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278 with D4 performance
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Author:  Graham R [ Fri Jul 22, 2016 5:25 pm ]
Post subject:  278 with D4 performance
Well, finally this year has allowed us to use our 2009 278 we've had since 2014 with some confidence. Previously, there's been problems with the EVC system/ MAP sensors ( plus a load of electrical problems caused by FW poor design and build quality).

After 6 weeks in the water, 38 knots( speedo and GPS), I'm well pleased. Half the fuel consumption compared to our previous 245 5.7GXi Sundowner. It's a crude sounding lump at low RPM though.
Author:  radiocontester [ Fri Jul 22, 2016 6:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 278 with D4 performance
Glad to hear it! Curious, what were some of the electrical issues you had trouble with?
Author:  deafwish [ Sun Jul 24, 2016 4:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 278 with D4 performance
More details please Graham! :D
Author:  Graham R [ Mon Jul 25, 2016 12:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 278 with D4 performance
They updated the harness/ battery switch panel in something like 2008. The owners manual that came with the 2009 boat had the schematics for the earlier models. No schematics of the updated hardware are available to owners or dealers (at least the case for my dealer)..

When I got the boat, with new batteries, in early 2013 the forward bilge oump was always running ( albeit at low speed) plus the interior courtesy lights were always on, albeit also on a reduced intensity. I started to investigate before it was launched, only to find the wiring was not the same as in the manual. Sure, some was but there were some additional cables and different colours. The engine battery went flat every couple of days.

First; the cable marked "engine battery" was actually the systems cable! Easily sorted; so it was the systems battery that was going flat.

I mapped all the circuity out and found out a few things on the way;

Most battery cables were very long, some more than 3 X the required length, coiled up making it very tight to work on the master switch The charger fuses were actually behind the battery switch panel, rather inaccesable.

A link cable on the engine master switch was a far narrower diameterthan the battery cables ( used to assist the start battery from the systems battery, if it is flat)

The stereo had no sound, unless the engine battery switch was set to "on" ( I found a 70A circuit breaker for the amplifier lying loode in the engine compartment, not fixed to anything, with exposed connection studs)

The real killer though; the forward bilge wiring in the factory harness was wrong; it could never have worked as intended.

Result: the forward bilge flooded with rainwater. Low down in the forward bilge there is a 12 pin multiconnector ( I think it was 11 on earlier boats). That got soaking wet, circuits were getting power from the permanent live supply to the pump when they shouldn't have done. As well as running the bilge pump ( @reduced voltage) and courtesy lights ( @ reduced voltage) electrolysis was occurring and eventualyl some of the pins corroded away). The dealers attempt to fix it was to install a new pump and switch, connected to the original harness using a block connector ( which had also corroded !)

I corrected the bilge pump wiring error. I replaced that 12 pin connector with adhesive lined heat shrink crimps and extended the wiring to new waterproof connector blocks below the steps, well above any possible water level. I had at the same time to replumb the freshwater pump as it was plumbed in back to front ( the arrow on the body clearly meant nothing to whoever installed it !

I have installed a 1-2-both-off battery switch for the systems batteries that are now on the starboard side in a modified locker. A new heavy cable connects it to the original main battery / breaker switch panel.

I have shortened battery cables to appropriate lengths.

The bilge pumps are supplied from the input terminals of the new battery switch, using diodes so both systems batteries are connected. Same for the ACP system.

The amplifier breaker is now connected to the systems battery switch output terminal. not the engine one. Fixed next to the new battery switch. Again. with shortened cables.

It all works rather well now !
Author:  radiocontester [ Thu Jul 28, 2016 1:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 278 with D4 performance
Thanks for the detailed write-up Graham!
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