www.iFourWinns.com

Hi Guys,

In efforts to do something actually unique, I am going to be installing a Mac Mini and LCD Panel into my 248V. Both run on AC, and although people do sell a DC conversion kit for the Mac Mini, I am going to run it off an inverter because my display needs AC anyway. The total setup should draw about 300W.

My plan is to hardwire an inverter hopefully inside the mid-cabin right side foot locker, mount the display on the wall to the right of the bathroom (like the new vista has) and cut a nice hole to the left of the stair to hold the mini. I need to be able to access the front of the mini for inserting DVDs and so the cool little remote can reach the front IR sensor on the mini.

The only problem I anticipate, besides destroying the boat, is finding a way to hardwire the inverter to the switched DC power somewhere. I thought about running the wires through the wall near the helm so that they actually attach to the helm cigarette lighter socket since I never use that socket anyway. I also thought about running the wires under the steps and near the fuse panel somewhere since there must be a DC feed in there for the other cigarette lighter socket that comes out behind the sink.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Note: I do not want to run the inverter directly to a battery because I know I will leave it on and kill the battery eventually.

Inverters generate a fair bit of heat, you cannot put one in a place that does not have enough ventilation.

If any of your devices can be powered by DC (not just 12vdc) you may instead want to look into getting a DC-DC converter to provide the necessary voltage. It'll be a lot more efficient that going from 12vdc to 110vac back to whatever DC the unit needs. They often sell these for devices as car or airplane adapter. I use two with my laptops and they're much more efficient that using the AC adapters through an inverter.

Then there's the wiring, those are high drain devices, you may not be able to power them through existing wiring. You need not worry about 'leaving them on' any more than other devices. They'd be wired after the battery switches anyway. You'd NEVER wire accessories like this directly to the batteries anyway. I would specifically plan NOT to tie into the helm's accessory outlet. The wire TO that outlet is designed to support only that load and perhaps more importantly the distance. Voltage drops over distance so adding more to the outlet may result in not enough voltage getting to the devices. Digital devices are notorious for being susceptible to low voltage.

Here's what I'd do, find DC-DC power supplies for them. Then run the appropriately heavy gauge wire directly from the back of the breaker panel. Which circuit you tie into is a matter of debate. I've got my gear using the breaker labeled 'overboard discharge' as I don't even have an overboard macerator option on the boat. Thus it's a 'free' circuit. You might find something similar, or one that doesn't have any other significant loads on it. And when you connect the wires MAKE SURE to use marine-grade terminal RINGS. The rings make sure the wire won't fall off the post if/when the boat vibration causes it to loosen. The marine connectors are a bit better at staving off corrosion. Oh, and get wire rated for marine use. It's tinned internally to further resist corrosion. Do not use household or automotive grade wire. If you want a good source for cheap marine wire I've had good luck with skycraftsurplus.com for my needs.

_________________
-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Yeah, I was concerned about the heat. I am going to use a 400W inverter and during the testing, I will determine how much heat it generates. The 400W versions usually come with a cigarette lighter plug so I figured the draw would not overload existing wiring, but then again, I know very little about electrical capacities. I am hoping one of these electrical systems gurus will chime in on this thread.

I will be putting on a coat of bottom paint today and maybe running some tests tonight.

Thanks for the advice guys. I finally made it to the boat today and spent the entire day mounting a 19" Samsung LCD in front of the anchor locker where the mirror used to be. Built custom wood mount. Ran monitor cable, AC power plug and audio feed behind the forward most panel (lining the anchor locker), around and on to the port forward shelf. Next, built a stand for the mac-mini and used industrial velcro all over the place to hold everything and provide some dampening effect. Ran the AC power cable from the mac-mini and television around the back and under the port shelf. Under the shelf, I mounted a surge protector (white) and ran the AC power cable from the surge protector along the bottom of the shelf. From there, I ran the cord under the microwave, and down to the GFI outllet behind the sink.

It works really well, I have a bunch of movies ripped to the mac-mini and there is wi-fi where my boat stays docked, so it will constantly download new TV shows, etc., while I am docked and powered up. I have shore power at my dock so this won't be a problem.

The problem is still a power inverter. I bought two today just to see how they worked. The first was a black&decker 400W I got at Walmart. It was $35 and not even worth that. The design is terrible and it feels really cheap. It could only power the TV OR the computer, not both. It would whine out of control then shutoff because it is too weak. I then tried the same model in the 750w version. It worked well, but the frickin thing is so loud it is unusable. There are two little fans in the Black&Decker inverters and they run regardless of heat or load. So annoying.

So guys,

I need a permanent inverter solution. Now that I have everything perfect, I just need to bring a powerful enough inverter to the galley. I would like to mount it to the bottom of the shelf, under the cabinet/microwave if that would work. Have no clue how to run enough juice to power say a 1000W inverter to that location. If any gurus would like to suggest how I would specifically get power to that location, the wiring path and the recommend gauge, that would be amazing. I am asking for a lot here, but I promise to post pictures when it is final. Despite my lack of electrical knowledge, my finish work is turning out perfect so far.


Jay

Hmmm, why not use DC-DC conversion instead of inverters? Most devices these days take DC power anyway, or at least those are the kind you should seek for use on a boat. Using an inverter wastes power as it converts from DC to AC (and then back into DC within the devices anyway).

What's the wattage on the devices? Start with that as your baseline minimum power requirements.

Personally, I wouldn't try bodging up something without using marine-rated gear. I'd be more inclined to put an inverter in the engine room and run AC wire to the necessary location. But DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT put anything other than a marine rated, ignition protected inverter in the engine room. Gas fumes go boom.

_________________
-Bill Kearney, 2005 348 Vista

Hey Jay,

Sounds pretty damn cool!!!! I'd love to see some pics of that when you have a chance!

Walter

_________________
Walter

2003 248 Vista - VP 5.0 GXi
2009 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L 4x4