www.iFourWinns.com

Good morning, could someone take a look at these pics and let me know if the windlass looks like its setup correctly? The rope bunches at the anchor pawl when the anchor is lowered and snags as its being raised. I'm thinking something is wrong at the anchor chain pawl? The rope is wider than the slit in the anchor pawl as well? Any ideas - appreciate the input!

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2008 278 Vista | 8.1 Gi Volve Penta
Mark II C Touring Zodiac w/9hp outboard

This must be an aftermarket addition as it not like mine. The intent of the piece the rope and chain go under is to catch in the chain links if the anchor drops. As you lower the anchor, you use your foot to keep the piece from catching the chain. In this installation, the piece is rotated 180 degrees. But with the rope and chain at this angle, I don't think that will work.

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2010 Vista 338 Volvo Penta
2005 Yamaha Wave Runner FX HO

2005 SeaRay 280 SunDancer
2001 SeaRay 245 Weekender

Isn't that for holding the chain in place while driving so it doesn't slip off the windlass? It's different from mine but on my previous boat without a windlass I would take that off when lowering and raising the anchor. The guide at the end of the pulpit should be enough but I can't see from the pictures.

I also tie a little piece of line to the anchor and tie it to a cleat when it's fully up to keep it from bouncing around. Plus a safety it doesn't lower while driving. Last thing you want do is run over your own anchor and mess everything up.

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--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson

The chain stopper just ahead of the windlass is for the lower profile vertical shaft windlass. The toggle part of the chain stopper would also be rotated 180 degrees so the slot is toward the windlass and would engage the chain if/when the windlass slipped and allowed the anchor to be deployed. I would recommend removing the toggle and pin, and attaching a short cable and clip somewhere on the bow to clip into the chain to prevent an unplanned deployment. Here is a link to a windlass installation with photos that might help explain. http://boat-project.com/mech/proj-14c.htm

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Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

Ah thank you! Removing it and using a line to secure it will definitely solve my problem! No wonder I was having snagging issues, its on backwards and only there to prevent an unplanned deployment! I appreciate your help!! Thank you.

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2008 278 Vista | 8.1 Gi Volve Penta
Mark II C Touring Zodiac w/9hp outboard

As you look at your second photo, the gypsy wheel that grabs the chain or rope has a square hole for a wrench/handle. You might need to use the wrench to tighten this occasionally. This sets how tight the "friction" or "slip clutch" is. Generally these windlasses do not allow the anchor to deploy unexpectedly, if everything is correct. It can be set pretty tight (about as tight as you can get it with the wrench). The chain-stopper you have or a safety cable are an extra means to prevent unwanted deployment. This does mean that someone needs to go to the bow to engage or disengage any type of safety measure, or to cleat the anchor rode if you are remaining at anchor for a while or in adverse conditions. Many Windlass manufacturers do not recommend using just the windlass brake to prevent deploying more anchor rode.

_________________
Surface Interval: A scuba diving term for that time between dives to relax and prepare for life's next great adventure.

Current boat: '02 FW 268 Vista
Previous boat: '95 FW 190 Horizon

I would only remove it when you are deploying the anchor. As surface interval stated you will have to manually go to the bow. There should always be a secondary device preventing an accidentally deploy so no matter what you will have to go to the bow. You never know if someone leans on the switch at the helm while you are driving.
The line I suggested was to keep it taught but if you already have a wire clip and the windlass doesn't slip then it's unnecesary.
I like 2 forms of securing besides the windlass. Nasty weather can move things around without your notice.

_________________
--2002 3880 Regal Flybridge | Twin Merc 8.1HO **Seven**
--2003 AB 13 VST Console Inflatable | Tohatsu 40hp TLDI **Phish'n ski**
--310 Mercury Inflatable | 1982 9.9 Johnson