them are called.


Image
Image
Image
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 4:26 pm 
Offline
email admin your custom rank

Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Welcome.

A 1999 or later boat, I had one ( the attachments of the trim cylinder rods to the outdrive and the cylinder body is the giveaway). Ye gods, I have never seen such UV damage to through hull fittings. Agreed though, that one is high up, it's a vent or a sink drain etc. The plastic ones with a stainless cap like those fitted to my 2004 boat look smart, are cheaper than full stainless and above the waterline they are perfectly good enough.

A hint when replacing them; use a low modulus moisture cure PU on the outside and tighten the nut on the inside of the hull finger tight. Leave for 24 hours or so then tighten up with a spanner ( wrench). The PU will have cured by then and you will be putting the bead of cured PU in compression; an excellent seal.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 4:50 pm 
Offline
email admin your custom rank

Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 7:24 pm
Posts: 618
Location: Lake St. Clair USA
Make sure you have the right anodes on the outdrive. If you are going to run it in fresh water, you will need magnesium or zinc for salt water.

_________________
NEW - 2000 Cobalt 246 w/454 Magnum 385HP | SOLD - 2000 FW Horizon 180 LS w/5.0Gi 250HP Volvo Penta

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 5:07 pm 
Offline
email admin your custom rank

Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5688
Location: Long Island NY
Based on my experience with slipped in salt water boats I'd:
Remove the drive (you probably already did this) and check the gimble bearing, ujoints, bellows etc.
Take a good look in the water intake holes in the lower unit. If you see any sign of barnacles or other crap growing in there, split the upper and lower gear housings and clean out the water intake area. Replace the water tube grommets. Paint the water intake area inside with Trilux-33. When you re-assemble the upper and lower, use OMC gasket sealer AKA Permatex Aviation sealer on the threads of all of the bolts. Check the plastic fitting in the pivot housing (part the drive bolts on to) for cracks, and if you need to replace the driveshaft bellows, replace that little hose too.
On the inside with the engine still out:
Check the joint between the Y pipe and the transom mount for leaks. Replace the gasket between them if you see any sign of leaks. Make sure the bolts holding the inner transom plate are tight.
On the engine: if its a plain steel oil pan, spray it well with Corrosion X HD or Boeshield. Install a new starter, and I'd consider replacing the engine coupler as well. Think of anything on the back of the engine you can't get at when its installed.
If the engine is really new, ADD CLOSED COOLING. Even if its just a half system, it will prolong engine life, add resale, and make winterizing easier. I would not install a new engine without closed cooling even in fresh water.
New exhaust? Good, because that's a major issue in the salt.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 5:31 pm 
Offline
email admin your custom rank

Joined: Thu May 18, 2006 12:31 pm
Posts: 2108
Location: Chester, UK
Lou,

Now it's sorted, the way it should have been done since new, you'd like the D4 in my boat !

The torque is unbelievable.

Come over to the UK and have a day out with us !


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 6:47 pm 
Offline
email admin your custom rank

Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 pm
Posts: 5688
Location: Long Island NY
Would love to do it, glad to hear that you've got all the issues worked out!!
My younger brother lived in the UK for about 5 years when he was working for Deutsche Bank about 20 years ago, they loved it there (London).
Every now and then he gets an invite to drive a high end sports car. Two weeks ago we drove out to McLaren Cars Long Island in Roslyn NY to drive a McLaren 650S. That's one nice product of the UK, made in a little town somewhere. The car is a rocket even if you are used to fast cars. The most impressive thing is the dual clutch transmission (no clutch pedal) the thing shifts so fast its just like listening to the F1 drivers at the GP of Canada (heading up there June 5,6,7 for the race) when they make 3 downshifts for a hairpin turn in what seems like seconds.

_________________
88 Four Winns 200 Horizon
4.3 OMC Cobra-4bbl
2002 Walker Bay 10/2012 Suzuki 2.5
2008 Walker Bay 8

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 8:58 pm 
Offline
Minnow

Joined: Wed May 27, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 17
Graham R wrote:
Welcome.

A 1999 or later boat, I had one ( the attachments of the trim cylinder rods to the outdrive and the cylinder body is the giveaway). Ye gods, I have never seen such UV damage to through hull fittings. Agreed though, that one is high up, it's a vent or a sink drain etc. The plastic ones with a stainless cap like those fitted to my 2004 boat look smart, are cheaper than full stainless and above the waterline they are perfectly good enough.

A hint when replacing them; use a low modulus moisture cure PU on the outside and tighten the nut on the inside of the hull finger tight. Leave for 24 hours or so then tighten up with a spanner ( wrench). The PU will have cured by then and you will be putting the bead of cured PU in compression; an excellent seal.


Thank you so much for your quick reply and advice! Unfortunately it does need a lot of little things. There is a leak and I'm pretty sure I need to re-bed my hatch and windows. My family has had cruisers my whole life and this is my first personal boat. Fairly new to all the work but I enjoy it!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 9:00 pm 
Offline
Minnow

Joined: Wed May 27, 2015 9:57 am
Posts: 17
LouC wrote:
Based on my experience with slipped in salt water boats I'd:
Remove the drive (you probably already did this) and check the gimble bearing, ujoints, bellows etc.
Take a good look in the water intake holes in the lower unit. If you see any sign of barnacles or other crap growing in there, split the upper and lower gear housings and clean out the water intake area. Replace the water tube grommets. Paint the water intake area inside with Trilux-33. When you re-assemble the upper and lower, use OMC gasket sealer AKA Permatex Aviation sealer on the threads of all of the bolts. Check the plastic fitting in the pivot housing (part the drive bolts on to) for cracks, and if you need to replace the driveshaft bellows, replace that little hose too.
On the inside with the engine still out:
Check the joint between the Y pipe and the transom mount for leaks. Replace the gasket between them if you see any sign of leaks. Make sure the bolts holding the inner transom plate are tight.
On the engine: if its a plain steel oil pan, spray it well with Corrosion X HD or Boeshield. Install a new starter, and I'd consider replacing the engine coupler as well. Think of anything on the back of the engine you can't get at when its installed.
If the engine is really new, ADD CLOSED COOLING. Even if its just a half system, it will prolong engine life, add resale, and make winterizing easier. I would not install a new engine without closed cooling even in fresh water.
New exhaust? Good, because that's a major issue in the salt.


Thank you! I have the old engine out already with a new one ready to be put it. I had the drive went over and serviced as well so hopefully it was thorough. And yes the exhaust was horrendous!


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 15 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group